Learn exactly what you need for turkey hunting gear as a beginner so you can get out in the woods and start having success. Over 15 years of trial and error with turkey hunting gear has enabled me to dial in what works. In this post, I share what I believe is the best turkey hunting gear for beginners based on my experience.
You don’t need much gear to get started turkey hunting. A shotgun and some camo will get you started. However, the gear in this post will help increase your odds of success and make you more comfortable in the process.
Table of Contents
The Turkey Hunting Essentials
Turkey Hunting Shotgun
You’re definitely going to need a shotgun. For beginners, I would recommend anything between a 20 ga to a 12 ga shotgun. Pump-action shotguns will generally be the lowest price. Personally, I use a Benelli Supernova pump shotgun which is a little bit more expensive than the Nova but, in my opinion, it is worth the money. I’ve been using mine for over 10 years, you can check out the review of my Benelli SuperNova here if you’re interested.
Turkey Hunting Ammo
I suggest getting #6 shells of the heaviest ammo you can find, ideally lead or tungsten. This means you will get a lot of BBs on target with good knockdown energy. Many small heavy BBs are what you’re looking for, it doesn’t matter that they travel at a slower velocity. A slower velocity is better for keeping your pattern tighter at longer distances too. Remember, you’re shooting at the head and neck of the turkey, it doesn’t take much to be lethal so the more BBs you have the better odds one of those BBs will hit lethally. 2-3/4 and 3-inch shells will work just fine but you will have to let turkeys get closer than if you’re using 3.5-inch shells.
Steel #4 would not be ideal because those are lightweight large-diameter bullets, which means fewer BBs per shell with less knockdown power.
Hunting License
A hunting license is a requirement for hunting turkeys. This doesn’t really count as gear but…don’t forget your hunting license! You can thank me later.
Turkey Hunting Clothes
Turkeys have incredible eyesight, so buying camo clothes would be worth your while. I would recommend head-to-toe camo, especially if you won’t have a ground blind.
Camo Ball-Cap
Ball caps are essential pieces of gear, they provide camouflage, warmth, and protection from the sun, insects, and branches. If you’re hunting in a ground.
Camo Neck Buff/Gaiter Facemask
Buffs are versatile and can be worn in many different ways. I use mine as a facemask and for protection from the sun and insects. Additionally, turkeys have incredible eyesight, so having a facemask will help you from being detected.
Touchscreen Camo Gloves
Beginners often overlook the importance of gloves because they feel like they don’t need them. However, your hands are the most noticeable part of your body because of their excessive movement. Concealing your hands will go a long way to remain undetected.
Touchscreen gloves are awesome for turkey hunting because I’m often use my Phone GPS to navigate and take waypoints. I’m also using my phone when the hunting is slow. Having gloves that are touchscreen enabled will keep my gloves on my hands so I’m not moving them as much when taking them on and off to use my phone, thus keeping turkeys from spotting the extra movement.
Camo Moisture-Wicking Long-sleeve
I always wear a lightweight moisture-wicking baselayer because in spring temps can get pretty warm in the afternoon. Being able to wick sweat during the hotter periods of the day will help you stay comfortable and remain in the woods longer.
Camo Polyester Fleece Hoodie
The early mornings can be pretty chilly, I always wear at least a hoodie, and sometimes even a bigger jacket. As the day progresses I can take off what I don’t need. But I’m usually quite comfortable with Rynoskin Total, a long-sleeve shirt, and a hoodie all day. This camo pattern mimics the bark of a tree. It is suggested to break-up your outline when turkey hunting by putting your back against a tree.
Lightweight and Quiet Camo Pants
Lightweight and quiet pants are essential for turkey hunting. You don’t want to be weighed down and make a bunch of clothing noise when turkey hunting. I like these pants because they address all of these concerns and they have some green color in them. I like the green because, in May, vegetation is just started to become green.
These pants will work for hunting out of a hunting blind as well because turkeys won’t be able to see past your waist, so it is okay that they aren’t black like the inside of a hunting blind.
Rubber Turkey Hunting Boots
I am a huge fan of knee-high rubber boots. I wear them all season long. My favorites for turkey hunting are the Lacrosse Grange boots and the GumLeaf Field Wellys. They’re lightweight and comfortable and are great for the mucky spring turkey season. If you want to know more about why I like these boots so much you can check out my YouTube video, both boots are included in the review:
Black Turkey Hunting Clothes For Ground Blind Use
If you’re hunting from a ground blind, I would suggest black clothing to blend into the inside of the ground blind better. You don’t need to wear black from head to toe, just a shirt, facemask, gloves, and a hat.
Turkey Hunting Decoys for Beginners
Although decoy prices range, I suggest buying a good pair that will last and look great over the long term. My dad and I used a decoy called “wrinkled crap” for a few years. It came out of the box deformed, and every year it would become more distorted from packing it away for the season and from the plastic heating and cooling after hunts.
Avoid buying ‘wrinkled crap’ decoys so you don’t end up trying to make it look halfway decent by sticking a bunch of sticks in it in the dark while turkeys are getting out of their roost all around you. I’ve linked some of the better decoys worth the money below.
Different decoy setups are used in different situations to get the gobblers to do what you want. Turkeys are territorial and lustful, you can use decoys to play on these weaknesses. Try to visualize and anticipate what direction gobblers will approach decoys.
Toms will often hang back from hen decoys 15-20 yards as they get a read on the situation. But they will have less of a problem approaching another male decoy. I often place my hens off to the side of my blind and the male decoys close to where I want to shoot but only about 10 yards away. This makes the gobblers cross in front of me so I often create shots 20 yards and under. My favorite setup is one jake and one hen decoy.
Turkey Hunting Decoy Setups
Tom Turkey Hunting Decoy
A tom turkey in strut when placed next to a hen decoy is used to get another dominant tom fired up and aggressive so that he will want to attack the decoy, thus bringing the bird into shooting range. Jakes and less dominant toms will often be scared of a tom decoy so keep that in mind.
Jake Turkey Hunting Decoy
A jake turkey that is semi-puffed up with a hen decoy will make a tom want to put the jake in its place by letting him know who’s boss. This will make the tom want to come in and kick the jake away from the hens so he can have them to himself. Additionally, other jakes will feel comfortable coming to join this jake. Jake decoys can bring in any age male turkey.
Hen Turkey Hunting Decoy
A hen is used as an attractor for toms and jakes. They can be used alone or with other male decoys. When placed with male decoys, a jealously and territorial trigger button will be pushed within male birds making them want to come into the decoys. Often just one or two hen decoys with no male decoys will work well too but won’t trigger as aggressive of an approach. Males will often come in slower but more calmly.
Best Turkey Hunting Calls For Beginners
You don’t need to buy all of these different types of calls. I would suggest just buying one and getting good with it.
Turkey Hunting Slate Call
I prefer the slate call and use it more than any other call. I feel like I get a very realistic result from them. The slate call is great for soft to medium volumes. Often there is no need to call loud because they will sound unrealistic to turkeys anyway. The downside to this call is it can be tough once turkeys get close because you need to use both hands to use it. I will often use my voice if I need to use my hands.
Turkey Hunting Mouth Call
A mouth call can be beneficial for those who aren’t hunting from a blind. Using a slate call in these situations can get you seen by turkeys because of the movement. A mouth call is the most discrete call.
A mouth call is the most versatile because you can have your hands on your gun and call at the same time. It can produce quiet and loud volumes. I recommend beginners to get mouth calls to practice with but to also have another call at the ready while you’re learning because it can take time to learn.
Turkey Hunting Box Call
A box call is a great tool for locating gobblers that are far away in the distance because the box calls are generally able to produce the loudest yelps of any type of call besides an electronic call. It also can call quietly, but it does not seem to sound as realistic to me when making quiet calls compared to the slate. The clucking and purring is pretty okay, but the slate does better for these quieter calls.
Versatile Turkey Hunting Box Call For Beginners
This is another style of box call and is one that I would recommend for beginners. It is not just a box call, but it also has a built-in second call for purring, clucking, and cutting (see wooden rod). This is a very versatile call and is easy to learn, this is my most highly recommended call for beginner turkey hunters.
Electronic Game Caller With Programmable Turkey Calls
An electronic game call, where legal, can be an awesome piece of turkey hunting gear for a beginner because it takes all of the guesswork out of calling turkeys. These calls come with a function that lets you download new sounds, and download custom sounds so that they can be used for any type of hunting. Pro Tip: You can also strategically place these calls to trick turkeys into shooting range by placing the calls 20 yards or so behind you, drawing turkeys in closer.
Best Turkey Hunting Gear For Beginners (Recommended Gear)
Pop-Up Blind For Turkey Hunting
For whatever reason, turkeys are just not phased by ground blinds. It’s always best practice to conceal them into the environment as much as possible but from what I’ve experienced, you don’t need much. You can also get away with a lot of movement within a blind that you otherwise could not. Although heavy, it’s worth its weight in gold. I’m almost always hunting out of a ground blind.
I highly recommend a ground blind for beginners because it will increase your success by concealing movement, be more comfortable, and keep bugs away. In my experience, new hunters move around way too much without a ground blind. They don’t know that they are moving around too much because they don’t have much experience. A blind will allow new hunters to move around, allowing for a more enjoyable hunt, and without blowing their opportunity at shooting a turkey.
The blind below is the Ameristep Care Taker Ground Blind (100$) which offers enough room for two hunters. It has adjustable shooting windows with removable mesh screening. It’s very easy to put up and to take down. It’s completely blacked-out on the inside, so hunters stay out of sight.
My favorite aspect of this blind is how easy it is to travel with because it comes in a carrying case similar to that of a lawn chair. Also, it’s very easy to set up because it pops-up in sections similar to an umbrella.
Lawn chairs are the most affordable and comfortable chairs for ground blinds that I’ve been able to find. They’re so comfortable that when I start to get bored after the morning excitement, I’ll often doze off in hopes to be woken up by a gobble (this has happened many times). This is my recommended chair of choice for beginner turkey hunters.
Another benefit is how easily lawn chairs can be transported. They fold up and can be put into a small bag that you can carry over your shoulder. This is something to consider when you’re carrying a lot of gear to your spot. The downside is they aren’t as maneuverable as some other ground blind chairs, but most are more expensive than lawn chairs.
Adjustable, Swiveling Ground Blind Chair
All turkey hunters will appreciate a fully adjustable and swiveling blind chair. The legs of this chair adjust which allows for a perfectly leveled sit. This is key for maximum comfort. Additionally, the chair swivels 360º so that you can shoot out of any window of a blind easily at the approaching turkeys. A comfortable chair is key for success because when you’re comfortable you can last longer in the blind.
Rynoskin Total Clothing: Chemical-Free Insect Protection
Ticks and insects are at full-force during spring turkey seasons. I’m a big advocate of Rynoskin Total, I wear it religiously to protect me from mostly ticks but also to help with minimizing mosquito bites and bites from other insects. Because of how bad ticks and other bugs are in Spring, I honestly don’t go turkey hunting or in the woods unless I’m wearing the stuff.
I don’t like spraying myself with harmful chemicals. Rynoskin Total is a chemical-free breathable baselayer that helps prevent bugs from penetrating the tight mesh. But make sure you read my full review before you buy it because I developed a regimen that I follow to help maximize the effectiveness of the gear. You can check the price on Amazon.
Original Rynoskin (camo) & Rynosking Total (Black and Green)
Binoculars For Turkey Hunting
I did a YouTube video on the 14 best value binoculars for hunters. I bought these binoculars and field-tested and compared them all. To sum the video up, I found that the Athlon Midas binoculars were the best for the money. They would make excellent turkey hunting binoculars.
Some of the hunting binoculars tested in my YouTube review
Binocular Harness
A binocular harness wraps around the torso and keeps the binoculars at chest level so hunters can be hands-free when hunting. When turkey hunters need their binoculars, they will be able to get to them quickly and effortlessly. Binoculars are only needed periodically, but quick access can make a difference between identifying a gobbler in time to get a shot off or not before he disappears. Being able to store binoculars in an easily accessible place makes the process seamless when they are needed.
Rangefinder
Rangefinders are very versatile and can be used for much more than just turkey hunting. However, they are one of the best pieces of gear a turkey hunter can own whether a beginner or not. It can be very hard to judge the distance of a turkey, especially in a big field with no depth perception. A rangefinder is a staple in my turkey hunting arsenal.
This Vortex rangefinder below has excellent reviews. Vortex is a leading manufacturer of high-quality glass (binoculars, spotting scopes, rangefinders) and has unbeatable lifetime warranties. I also created an article on the best rangefinders so you can check that out if you want help narrowing down options.
Turkey Locator Call – Crow Call
When turkeys just don’t seem to be cooperating and you can’t get one to gobble, a crow call can sometimes get a turkey to ‘shock-gobble’. This can be a game-changer for a particular hunt. This isn’t an item that a lot of turkey hunters would think of because it isn’t used often but it’s one of those items that can pay off when it’s needed and is nice to have when hunting. As a beginner turkey hunter, this wouldn’t be my first purchase but it’s a good tool to keep in mind.
Choke Tubes
Choke tubs are an important tool when turkey hunting to maximize a shotgun’s range. When turkey hunting it is best to use a full or extra full choke, I normally use a full choke. This keeps your pellet pattern tight for long-range shots.
However, when your shotgun is shooting very tight patterns you need to make sure it is accurate at close range because it’s much easier to miss a target a close range if your pattern is very tight. A lot of turkey hunters use sights (red dots, scopes) on their shotguns to sight in their shotgun so their pattern is centered at close and long range.
Turkey hunting choke tubes are screwed into shotgun barrels to increase shot-pattern density for longer and more lethal shots on turkeys.
Seat Cushion
If you’re not going to be hunting from a blind you’re going to want something comfy to sit on or you’ll be moving around way too much. I suggest something with padding for your butt and your back otherwise you’ll get sore faster. Some turkey hunting vests have this as a built-in feature.
Turkey Hunting Vest
The turkey hunting vest may be the most important peice of gear other than your shotgun, lciense, and ammo. You’ll be carrying a lot of gear. For example; shells, calls, sandwiches, water, bug spray, turkey decoy attachments, and other odds and ends. It’s very helpful for getting from Point A to Point B while keeping your hands as free as possible. I always wear my vest or at least bring it with me so that I know I have everything I need when I’m out hunting. Having a lot of pockets is key, I also like having a lot of inside pockets. Try to get one that has back and seat cushions built-in so you don’t have to make a separate purchase.
Sitka Tool Belt
The Sitka Tool Belt is a helpful waist pack for turkey hunters especially if they prefer not to to wear a turkey vest. I did a hands-on review of the Sitka Tool Belt and the biggest takeaway is how well laid out it is for organization and accessibility. I would recommend the green camo version for spring turkey hunting because it will blend in better.
Sitka has also come out with the Turkey Tool Belt, designed specifically for turkey hunting. It has dedicated pockets specifically for turkey hunting gear. If it’s anything like the regular Sitka Tool Belt it will be a well-thought-out product but I have not got my hands on that model.
Final Thoughts
The best turkey hunting gear for beginners will be different depending on the individual, based on how you want to hunt turkeys (stalking, hunting from a blind, still hunting…etc). But to get out there and have a successful turkey hunt, you don’t need much. In fact, the less you have often challenges you to think critically and develop your turkey hunting and woodsmanship skills. That being said, spending a little money on gear can make for a more relaxed and comfortable hunt, so it is all about how you want to design your hunt.
These are my best tips for beginners after 20+ years of turkey hunting trial and error. I’ve made many mistakes turkey hunting over the years which I’ve learned from. These tips will help you avoid the newbie mistakes I made while learning to turkey hunt so you can improve your success this hunting season. These are the turkey hunting tips I wish I had when I started.
This post contains Amazon and other affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my link, at no extra cost to you. Of course, you are not obligated to use my links, but it does help fund these posts in hopes of bringing more value to you!
Table of Contents
Tip 1. Gear Up – Turkey Hunting Gear for Beginners
First things first. If you’re going to turkey hunt you’re going to need some essential gear. But don’t be discouraged, you don’t need much to get started. I’ve written a more in-depth article on turkey hunting gear for beginners if you want more detailed information.
The Necessities:
Hunting License
Shotgun & Ammo
Camouflage Clothing
Other Recommended Gear:
Turkey Decoys
Turkey Call
Pop-Up Hunting Blind (not necessary, but highly recommended)
Tip 2. Pattern Your Shotgun
Choke-Tubes
The first step in patterning your shotgun is determining whether you have interchangeable choke-tubes. Having a shotgun with interchangeable choke tubes is a big benefit for turkey hunters because you can use a full-choke to keep your shot-pattern dense. This allows you to make longer shots. If you don’t have a full choke don’t worry, you can still use your shotgun to hunt turkeys, you just need to make sure the turkeys are closer when you take a shot.
Choke Tubes For Turkey Hunting
Turkey Hunting Ammo
I would buy a few different boxes of turkey ammo to test out during the patterning process. Not all ammo will shoot the same out of your gun, you’ll want to use the ammo that shoots more accurately by having most of the pellets hit where you’re aiming. I would use shotgun shell size #4 or #6. But for sure #6 when using Heavi-Shot because it’s plenty lethal at further distances but you’ll get more pellets to fill in the gaps of your shotgun pattern.
How Far Can You Shoot A Turkey?
The bigger the ammo, the further you can shoot. Below are the maximum distances I recommend shooting a turkey with different-sized turkey ammo using Hevi-Shot (tungsten ammo).
12 GA 3.5″ Shells – 50 Yards
12-GA 3″ Shells – 45 Yards
12-GA 2.75″ Shells – 35 Yards
20-GA 3″ Shells – 35 Yards
20-GA 2.75″ Shells – 30 Yards
These are very heavy bullets, making them excellent for knockdown power and penetration on turkeys at long distances.
If you’re going to be shooting turkeys at these maximum ranges it is suggested to use good ammo. I recommend Hevi-Shot because it is even heavier than lead, and will put a turkey down at these distances more effectively. I would specifically recommend Hevi-Shot Magnum Blend for shots at these maximum range applications. They are expensive, but you should only need one to get get the job done so they should last many seasons. If you can’t afford it, regular lead ammo will work but make sure turkeys are 5 yards closer than the recommendations above.
Turkey Targets
Buy a few targetsand set them out at the maximum range you plan to shoot based on the yardages above. Shoot at these targets to see which ammo patterns best for your shotgun. You’ll want to choose the ammo that has the most pellets in a small area. You may notice that the majority of your shot is hitting slightly off-center. This is important information letting you know you may need to compensate for this by aiming slightly off-target. You can also purchase a red-dot sight or scope for your shotgun. This will allow you to move your point of aim to where your pellets are hitting.
Tip 3. Let Them Get Closer Than You’d Think
If a turkey is coming in, don’t jump the gun (no pun intended) and shoot right when the turkey enters what you think is the edge of gun range. This greatly increases the odds of wounding or missing a turkey.
Turkey Hunting Tips For Beginners – Let Them Get Closer Than You’d Think
Let the turkey come in close for a quick ethical kill. A good rule of thumb is if they’re still coming in, let them keep coming until it is unquestionable. It is an even better idea to have a rangefinder on you to confirm distances. If you don’t have one, you can read my article on the Best Rangefinders For Hunting.
Although rangefinders aren’t absolutely necessary, I highly suggest them for beginner turkey hunters. It can be very hard to judge the distance of a turkey, especially in a big field with no depth perception.
Additionally, with the excitement, it’s easy to pull the trigger too soon. A rangefinder is a staple in my turkey hunting arsenal.
Leupold RX-1400i TBR/W – Best Hunting Rangefinder For The Money
I can’t express how important scouting is for turkey hunting success, and frankly, it’s not that hard to do since turkey gobbles are easily heard and turkeys are quite visible. Especially in fields just before hunting season before hunting pressure starts. Scouting for turkeys is often an overlooked aspect of turkey hunting, you will be ahead of the game if you do some scouting.
Pre-Season Turkey Scouting
Pre-season scouting is essential for early success. You’ll want to put a tag on a turkey as soon as possible because as the season progresses turkeys become warier and will be harder to see, call, hear, and find.
Scouting for Turkey Roosting Areas
In order to find roosts, it is best to drive around areas where turkeys are known to hang out and listen 30-min before daylight while they gobble before getting out of the trees. This can also be done in the evening right at sunset but in my experience, it is not as effective because turkeys don’t gobble for as long so it can be hard to check multiple places in the same scouting session.
Another tip is to drive around early morning and about an hour/hour-half before sunset and find the turkeys that are making their way back to their roosts. If you see turkeys in fields at these times you can be their roosts will not be far away. Mark these locations on your GPS and come back to find where exactly they are roosting.
Tip 5. Hunt Multiple Spots for Turkeys
My favorite tactic is to find a handful of roosts before the season starts so that you can hunt multiple areas during the first week of turkey hunting. Having multiple areas in your back pocket is very helpful. Many times you’ll find out that one spot you were planning to hunt gets too much hunting pressure. These areas can be frustrating to hunt and makes hunting harder. By having different places to hunt you are able to stay in better hunting situations, increasing turkey hunting success.
Tip 6. Hunt Turkeys Close To The Roost – But Not Too Close
After you’ve located a few roosting areas, watch where these birds naturally want to travel in the mornings when they get down out of the roost. When you hunt, position yourself between the roosting turkeys and where they naturally want to go to intercept them.
Take advantage of their natural patterns. Turkeys will often use the same travel corridors when getting down out of their trees because they will likely be heading to the same morning food source each day. Just make sure you don’t get too close to their roost because they may fly out of range when getting out of the trees in the morning. I like to be about 75 yards from the roost in the direction of travel.
Tip 7. Hunt All Day
Hunting all day is an excellent way to put the odds in your favor. You May think there are no turkeys are around or that they have moved on after the morning excitement, but if you’re in an area that turkeys frequent chances are you will see some action.
Keep your eyes peeled, they can come into the decoys silent. Oftentimes though, once a gobbler gets within a 20-yard ‘bubble’ they can’t help themselves and will gobble, often startling you. These situations really get the heart pumping as they are least expected but if you stick it out will happen more often than you think.
Tip 8. Don’t Lose Hope If They’re Not Gobbling
Morning in the turkey woods is often exciting, but sometimes they just won’t gobble. Or they will stop gobbling altogether once they leave their roost. These birds may be over-hunted and are weary, or the weather may not be right for them to be gobbling. You may think there isn’t a turkey for miles, but don’t lose hope. Just because you don’t hear them gobbling doesn’t mean they haven’t seen your decoys and are coming in. Give them time and your patience may be rewarded.
Tip 9. Be Patient
I’ve eluded to this in many of the other tips but patience is key to turkey hunting success. Morning in the turkey woods is often exciting, the turkeys are often gobbling and the anticipation of success is high. But if the gobblers don’t do what you were hoping then hope can die quickly. But don’t give up, be patient birds are usually still nearby you just have to wait for them to make their rounds. A good time to be hunting is when they’re done with their breakfast and are looking to get a little frisky. The toms will be out looking for hens at this time.
Tip 10. Bring Comfortable Gear
I started seeing more success turkey hunting success when I started bringing a camo pop-up blind and comfortable lawn chair. This enabled me to move around a lot and not be seen because the blind was enclosed. It also gave me the comfort of staying in the bling for hours longer than just sitting against a tree with a cushion. It also helps keep you warmer and dryer on windy or rainy days, not to mention keep the mosquitos away which is worth every penny in my opinion. Bring a good book, or binge-listen to podcasts or audiobooks, whatever it takes to stay longer. If you’re patient in an area where turkeys frequent, you will eventually have success.
All beginner turkey hunters will appreciate a fully adjustable and swiveling blind chair which is probably the superior option for hunting in a blind. That said, I prefer a regular lawn chair when using a shotgun. If you’re turkey hunting with a bow though, make sure you get a chair without arms because it will get in the way of pulling your bow back.
The pop-up blind I use is the Ameristep Care Taker Ground Blind which offers enough room for two hunters. It has adjustable shooting windows with removable mesh screening. It’s very easy to put up and to take down. It’s completely blacked out on the inside, so hunters stay out of sight. My favorite aspect of this blind is how easy it is to travel with because it comes in a carrying case similar to that of a lawn chair. Also, it’s very easy to set up because it pops up in sections similar to an umbrella. I’ve linked it below if you’re interested.
Blinds Are Effective Pieces Of Turkey Hunting Gear Especially For Beginners
Tip 11. Dealing with Insects
I use Rynoskin to deal with ticks and mosquitos during turkey season. It is a chemical-free baselayer that keeps ticks from getting to your skin and helps reduce the number of bites from mosquitos. If this sounds like something you’d be interested in, you can check out my Rynoskin review. There is a certain way to use it to its full potential which I go over in that post.
Since turkeys have a poor sense of smell you can also bring bug spray or a Thermacell to keep the mosquitos away. Keeping bugs at bay is important for turkey hunting because turkeys have very good eyesight, so swatting at mosquitoes is something turkeys will see from a long distance.
Tip 12. Turkey Hunting Weather
Sunny Days are Best
Sunny days are the best days to be turkey hunting especially if the couple days prior were rainy and windy. The suppressed gobbling activity on poor weather days gets gobblers antsy and ready to gobble on nice days.
Turkey Hunting in the Rain
Turkeys are on the move in the rain and you can have great luck on rainy days. However, you will likely not hear any gobbling and you should not call much yourself. Your best bet is to set a decoy out in a highly visible spot and just wait.
Tip 13. Take The First Week Off From Work
If you’re serious about bagging a turkey as a beginner there is no better way than to spend most of your time hunting during the first week. Hunting pressure will be in full effect before long and you’ll want to take advantage of non-pressured birds for as long as possible.
I’ve found that after the first week, birds become smart to hunters and are harder to kill. If you spend most of your time hunting when turkeys are less call-shy and timid, you’ll have better luck. Plus it will be more fun because turkeys will be more apt to be gobbling their heads off.
Tip 14. Travel To Less Pressured Areas
If the season progresses and you still don’t have your turkey, start scouting new areas. Specifically, areas that might be overlooked or that don’t have much hunting pressure. These can be great late-season honey holes. Sometimes you just have to give up on the turkeys you’ve been hunting to find easier turkeys to hunt.
Tip 15. Don’t Call Too Much
Beginners often call way too much because they love getting gobblers to call back to them, who doesn’t?! I highly suggest resisting this urge, there is a fine line here, so don’t overdo it. When you call too much, it will start to seem unnatural and the gobbler may lose interest. Pay attention to how often and how loud real hen turkeys call and try to mimic that. You’ll notice they’re not all that loud and that they don’t call very much.
Tip 16. Play Hard To Get
Once I have a gobbler fired up and talking back to me after every call I make. He will often stay out of range because he is trying to get the hen (my decoy) to come to him. To counter this, I will stop calling as often and pretend to lose interest.
Turkey Hunting Tips For Beginners- This Tom kept gobbling but would stay out of range. I had to play hard to get to get him in the decoys.
I do this by making the gobbler call 2-3 times before I respond with some light yelps. Often, he will get frustrated that you’re losing interest and will often make their way to your decoys. Playing hard to get pays off big time. This process can take hours so don’t overdo the calling.
Tip 17. Let The Gobbler Go
There are a couple of tips you can implement if you find yourself struggling to pull a gobbler in that sounds fired up and interested. First, you should implement “Don’t Overcall” and then “Play Hard To Get”. The next step is to just let them go. If a gobbler just won’t come in don’t try to force it by calling more. This will just make things worse and he will figure out that your decoys aren’t the real deal.
Very often, especially for mature birds, just let them go. Toms get mad when they can’t convince you to come to them. They will keep you in the back of their minds while they go about their business. Often, after they’ve had some breakfast they will come back to see if you’re still around. They often come in silent, but they will be more apt to come right in because they are impatient and tired of waiting. Be ready!
Tip 18. Blind Call Sparingly
Blind calling is when you call in hopes of locating a bird by getting them to gobble back. These are birds in the vicinity that you did not know were there. This can be an effective tactic because it can bring birds in that are in earshot. If you’ve been calling at a fairly normal volume, it is not a bad idea to throw in an unnaturally loud call to see if you get a shock gobble once in a rare while.
However, I’ve had the best luck calling at a natural volume even if I feel like turkeys are not around. I will give a short calling sequence every 20 minutes just in case something has moved into earshot. You’d be surprised how many turkeys are around, but just aren’t calling, especially later in the day when the morning action subsides.
Tip 19. Turkey Hunting Pressure
Knowing the hunting pressure is a big part of having a successful turkey hunt for beginners. You can often get an idea of how heavily turkeys will be hunted by how easily visible they are from a road, and how busy the road is. Other hunters are taking notes too. Don’t discount these areas, but do your best to find turkeys away from high human traffic areas. It’s always best to find them in areas with very minimal traffic, like an isolated field that is out of sight from a well-traveled road.
Competing for Turkeys
You don’t want to be competing with other people for the same turkeys if you can help it. In my opinion, it takes away from the fun of having a 1 on 1 battle with a group of turkeys. Other hunters can be discouraging because turkeys may go to them instead of you. Especially if they have more knowledge than you and are better at calling.
That said, don’t give up if a hunter shoots a turkey near you. Although turkeys may not be talking much after the shot, there could easily be other turkeys roaming around and may come into your decoys within an hour, you just never know. This is especially true during the first week of the season when they’re not wise to the hunting pressure yet.
Calling
Additionally, knowing the hunting pressure will allow you to adjust how much calling you should do. If the turkeys you are hunting are not pressured at all, you can get away with a little more calling even if it is a little bit unnatural compared to real hens.
The effects of hunting pressure get worse as the season continues, this means turkeys will often stop gobbling altogether except for when they’re in their roosts. This means you should mimic this behavior when you’re calling. This will be more realistic to the turkeys. Often that means the best tactic is to never call. Sounds counter-intuitive but pressured birds will often go to the hunter that does not call over with a hunter that is calling.
Tip 20. Turkey Decoy Placement for Beginners
Different decoy combinations are used in different situations to get the gobblers to do what you want. Turkeys are territorial and lustful, you can use decoys to play on these weaknesses. Try to visualize and anticipate how and in what direction gobblers will approach decoys.
Toms will often hang back from hen decoys 15-20 yards as they get a read on the situation. But they will have no problem approaching another tom or jake decoy. I often place my hens off to the side of my blind and the male decoys close to where I want to shoot but only about 10 yards away. This makes the gobblers cross in front of me so I often create shots 20 yards and under.
Tip 21. Turkey Decoy Combinations for Beginners
Here is a more in-depth article about turkey decoy setups:
Unless you plan to be highly mobile (running and gunning), you’ll almost always want at least one decoy with you. This should always be a hen decoy because when you call you’re mimicking a hen. So to not have a hen decoy in your decoy setup will look unrealistic to turkeys. Also, gobblers are looking for hens at this time of year, so there is almost no reason for not having a hen decoy.
I like this setup when hunting pressure is high, I feel like a single decoy seems more legit to real turkeys because other hunters are often using more than one decoy.
A hen is used as an attractor for toms and jakes. They can be used alone or with other male decoys. When placed with male decoys, a jealously and territorial trigger button will be pushed within male birds making them want to come into the decoys.
A tom turkey in strut when placed next to a hen decoy is used to get another dominant tom fired up and aggressive so that he will want to attack the decoy, thus bringing the bird into shooting range. Jakes will often be scared of a tom decoy so keep that in mind. Less aggressive toms may also shy away. For this reason, I rarely use this setup.
1 Jake + 1 Hen
A jake turkey decoy that is semi-puffed up with hen decoys will make a tom want to put the jake in its place by letting him know who’s boss. This is because Tom turkeys don’t want jakes to puff up to display for hens. This will make the tom angry and want to come in and take the jake out of the picture so he can have the hen (your decoy) to himself. Additionally, other jakes will feel comfortable coming to join. This jake decoy can bring in any age male turkey. I use this setup a lot.
Semi-Puffed Jake Turkey Decoy
2 Hens
Two hen decoys are good for larger groups of gobblers because a bigger group of male turkeys will feel more comfortable coming to a party of two. Two hen decoys are very non-threatening so you can attract any male turkey. However, although not threatening, a single male turkey may be intimidated and feel outnumbered, especially jakes.
Tip 22. Practice Your Calling
Calling is an important part of turkey hunting. Especially when it is more effective at the beginning of the hunting season when turkeys are not as badly pressured by hunters. I suggest listening to real hens calling on YouTube, taking mental notes, and practicing your turkey calling my mimic these turkeys. I like slate calls myself.
Just remember that knowing when not to call is just, if not more important, than knowing how to call well.
Tip 23. Be Mobile
Although there is a lot to be said for being patient. Sometimes you’ve just gotta take the game to the turkeys. A good strategy is to walk around and call periodically until you hear a gobble, then try to get close to the gobbler and set up a single decoy and try to call him in. A gobbler will often want you to go to him which is a tricky situation, Sometimes it pays off by walking in the opposite direction and calling or calling quieter. This will make you sound further away and will make the tom angry and will start coming to you.
Conclusion
After years of hunting turkeys, I’ve learned a lot through trial and error. I wish I had these tips when I started hunting. If you follow these tips I have no doubt you’ll increase your springtime turkey hunting success. What turkey hunting tips do you think should be added? Let me know in the comments below.
There are a few reasons why beavers build dams. Beaver dams are an essential survival strategy for beavers because it allows them to create their own habitat instead of relying on the environment to provide it for them as most animals do. This article will dive further into beavers dams, why beavers build them, and beaver dam misconceptions.
Table of Contents
Why Do Beavers Build Dams?
What is a Beaver Dam?
In order to understand why beavers build dams, you must know what a beaver dam is. A beaver dam is a restriction in an outlet of a waterbody by beavers in order to create flooding.
Why Do Beavers Build Dams?
Since beavers are considered semi-aquatic; they are well adapted to life in the water – complete with webbed swimming feet and a broad paddle-like tail. On land, they move quite slowly and are extremely vulnerable to predators.
By strategically placing a dam at the outlet of a waterbody, the beavers restrict water flow and effectively flood the immediate area, creating a pond within which they can construct a lodge and move about the area much more easily. In the simplest terms, beavers build dams to help fulfill their most basic needs of survival; food, water, shelter, breeding, and rearing.
How Do Beavers Build Dams?
Typically, a family of beavers will construct and maintain a single dam within their territory. Dams are a mixture of cut trees, branches, and mud used to fuse everything together. Since beavers are primarily nocturnal, much of dam building occurs at night. Using their incredibly strong and sharp teeth, beavers work quickly to chip away at the layers of a tree or lop off branches.
Ideally, the tree or large branches will fall into the water, which allows the beaver to float the wood through the water. Once the larger pieces are in place, the beaver will use anything available in the area: mud, twigs, small rocks or stones, grasses, shrubs, plant roots, and more to plug-in any open areas and create a more waterproof dam. Beavers also maintain the dam regularly and are signaled that the dam needs repair by the sound of running water.
A beaver chewing trees to be used to make a beaver dam or beaver lodge
How Big Are Beaver Dams?
On average, dams reach about five-feet high and vary in length from just a few feet to a few hundred. Beaver dams vary in size and placement depending on the environment and size of outflow they are trying to plug. The largest beaver dam in recorded history was in Alberta, Canada, reaching over a half-mile long at 2,790 feet.
Beaver Lodges Vs Beaver Dams
What Does a Beaver Lodge Look Like?
If you’ve ever looked out over a pond or marsh, your eye may have caught that characteristic pile of sticks protruding out of the wetland. This is more than just a messy pile of sticks and logs that the local wildlife has pushed out of the way. This is a beaver lodge.
Beaver Lodge Covered in Snow
Why Do Beavers Build Lodges?
A beaver lodge is many things: a home, nursery, a hideout, a kitchen and dining room, and most of all – a necessary element of survival.
Where Do Beavers Live?
The habitat of the beaver is flexible: because they can, in fact, create the necessary habitat conditions needed for their survival. However, they need one key factor available in their environment – and that’s water. Beavers can move into and occupy ponds or lakes, rivers and streams, marshy areas, and any wetland. Within these areas they have flooded beavers will create and live in lodges mode from logs, sticks, and mud.
The North American beaver (Castor canadensis) is one of two beaver species in existence today, occurring throughout the U.S. and Canada. The species has been successfully introduced into South America and Europe, and historically occupied areas of Mexico.
Do Beavers Hibernate?
Beavers are not true hibernators, and instead, remain active throughout the winter months. During this season, beavers spend the majority of their time within the lodge, given that they’ve been successful at preparing for the cold weather by storing enough food (in the form of fresh branches) to last until the spring thaw.
What Do Beavers Eat?
Beavers are herbivores, meaning they eat only plants. They will utilize most parts of the tree, from bark, buds, stems, and leaves. Their favorite trees are aspen, willow, birch, alder, cherry, and maple. Beavers will also forage other plants in the area like grasses, ferns, mushrooms, and roots of wetland plants. Beavers don’t eat fish or other wetland wildlife.
Beaver Food Caches
Beaver food caches are usually a pile of sticks located near the lodge. These are important supply stocks for the beaver family, particularly in the winter when caches are stashed close to the lodge for easy access when ice forms.
Beaver Food Cache
Are Beavers Dangerous?
Beavers prefer to be secretive, staying within the safety of their pond. It’s a good practice to always respect wildlife by giving them their space and keeping a safe distance. But in general, beavers are not a threat.
Beavers may seem scary because they are very territorial creatures. They will slap their hefty leathery tail on the surface of the water and made a loud KA-THUNK as if someone dropped a large rock into the water. They do this to scare off intruders. If your paddling in an area at sunset or nighttime when beavers are on the move, this can be very startling. They will also commonly fight each other to defend their territories by biting with their teeth. It is not uncommon for beavers to have battle scars and bite marks. Beavers will mark their territory by placing castor gland scent on small mud piles within their territories.
However, beavers will opt to flee from a human rather than stand and fight. It is possible sick or disoriented beavers, especially those that feel threatened, may try to defend themselves from people and other animals.
Beaver Diseases & Rabies
Never drink water from a pond or beaver impoundment. The water could be contaminated with giardia bacteria from beaver feces and can produce an ailment in humans known as “beaver fever.” Beavers are susceptible to bacterial Tularemia, transmitted by ticks or biting flies.
Beavers can be infected with rabies, which is sometimes contracted from territorial scuffles with another mammal in the area (like a rabies-infected raccoon). Even when beavers do contract the disease, they rarely pass it on to other animals. Rabies attacks the brain and nervous system and will end in death for the beaver.
Interesting Beaver Facts
How Long Do Beavers live?
In the wild, the average life span of a beaver is about ten years, and up to fifteen years in some cases. In captivity, beavers have been recorded living up to 24 years. During this time, a well-fed beaver can reach a size of 60 pounds and over three-feet in length.
Baby beavers, called kits, will stay with their parents for the first two years of life. This means they may be living with the previous year’s offspring for one season, forming a large beaver colony.
How Long Can A Beaver Stay Underwater?
A beaver can stay underwater for up to 15 minutes before needing to come to the surface for air.
Beaver Eyelid Adaptations
Beavers are equipped with transparent eyelids so they can see while swimming, similar in function to goggles.
Conclusion
Beavers are fascinating animals that are efficient engineers, creating dams with a very specific purpose. Their ability to build dams and create impoundments provides excellent habitat for other plants and animals. I hope you’ve found this post helpful, if you have feel free to share this on social media using the social media buttons.
This OnX Hunt App Review covers, Layout & Ease of Use, Parcel Information Layer, Federal, State, and Public Land Parcel Layers, Aerial, Hybrid, Topo Maps, Measure Tools, Tracking and Track Library, Offline Maps, OnX Maps Web Application, OnX GPS Chips, and Subscription Pricing.
I believe these topics are the most important to discuss when deciding if the OnX Hunt App is right for you.
OnX Hunt App Review
Key Features Discussed:
Layout & Ease of Use
Parcel Information Layer
Federal, State, and Public Land Parcel Layers
Aerial, Hybrid, Topo Maps
Measure Tools
Tracking and Track Library
Offline Maps
OnX Maps Web Application
GPS Chips
Subscription Pricing
OnX Hunt App Layout & Ease of Use
OnX is laid out very simply and it took no time at all to figure out how to use it and is one of my top GPS hunting apps. I have found many GPS apps on the market can be quite confusing to use at first. OnX is one of the simplest to learn, while still being feature-rich.
When you open the app you will have a dashboard below the map. In this dashboard, there are 5 main tabs to choose from which makes things clean and simple. These tabs are “Map Layers” “Off-Grid” “My Content” “Map Tools” and “Tracker” as shown in the photo below. Everything you need can be found within these 5 tabs.
OnX Hunt App Home screen Layout – Clean and Easy to Use.
OnX Hunt App Parcel Information Layer
The paid versions of OnX give you the option to toggle off property parcel information so you can see where you are in relation to property lines. I can’t say enough good things about OnX with its helpfulness in finding out the owners of parcels. OnX has made it so easy to determine what house owns a certain property just by looking at the parcel information. It saves hours of headaches trying to find out who owns what parcel of land and talking to a bunch of different landowners.
In Maine, you can access anyone’s land as long as it is not posted. Often, I end up scouting a property first before I ask permission so I can figure out if the property is even worth hunting in the future. If the property is worth hunting, I will make a point to still ask for permission and OnX makes this a breeze.
OnX Hunt Private Parcel Layer
OnX Hunt App Federal, State, and Public Land Parcel Layers
There is a lot to like about OnX but arguably my favorite aspect of OnX is that you can toggle on/off Federal, State, and Public land parcel layers. This is super handy because you can quickly scan the state you are hunting and find places that are likely to be open to the public. I use this feature all of the time to find new places to scout and hunt.
When possible, I prefer to hunt on public land so that I don’t have to ask for permission. It’s always nice to have a handful of public land areas in your portfolio of places to hunt when hunting season approaches. OnX makes it very easy to find these overlooked public land areas because it highlights these parcels so they stand out from the private land parcels. In the photo below you can see these highlighted areas.
Government Lands – Federal, State, and Public Land Parcel Layer
OnX Hunt App Aerial, Hybrid, Topo Maps
OnX also has an excellent quick toggle button on the bottom right hand of the home screen that allows you to switch from aerial, hybrid, and topo maps very easily. Although the topo maps aren’t super detailed, they are quite good and usually give me detailed enough information for 90% of what I’m using it for.
OnX Hunt Map Quick Toggle Button
OnX Hunt App Measure Tools
Measure tools are a must-have for me when scouting and hunting. I like to be able to measure distances and areas to estimate how long an area will take to scout or to determine how many miles I have back to my vehicle at the end of the day so that I can estimate what time I need to leave the woods to get back to the car around dark. This app has the option to measure both lines and areas.
OnX Hunt App Tracking
You can record the path you’re walking by clicking the “Tracker” Tab. Here you will find a big green button that says “Start” when you want to stop tracking there is a big red button that says “Stop” making it straightforward to use.
OnX Hunt Tracking
OnX Hunt App Review of Offline Maps
Another dynamite feature of the paid version of OnX is the option to download offline imagery. This allows you to always have a map in the background of your app, even if you don’t have phone service. I use this feature a lot when I am tracking bucks in the snow in remote areas of Maine, where service is rare.
This offline map feature gives me more time to hunt at the end of the day because I can find my way out to the nearest logging road easily. This feature also makes me much more confident when I’m in the big woods. It’s easy to get lost in remote areas, but OnX helps me feel comfortable going anywhere. This way I spend a lot less time thinking about getting lost or figuring out how to get back to my car at the end of the day, keeping me in the woods longer.
To do this, it does require a yearly subscription. Downloading offline maps is very simple in OnX. First, you navigate to the “Off-Grid” tab, then you choose the option “save a new map”. Next, you select the area you want to download, and then OnX will download it for you. After downloading is complete, you can use this offline map anytime, even without service.
PRO TIP: I like to keep my phone in airplane mode when using it offline. Since I don’t need service to load the maps anymore this allows my battery to last so much longer.
OnX Maps Web Application
The OnX Maps Web Application is one of my favorite features. With this feature, you can use your computer browsers to open the OnX phone app. This allows you to have a much bigger screen. Additionally, you can import and export KML files from Google Earth onto the website application. This information is then seamlessly transferred to your phone application. I believe this website application could replace Google Earth in the future altogether if it keeps improving. For me, this alone is worth the subscription price.
onX Website Application
OnX Hunt App GPS SD Chips
Another awesome feature OnX provides is an SD chip that can be used in many Garmin GPS’s. I personally haven’t used this feature but I feel like it is worth mentioning in this post. The OnX website lists the Garmin GPS’s that will work with the SD chip. I really like that this SD chip can be updated so that the information on the chip doesn’t go out-of-date. In addition to buying the chip, OnX gives you a free year membership for the OnX App. This is nice because you’ll have a backup if either your phone or GPS stops working for whatever reason.
OnX Hunt App Considerations
The location icon in OnX is a circle. Because it is a circle, to determine the direction you’re facing in relation to the map you need to double click the ‘find location’ crosshair icon just below the map type quick toggle button. However, when you do this the entire map adjusts and throws off the north orientation. This is probably the worst feature of this app that needs to be fixed. In my opinion, this is unacceptable and I even use other GPS Apps just to have an arrow that points in the direction that I’m looking at while maintaining my north orientation.
There needs to be an option to keep a north orientation and have a triangular location icon that points in the direction I’m facing instead of the whole map moving. A setting to toggle this option would be great. The video below will help visualize what I am describing:
Subscription Pricing
Currently, OnX Hunt charges $29.99/year for Premium (a single state). Elite costs $99.99/year but gives you information for all 50 states. If you’re looking to get more information and/or to start your free trial you can head over to OnX Hunt App Website.
OnX Hunt App Final Thoughts
I hope you enjoyed this OnX Hunt App Review. If you have any questions or comments leave them in the comments section below or feel free to contact me on social media.
If you’re wondering what other GPS Hunting Apps are available you may like my post:
This JX3 Hybrid saddle review covers 13 categories; comfortability, mobility, maneuverability, safety, durability, versatility, cost-effectiveness, stealthiness, concealment, imperfect trees, tree-size, theft-prevention, and ability to hunt multiple stand locations. I believe these are the most important aspects to focus on when deciding on a tree saddle for hunting. This review will compare these categories to conventional tree saddles on the market.
My Experience Tree Saddle Hunting
Highly Mobile and Effective Pieces Of Equipment
Conventional tree saddles (tree saddles made entirely of fabric and rope) have worked great for me since 2016. This was when I made the switch from conventional tree stands (ladder, hang-on, and climbing). They’ve allowed me to hunt places most hunters would never dream to hunt because it’s too difficult to put up a conventional treestand.
Saddle hunting has increased my success dramatically. Conventional saddles have enabled me to get away from the hunting pressure and find more productive spots to hunt while still have the advantage of being in a tree.
Conventional Saddles (Fabric & Rope) Are Uncomfortable
However, there was one aspect that was lacking for me, long-lasting comfort. After spending some quality time in conventional saddles, I became disappointed with my comfort when on-stand for long periods of time. At the time it was worth being uncomfortable in order to get far back into my hunting spots and be able to climb a tree. But in recent years I was getting tired of being so uncomfortable and fidgety in the tree, so I started looking at other saddles on the market.
Conventional fabric saddles offer some adjustability but are uncomfortable over time.
After a few hours my body just couldn’t take the pinching at the hips, the cutting off of blood flow, and just couldn’t be fully relaxed in the saddles, thus I would fidget…a lot. I wasn’t about to have a missed opportunity at a big buck because I was fidgeting all the time. I knew I had to find another alternative.
Table of Contents
Comfortable Tree Saddle Research
I’ve really enjoyed hunting in tree saddles over the years and loved every other feature of them so I didn’t want to stop using them. So I did some research to see if there were any new saddles on the market that would be more comfortable.
New Saddles On The Market
Luckily, there are many more saddle-hunting options on the market than back in 2016 when I first made my switch to tree saddles, and technology had improved.
These new tree saddles consist of Tethrd Tree Saddles, newer versions of New Tribe Aero Hunter Saddles, Trophy Line Tree Saddle, and a few newer companies that offer similar features. However, after looking at reviews online they all had the same issues of causing discomfort over time. The fabric style designs aimed at keeping them as mobile as possible were the culprit for the discomfort.
I wanted a saddle that would be comfortable for the entire duration that I wanted to hunt. So I kept looking.
JX3 Hybrid Reclining Comfort
I had no issues sitting in the JX3 Hybrid tree saddle for 10 hours straight. It’s like a recliner in a tree.
JX3 Hybrid Tree Saddle Evolved From Guido’s Web Tree Saddle
Back in 2016, before buying a conventional saddle I was also eyeballing the Guido’s Web saddle which was a bigger but comfier looking saddle. At the time I decided it was too big because I wanted to hunt as mobile as possible. Now that I was looking for a tree saddle that could keep me mobile while keeping me comfortable, I was willing to give it another look.
A quick Google search for the Guido’s Web saddle revealed it had been bought out by JX3 Outdoors. JX3 updated and remodeled the Guido’s Web to what is now known as the JX3 Hybrid Saddle.
This saddle was said to be lighter, more versatile, and easier to use than the Guido’s Web. What are the odds? I couldn’t believe my luck. I had to give it a try.
JX3 Hybrid First Impressions
Customer Service
I contacted John, the owner of JX3 Outdoors, to see if he would like a review of his JX3 in exchange for a JX3 to experiment with…and here we are. John is a really nice guy, is quick to respond, and ships his products quickly.
Ease of Use & Set-up Instructions
Out of the box, the JX3 is all put together and ready to go and comes with an instructions manual. If you’re like me and prefer video instructions there is some good information on YouTube.
Field Testing The JX3 Hybrid Saddle
Works For Bowhunters and Firearm Hunters
I got my hands on the JX3 Hybrid Saddle at the beginning of November, just after the start of deer rifle season started here in Maine. I was able to put this saddle to the test in real hunting situations throughout the remainder of the hunting season. The saddle also works well for bowhunters. I practiced with my bow in the JX3 and it is just as easy to shoot out of as conventional saddles.
Putting The JX3 Hybrid To The Test
I’m normally hunting areas that most other hunters do not, in order to find mature bucks that aren’t pressured as hard. For this reason, I am often trying to be as sneaky as possible as I wade a mile or so into thick swamps in the dark. This is why I am drawn to saddle hunting in the first place.
So I was curious just how mobile this saddle was, how much of a beating it could endure, how quiet it was, and how it competes with other saddles.
JX3 Hybrid – Extended Legs and Easily Drawn Compound Bow
JX3 Hybrid Tree Saddle Review
I am excited to bring you this JX3 Hybrid saddle review because it doesn’t disappoint and was actually more than what I was expecting.
JX3 Hybrid Tree Saddle vs Conventional Treestands (Ladder, Climber, Hang-on Stands)
Since I have already covered these topics in-depth, this post will not compare conventional stands to the JX3 Hybrid. Instead, this post will focus specifically on the JX3 Hybrid Saddle and how it compares to other saddles.
JX3 Hybrid Tree Saddle vs. Conventional Tree Saddles
In this review, I discuss the 13 most important categories to consider when purchasing a tree saddle for hunting. These 13 categories are listed below. The differences between the JX3 Hybrid saddle and competitor saddles are subtle in most cases. There is one big exception; comfort. The chart below depicts the ranking I gave for each of these categories. My reasoning for the scores of each of these categories is described in the proceeding paragraphs.
The JX3 Hybrid is built differently than other saddles so there are some benefits and drawbacks to take into consideration to determine if the JX3 Hybrid is right for you.
Say goodbye to hip-pinching and numb legs & feet! Because of the metal frame, there is ZERO pinching at the hips or anywhere else like other saddles. Comfort is where the JX3 Hybrid really outshines conventional saddles.
Metal Frame
The JX3 Hybrid has a metal frame. This is unlike conventional saddles which are made entirely of fabric and rope. There are some major comfort benefits of the metal frame. One benefit of the metal frame is that even when you’re in awkward leaning trees the JX3 remains comfortable because the metal frame blocks the negative effects of gravity. In conventional tree saddles, gravity places more stress on your knees which makes them uncomfortable faster.
JX3 Hybrid Saddle Review | Metal Lip Against Tree
Metal Fork
Another benefit that the metal frame supports is the optional adjustable metal fork that can be attached to the frame which rests against the tree. With this fork, you separate yourself from the tree even further and gain more grip when maneuvering around the tree.
I don’t have much experience with the metal fork because I preferred to keep a closer profile to the tree for concealment, so I didn’t attach it often. Just using the metal lip worked better for me. When I did use the fork I did not find it all that much more helpful than the metal lip. It also seemed a little hazardous because it is fairly sharp and can scrape the back of your legs when maneuvering. The metal fork is adjustable. When I did experiment with it I found myself putting it as close to the seat as possible anyway. This helped keep it from scraping the back of my legs. I also found the screw to secure the fork would be somewhat in the way. With practice, this probably wouldn’t be an issue but it’s worth mentioning.
JX3 Hybrid Metal Fork Against Tree
Adjustable Backrest
The backrest is also adjustable, allowing for adjustments to be made easily in the field while being used. If you start getting tired of sitting in a certain way, you can make the adjustments so you recline comfortably again.
JX3 Hybrid Adjustable Backrest And Straps
Your body can fully relax in this saddle. If you want to take a nap for a while, it is easy to do so. You can’t nap well in other saddles because you can’t lean back in them for long periods. Additionally, when you lean forward your head and neck get kinked on the bridge strap. This is not the case with the JX3 Hybrid. Instead, it’s like being in a recliner in a tree. It’s truly incredibly comfortable and I can’t say enough good things about its comfort.
Tree Saddle Platform Comfort
In conventional saddles, I am always alternating my foot and knee placement a lot to maintain foot comfort (aka lots of fidgeting). Conventional saddles have a 45º-ish hammock-like angle that causes more resistance against gravity. This eventually causes foot and knee soreness.
The JX3 Hybrid takes a lot of pressure off your feet because of the 90º angle of the seat. This means the seat resists a lot of gravity. In the JX3 I only need to use my entire platform when I feel like it, instead of being forced to by discomfort. I really only need the top of my climbing sticks to rest my feet comfortably all day, the other steps of my platform are just for maneuvering.
Conventional Tree Saddles
Don’t get me wrong, conventional tree saddles can be fairly comfortable. Adjustable straps located on the back and leg portions of these saddles allow for some customized pressure point relief. You can also attach back-bands to recline into. I’ve done all of that, however, I’ve found that they are short-term solutions that end up not working well the longer you sit on-stand.
I’ve personally found that the unnatural body position and soreness from conventional saddles cause physical and mental fatigue. This is quite draining on consecutive hunts where you don’t have time to recover from the pinching of the conventional saddles. If you never plan to sit longer than 3-ish hours, you might be fine with a conventional saddle. After 3 hours you will probably only experience a little discomfort. In my opinion, they are at least better than non-mobile conventional treestands.
However, during the right time of year sitting all day is key to success for mature bucks. The ability to sit on-stand comfortably has made saddle hunting and stand hunting in general so much more enjoyable. For these reasons, I gave the JX3 Hybrid a 10 and conventional saddles a 6 out of 10.
JX3 Hybrid Comfort vs Conventional Tree Saddles
How Mobile Is The JX3 Hybrid Saddle?
How Much Does The JX3 Hybrid Saddle Weigh?
The JX3 Hybrid Saddle weighs about 13.8 lbs which is heavier than conventional saddles on the market. However, the JX3 Hybrid has backpack straps, the ability to store gear, and climbing sticks that can be attached to the frame. This made its mobility surprisingly good. It did not feel much heavier or cumbersome than conventional saddles.
JX3 Hybrid Saddle Weighs 13.8 lbs
How Much Do Conventional Tree Saddles Weigh?
Conventional saddles weigh anywhere from 1-7 lbs and can be worn like a piece of clothing. They are inarguably more light-weight which aids in their mobility. Additionally, it is fabric so it can easily be rolled up into a small bag and placed into a backpack. It can also be worn to the treestand which is what I prefer when hunting in conventional saddles. I drape the ropes over my shoulders when walking to my stand making transportation simple and noise-free.
JX3 Hybrid Backpack Straps and Ropes
I found the JX3 Hybrid almost as easy to carry as other tree saddles because of how it is carried. The JX3 Hybrid is designed to be carried like a backpack and comes with backpack straps. With the JX3 I was able to tuck all the ropes into the compartment saddle itself so I did not have to worry about the tree strap and linesman’s belt getting tangled. Another benefit of the JX3 Hybrid is it does not have a bridge rope. Instead, it has a built-in fabric bridge which was great because it was one less rope I had to deal with and get tangled up with.
Because of the backpack straps, the JX3 does not feel nearly as heavy as you would think. To be honest I can’t really tell the difference in weight because it packs so nice and close to the body. It also did not make much noise when walking through thick brush because it is tight to your body. My main concern was that the JX3 Hybrid wouldn’t be as mobile as I needed it to be, but I was pleasantly surprised when I found it to be a very mobile stand.
JX3 Hybrid Saddle & Climbing Sticks
One of my absolute favorite aspects of this saddle is that you can attach your climbing sticks to the back of the saddle frame.
That being said, you will have to figure out a way to attach them. The straps provided with the saddle aren’t great for strapping climbing vertically (which is key) to the frame. This is key because you don’t want your climbing sticks to get caught up in the brush. When you strap them vertically, walking through the brush is so much easier and quieter.
JX3 Hybrid with Climbing Sticks Attached
This is an important feature for me because when using a conventional saddle I would have to carry my sticks in one hand or over one shoulder (which would sometimes slip off) and my bow in the other which feels cumbersome. With the JX3 Hybrid, I didn’t have to worry about this because the sticks were on my back. This was worth the extra weight more often than not.
I gave the JX3 Hybrid a 9 out of 10 and conventional saddles a score of 10 out of 10 for mobility. They both work very well in their own ways, both have benefits and drawbacks.
JX3 Hybrid Mobility vs Conventional Tree Saddles
Can You Maneuver Effortlessly In The JX3 Hybrid Saddle?
A good tree saddle will let you shoot a full 360º around trees as well as directly underneath. A good saddle will also allow you to push off the tree to change your vertical height slightly to shoot just above or below a branch while still being able to shoot comfortably. By fully extending my legs from my platform it raises my elevation a few inches. Scrunching up close to the tree lowers my elevation. Both the JX3 Hybrid and conventional saddles do a great job with this. The JX3 backrest does not get in the way when extending your legs as it forms to the body.
JX3 Metal Lip Alleviates Strain When Maneuvering
You might be surprised that I gave the JX3 a better maneuverability score than conventional saddles given the JX3 Hybrid’s size. However, the JX3 Hybrid is a very maneuverable saddle, even more so than competitor saddles in my opinion. Because the JX3 has a metal lip on the front part of the seat frame, your knees are not needed as much for maneuvering. By rocking your body weight you can easily turn the saddle in the direction you want to go with very little effort. Since your knees are freer, you can use your legs for fine-tuning your movements and making your movements stealthier. This is one feature I appreciated when using this tree saddle.
JX3 Metal Fork Provides Grip When Maneuvering
The meal fork can be helpful for maneuverability because it digs into the tree allowing you to twist with minimal movement and no slippage because it digs into the tree. Personally, I did not use the fork much because it chews up the tree. I found the metal lip on the front works pretty much the same just with slightly less grip to prevent slippage when maneuvering.
Maneuvering With JX3 Hybrid On Platforms
There are many types of saddle hunting platforms on the market. Based on my experience they should all work just as well with the JX3. You won’t have to buy a new platform if you’re already a saddle hunter. I still use the same platform method as I always have. I have been able to maneuver with equal success in both the JX3 and conventional saddles.
JX3 Hybrid Maneuverability Using Lone Wolf Climbing Sticks with Ameristep Screw-In Step Platform
I found the JX3 slightly better for maneuvering in the tree. I liked that the metal lip could rock against the tree so that I could twist easier and with less strain. Because the JX3 reduces the amount of strain when maneuvering I gave it a score of 10 out of 10 and conventional saddles a 9 out of 10.
JX3 Hybrid Maneuverability vs Conventional Tree Saddles
Is the JX3 Hybrid Saddle Safe?
In my opinion tree saddles, in general, are just as safe if not safer than treestands, the JX3 is no exception.
When used properly you are harnessed to the tree throughout the entire climb. When ascending the tree you are harnessed in with the lineman’s belt. Once you get to the height at which you will be hunting you’ll need to also use the lineman’s belt to place the tree rope. The lineman’s belt allows for a quick, painless, and safe installation of the tree rope. Once the tree rope is secured to the tree you can attach yourself to it via carabiner. Once attached, the lineman’s belt can be removed. To descend the tree reverse the process.
If you encounter tree limbs that your lineman’s belt cannot get around you can use the tree strap as a second linesman’s belt. You can do this by re-attaching a second belt above the limb and removing the first belt from below the limb. Then you continue your way up the tree, thus being attached to the tree 100% of the time.
Tree Saddle Hunting | Climbing With Multiple Linesman’s Belts
Because both the JX3 Hybrid and other saddle companies both allow you to be strapped in 100% of the time, they both scored a 10 out of 10 in the safety category.
JX3 Hybrid Safety vs Conventional Tree Saddles
Is The JX3 Hybrid Saddle Durable?
I have not had enough time with the JX3 Hybrid to make this judgment. The seat fabric at first glance seems like it could stretch, wear out, or torn over time because it is thin. However, I contacted JX3 Outdoors to see if they have had any issues with the seat fabric. The response was that they had never had a return because of the fabric and provided the fabric specs:
“The fabric that is used is woven vinyl-coated polymer mesh which does not tear or split under pressure and offers exceptional abrasion resistance. In addition, it repels water and air-dries quickly and the PVC coating that covers the polyester core keeps water from soaking the yarn preventing any damage due to freeze and thaw.”
In addition, I was provided a video that demonstrates the durability of the fabric which made me feel much more confident in the seat’s durability over time.
If it can handle a screwdriver, it can handle sticks. Even after the fabric was eventually punctured, it did not compromise the integrity of the fabric much because other bands of the mesh appeared to be recruited to offset the punctured parts.
I gave both the JX3 Hybrid and conventional saddles a 10 out of 10 in the durability compartment because both are made of high-strength durable fabrics that will last a long time.
JX3 Hybrid Durability vs Conventional Tree Saddles
How Versatile Is The JX3 Hybrid Saddle?
Build-in Ground Chair
The Jx3 Hybrid is unique in that it doubles as a ground-chair. If a better setup presents itself from the ground, it can be used in that way. Additionally, this makes this saddle open to more types of hunting, like when mobile hunting for turkeys where a low profile seat is needed.
Built-in Bow Hanger
The JX3 also comes with built-in hooks on the sides of the saddle so that you can hang your bow from the saddle via the bowstring. I didn’t find myself using this feature because when a bow is in the hanger its is pointed down towards the ground. This means it takes extra movement to get it shot-ready.
It might just be a habit, but I prefer my bow to be upright so all I have to do is take it off a hook and it’s ready to shoot, resulting in minimal movement.
Packable Frame
Because of the strength of the high strength plastic and metal frame, the JX3 can be used to pack game out. There are a lot of straps for tightening making it a good option for packing game out. That being said, packing game out is not common where I live or practical where I hunt most of the time. It is also a Maine tradition to weigh the field-dressed deer, so quartering and packing out is not something I do much if any of.I do use the frame to pack my equipment to and from the treestand which I have found to be very helpful and comfortable. This is definitely a feature I miss when hunting out of conventional saddles.
Are the JX3 Hybrid Extras Worth It?
I don’t use all of the versatile features that the JX3 offers. That is not to say that these features don’t work, they are just impractical for me and my style of hunting most of the time. It is also important to note that I haven’t used this saddle for anything other than deer hunting. That said, there is no downside to having these features so, why not?
Because the JX3 Hybrid had more unique options it is clearly a more versatile saddle. For this reason, I gave the JX3 a 10 out of 10. Conventional saddles don’t have this much versatility, but they do the important things well. For example, being mobile with the ability to set up in trees in all shapes and sizes. I gave conventional saddles a score of 8 out of 10 in the versatility category when compared to the JX3.
JX3 Hybrid Versatility vs Conventional Tree Saddles
Is The JX3 Hybrid Saddle Cost-Effective?
Like all tree saddles, once you buy one you will not have to buy another treestand making it very cost-effective. It replaces the reason for buying multiple permanent ladder or hang-on stands, which adds up quickly. For example, one JX3 Hybrid = infinite treestands. Five hang-on or ladder stands = five treestands. Since all tree saddles have this ability, both were given a score of 10 out of 10.
How Much Does The JX3 Hybrid Cost?
The JX3 Hybrid costs about $395.00, you can check the price here. but as I mentioned it replaces the need for purchasing multiple conventional hang-on and ladder stands which adds up quickly. With the JX3 Hybrid, you can hunt anywhere at any time. Platform prices range because there are so many of them out there. The Ameristep Tree Steps that I use are around 2$-3$ apiece, and I rarely use more than 5. So for 15$, you can have an ideal platform.
JX3 Hybrid Cost-Effectiveness vs Conventional Tree Saddles
How Stealthy is the JX3 Hybrid Saddle?
The JX3 is less stealthy than competitor saddles. It’s a bit bulkier and has less fabric and more plastic and metal. That being said, for its size and materials, it is surprisingly quiet. Much of the metal and plastic is covered with fabric. I don’t have any problems with metal noise other than the carabiners, which I taped to prevent clanging (I do this on all other saddles too). Also, it’s carried tightly against your back so branches and whips have a hard time slapping the JX3 Hybrid when being carried.
Because the JX3 is a little larger and made with slightly noisier material I gave it an 8 out of 10 when compared to competitor saddles which received a 10 out of 10.
JX3 Hybrid Tree Saddle Review Comparison 2 | Stealthiness
JX3 Hybrid Concealment
Like conventional saddles, another great benefit of the JX3 Hybrid is that it enables me to use the tree to my advantage. For example, if an animal is coming from a certain direction, you can move so that the tree is between you and the animal to stay concealed. Another perk is that since you do not have to cut limbs down to get up a tree as touched on in the ‘Imperfect Trees’ section above. This allows you to leave natural cover to blend in better and stay more concealed.
The JX3 is a bit larger than conventional saddles and because of the frame of the seat, you can’t hunker down as close to the tree trunk as you can with other saddles. I don’t see this having any negative effects because it’s only a foot or so difference. For this reason, I have the JX3 a 9 out of 10 and conventional saddles a 10 out of 10.
JX3 Hybrid Concealment vs Conventional Tree Saddles
Can The JX3 Hybrid Saddle Be Set-up In Imperfect Trees?
Both the Jx3 Hybrid and competitor saddles are able to climb ugly trees that are full of branches without cutting the limbs and never detaching yourself from the tree. The benefit of this is; during run and gun setups you can put yourself in the best spot possible, even if the tree isn’t perfect. You can also hunt trees that are leaning. With a higher selection of trees available I have been able to put myself in better positions making my hunts more successful.
I gave the JX3 an 8 out of 10 because the JX3 is a bit bulkier and it is only slightly more difficult to climb up limby trees, especially in the brush because parts of the saddle tends to get caught by twigs so set up takes slightly longer. Conventional saddles scored a 10 out of 10 for their ability to set up in imperfect trees quieter and easier.
JX3 Hybrid Imperfect Tree Setups vs Conventional Tree Saddles
Can The JX3 Hybrid Saddle Set-up In Different Sizes Of Trees?
I gave both the JX3 Hybrid and competitor saddles a 10 out of 10 for their ability to climb trees of any size that will support your weight. The size of the JX3 Hybrid does not affect its ability to climb both small and large trees. I have found this to be important in swamps where vegetation is stunted.
The ability to hunt smaller trees gives me the ability to hunt where other hunters cannot. You can also hunt trees as large as the linesman and tree rope will reach which will allow you to climb trees over 30 inches in diameter. If you need to hunt larger trees you can purchase or create your own linesman’s ropes to meet your needs.
JX3 Hybrid Tree Size Flexibility vs Conventional Tree Saddles
Theft Prevention
Theft can be a problem on public lands, and even on private land! The peace of mind of being able to take tree saddles home at the end of the day is huge for me. There’s nothing worse than getting excited about going hunting only to find your stand missing or damaged. Additionally, not having a bulky ladder or hang-on stand permanently placed on a tree prevents treestand locations from being discovered by other hunters.
Since the JX3 Hybrid and conventional saddles are meant to bring in and out of the woods after every hunt, theft is not a problem. Thus, both were given a score of 10 out of 10 in this category.
JX3 Hybrid Theft Prevention vs Conventional Tree Saddles
Can You Hunt In Multiple Stands With The JX3 Hybrid Saddle?
Hunting in the same treestand repeatedly will quickly burn out your spots. The first couple sits are the most effective. This makes permanent ladder and hang-on stands easy to over-hunt and for big bucks to pattern your movements. To increase my success I like to spread out my hunting pressure within multiple high-odd locations and hunt them when conditions are right. This keeps my stands fresh.
Tree saddles are great for this because you are able to hunt anywhere you want on any given day because tree saddles come home with you after every hunt. Both the JX3 and competitor saddles are simple and easy to set-up so I can avoid hunting the same trees over and over. This keeps hunting spots fresh, making each hunt essentially the “first sit”. For this reason, both were given a score 10 out of 10.
JX3 Hybrid Multiple Stand Setups vs Conventional Tree Saddles
A place to solidly strap in climbing sticks vertically. Or an attachment that can be placed on the frame to do this. This would improve mobility and ease-of-use.
Backrest Slipping
One issue I had was that the backrest kept slipping off the metal-framed seat on one side. This only happens a few times over the course of a day. It was a little startling because it would happen suddenly, but did not affect overall comfort much.
Metal Fork
When maneuvering the optional metal fork that comes with the saddle can scrape the back of your legs or worse if not careful. I’ve found the metal lip is a better alternative anyway and does not damage trees as badly.
Longevity
After reading the instruction manual that came with the saddle I noticed that it is only recommended to use the saddle for 5 years before replacing the saddle. If the saddle is taken care of it will likely last longer, but for safety, the manual recommends replacing it every 5 years, which is not a very long time.
Strap Tightening
I would like to have straps that tighten easier. Due to the fastening buckle used the straps on the back of the saddle are difficult to tighten especially with cold hands. It would be great to have a buckle that could tighten and loosen very easily.
Is The JX3 Hybrid Saddle The Best Tree Saddle On The Market?
Like all tree saddles, they are a tool. One scenario may be better suited for a conventional saddle, another may be better suited for the JX3 Hybrid, and another for a conventional hang-on stand. It all depends on the specific hunt and your experience on how you will be best able to accomplish your goals for that specific hunt.
That being said, in my opinion, there are many more instances to use the JX3 than to not. What’s the point of carrying in a lightweight saddle if you’re not going to enjoy yourself and can’t focus on the hunt? The JX3 Hybrid can do whatever conventional saddles can do. Sure it might just take slightly longer or be slightly more cumbersome, but not enough to make a big enough difference to sacrifice comfort. What’s the point of using a conventional saddle that will get you in a tree 10% faster and quieter only to get up in the tree for a fraction of the comfort?
Is The JX3 Hybrid Saddle Right For You?
Comfort
The JX3 Hybrid and conventional saddles are neck and neck in most cases. The key takeaway is that the JX3 Hybrid offers much better comfort. And in my opinion, comfort should be a high-value determining factor when purchasing a tree saddle. Comfort is what allows you to sit on-stand longer, which increases hunting success, and results in hunting enjoyment.
All-Day Hunts
Based on my experience with the JX3 Hybrid it is the best mobile option currently on the market for all-day sits and is what I choose to use in those scenarios.
When It’s Not Necessary to Use The JX3 Hybrid
Quick Hunts
If you’re only sitting for a few hours and need the most stealthy and mobile piece of equipment possible, a small fabric saddle is often the way to go. I killed a nice buck waiting for the conditions to be just right to sit one time. The conditions ended up being perfect 30 minutes before sunset which meant I had 1 hour of huntable light. I also had to walk a half-mile or so and get into a swamp. An hour is barely enough time to get uncomfortable in a conventional saddle. I wanted the lightest and quickest method to get in and out. A conventional fabric saddle was the way to go. I ended up killing that buck 5 minutes before legal shooting light was over.
JX3 Hybrid Final Thoughts
I made the switch from lightweight conventional fabric saddles to the JX3 Hybrid Saddle made by JX3 Outdoors I haven’t looked back. What’s the point of using a lightweight conventional saddle if you’re so uncomfortable you can’t enjoy yourself and can’t focus on the hunt?
In my opinion, the JX3 Hybrid tree saddle is one of the best saddles currently on the market right now. I’m excited to put this saddle to the test even further in upcoming hunting seasons.
If you’re interested in the JX3 Hybrid, you can find it by heading over to the JX3 Outdoors Website.
JX3 Hybrid Return Policy
JX3 Outdoors offers a 30-day money-back guarantee. The customer is only responsible for return shipping. I think it is fantastic that you can test this saddle and make sure that it is exactly what you are looking for, and if it is not you can return it.
Conclusion
If you have questions or comments you can leave them in the comments section below. I’ve also conducted hands-on reviews of other top saddles. For example, the Aero Hunter, Tethrd ESS, Cruzr XC, and Dryad Drey.
Don’t forget to check out my other Saddle Hunting Posts if you haven’t already:
Understanding deer anatomy is crucial both before and after taking a shot. It provides essential guidance on precise shot placement and the right approach to blood trailing a deer for both good and sub-par shots. This knowledge is fundamental for ethical hunting, ensuring a humane and swift kill, and making well-informed decisions when pursuing a deer after a shot, whether it was a good or bad shot.
You may have come across this article seeking answers after successfully hitting a deer, eager to determine the effectiveness of your shot. You’ll find the answers you’re looking for in this article.
Deer Vitals |Learn Where To Shoot A Deer Using Deer Anatomy
Heart
The heart is a fairly small organ and is one of the best places to shoot a deer for a few reasons:
The heart is slightly encompassed by the lungs.
The majority of the lungs are found directly above the heart.
Compensates for string jumping deer.
Deer will expire quickly.
Distance plays a role in where you should shoot a deer with a bow. At further distances, the deer can react to the sound of your bowstring when it’s shot. They instinctually load their legs to run, which makes it look like they are ducking the arrow.
Since the heart is the lowest vital organ in a deer, if you aim for the heart and the deer tries to duck your arrow, you’ll still often hit the lungs which is also a great place to shoot a deer.
If the deer doesn’t duck the arrow then you’ll hit the heart. Deer that are shot in the heart will generally fall within 100 yards. A good rule of thumb is waiting 1 hour after a heart shot with a bow before taking up the blood trail.
Lungs
The lungs are one of the quickest and most ethical places to shoot a deer for a few reasons:
They have a lot of capillaries and blood vessels.
Deer won’t be able to breathe after they’ve been shot.
Good blood trails.
The lungs are a large target.
As mentioned above, the lungs are another good spot to shoot a deer. Lungs have a lot of blood vessels and capillaries, the lungs need to have a lot of these because it helps animals assimilate oxygen. For this reason, a lot of bleeding will occur when the lungs are shot. Additionally, without the use of lungs, a deer cannot breathe for very long.
This combination leads deer to expire quickly and ethically. Deer usually don’t go more than 100 yards after a double-lung shot. A single lung shot is not as effective and the deer may run for a really long distance, and you may never find it.
When you’re aiming for the lungs always try to get both lungs. If you can only get a single lung because of the deer’s orientation, try to hit another vital organ in combination; such as the heart or liver.
A good rule of thumb is waiting for 1-hour after a double-lung shot with a bow before taking up the blood trail.
Liver
The liver is a decent place to shoot a deer with a bow, but it is never my goal to try to shoot the liver. I am always aiming for the heart and lungs. If the liver gets in the way then I consider that a bonus.
The liver is located behind the lungs and is sometimes hit by accident when aiming for the lungs. This can be a blessing when you think you’ve made a bad shot too far back toward the stomach.
Although it takes more time for the deer to expire than a heart or lung shot, it is still one of the quickest and most ethical places to shoot a deer.
When recovering a deer that has been shot in the liver a good rule of thumb is to wait 2-3 hours before taking up the blood trail.
Brain
The brain is another organ that when shot will drop a deer dead in its tracks. However, the brain is a very small target and if you end up missing the brain and wounding the deer in the head area it will likely be a slow and painful death for the deer.
For this reason, it is advised not to aim for the brain if there is potential for a better shot. Usually, there is if you wait for the deer to move to a better position.
If you’re very confident in your setup and have a very easy shot, the brain is one of the quickest and most ethical places to shoot a deer.
Spine
The spine is another organ that when hit will immediately drop a deer in its tracks. However, the spine is also a tough target to hit. If you end up missing the spine low you’ll often hit what is referred to as ‘no-mans land’ which is a spot between the spine and lungs that is just meat.
This will end up wounding the deer and most of the time these deer are not recoverable. For this reason, it is advised not to aim for the spine if there is potential for a better shot.
Almost always there is a better shot if you wait for the deer to move to a better position. If you’re very confident in your setup and have a good shot, the spine is one of the quickest and most ethical places to shoot a deer.
I would personally rather wait for a better shot at the lungs, heart, or liver.
High-Shoulder Scapula Shot
The high-shoulder or scapula shot is becoming a more popular place to shoot a deer because it will drop a deer dead in its tracks. This shot works well because the scapula bone is less thick than the shoulder joint.
This allows a bullet to break both shoulders easily. With both shoulders broken the deer is not able to run because it has lost the use of both of its front legs.
In addition, this shot is close to the lungs and the spine so if you don’t hit exactly where you want you’ll more than likely hit something else that is vital. The high shoulder scapula shot is a great place to shoot a deer for quick ethical kills.
Deer Anatomy| Where Not To Shoot A Deer
Shoulder Joint
A direct shot to the shoulder joint is not a good place to shoot a deer. The shoulder is a thick bone and bullets don’t always make it through the bone. This can wound a deer by breaking one leg and not hitting anything lethal or possibly puncturing only a single lung.
To get maximum penetration in order to hit the vitals, it is not recommended to shoot through the large bone of the shoulder joint.
Stomach & Intestines
Shooting a deer in the stomach and intestines should be avoided at all costs. A deer shot here will die but it will usually take 12 hours or so for the deer to expire. This a long and painful way to die for a deer, shooting a deer in the stomach is not an ethical shot. Sometimes accidents happen though and they can’t be avoided.
If you end up shooting a deer in the stomach the best thing you can do is to wait 12 hours and then pick up the track. It is almost guaranteed that the deer will lie down after getting shot in the stomach and will expire in its first bed if not disturbed.
If you start blood trailing too soon, the deer will run away from its bed and it will become exponentially harder to recover the deer. Normally, there will be no blood trail to follow when the deer is hit in the stomach.
Arteries & Veins
Just like all animals, deer have arteries and veins. And although it is deadly if you hit a deer in the main arteries or veins like the carotid or jugular, they are not very ethical shots to take because they are not easily visualized with the naked eye.
This makes them very hard to hit consistently. It is recommended to wait for a better shot. Consider it a bonus when arteries and veins are hit in addition to good shot placement.
Understanding deer anatomy is crucial for making proper shot placement and recovering deer effectively. If you have questions you can find links to where I can be reached below:
Maine has 3 species of ash trees; white ash, green ash, and black ash. In this post, you’ll learn how to identify and differentiate them.
How To Identify Ash Tree Species From Other Ash Trees
Once you’ve identified that a particular tree is an ash tree the next step is to identify which species of ash tree it is. Each species of ash has unique defining characteristics that separate them from other ash trees. Some characteristics are subtle and some are not so subtle. The characteristics used to identify ash trees are described below.
Characteristics For Identifying Ash Tree Species
Below I’ve listed some helpful characteristics that can be used to help identify ash trees to the species level:
Habitat
Height
Bark
Leaves
Buds
Twigs
Flowers
Fruit/Seeds
Roots
Native Distribution
1. Black Ash Trees (Fraxinus nigra)
Other Common Names
Black ash is also called brown ash, basket ash, and hoop ash
Key Identifying Characteristics
A key identifying feature of the black ash is the punky/spongy/flaky bark that other ash trees do not have. Age plays a role in how punky and flaky a black ash tree is. So just because it does not look very punky, don’t rule it out from being black ash, use some of the other identification features below as well.
Habitat
Black ash can easily be identified and distinguished from other ash species in a couple of ways. First, it is a wetland species and will almost always be found in wet areas. Black ash likes wetter soil than most ash trees so you will often find it where soils are saturated. It grows in cold regions in forested swamps.
Black ash tree habitat | Growing in wet soils
Height
Black ash trees will grow to about 60 ft tall but will have a fairly slender trunk. The trunk will rarely get more than 20 inches in diameter.
Bark
As mentioned above, an identifying feature of the black ash is the punky/spongy/flaky bark that other ash trees do not have. Age plays a role in how punky and flaky a black ash tree is. So just because it does not look very punky, don’t rule it out from being black ash, use some of these other identification features as well.
black ash tree bark
Leaves
The black ash tree typically has between 7-11 leaflets that make up a leaf. The leaf scar is only slightly notched which is more O-Shaped than the white or green ash.
White, Black, and Green Ash Leaf Scar Comparison. Photo From HereBlack ash tree leaves. Photo From Here
Roots
The roots of the black ash also have white dots/specks on them which other ash trees do not have. I’ve noticed that not all black ash will have obvious white dots, but if you do see them then you can confirm it’s a black ash tree. If you don’t see them use some of these other identifying features.
black ash tree roots and tree base (notice white dots)
Native Distribution
Black ash occurs in many northeastern U.S. states and in eastern Canada. The northernmost portion of black ash’s range extends from Newfoundland to southeastern Manitoba. Some populations have been observed in North Dakota which is the westernmost distribution. Black ash can be found in all of the Great Lake states the southern limit in northern Virginia.
Black Ash (Fraxinus nigra) Species Distribution Range Map
2. Green Ash Trees (Fraxinus pennsylvanica)
Green ash is the most common/widely distributed ash tree species in the United States and is also found commonly in Maine.
Other Common Names
Green ash is also called red ash, swamp ash, and water ash.
Habitat
Green ash can be found in wetlands, along the edges of wetlands, and in upland areas near wetlands in moist soil. Black ash also grows in wetlands but requires very wet soil.
Height
Green ash will grow to about 60 ft tall and will rarely exceed 24 inches in diameter, which is slightly larger than black ash.
Bark
Green ash bark has ridges and furrows. It is less fissured and furrowed than the white ash, but more fissured than the black ash. The ridges form a diamond-like shape. It is not punky/spongy and does not peel as black ash does.
Green Ash Tree Bark
Leaves
Green ash will have 5-9 leaflets that make up an entire leaf. It will most commonly have 7 leaflets. The leaves are 10 to 12 inches in length with individual leaflets 2 to 6 inches long. The leaflets are long-pointed at the tip with a tapering base. The top of the leaf scar is straight and is D-shaped, unlike white ash which has a deep U-Shape.
Fraxinus pennsylvanica (Green Ash) Leaves. Photo From HereWhite, Black, and Green Ash Leaf Scar Comparison. Photo From Here
Native Distribution
Green Ash Tree (Fraxinus pennsylvanica) Distribution Range Map
3. White Ash Trees (Fraxinus americana)
White ash is another species of ash that is commonly found in Maine and is widely distributed in the United States.
Other Common Names
White ash is also called purple ash, Biltmore ash, Biltmore white ash, cane ash, small-seed white ash.
Key Identifying Feature
The leaflets have a distinct, ¼ to 1/3-inch slender stalk that often has finely toothed edges, tapering to a pointed tip. The white ash also has a U-Shaped leaf scar notch which is different than the D-shape notch of the green ash, and the slightly notched black ash which is more O-Shaped.
White, Black, and Green Ash Leaf Scar Comparison. Photo From Here
Habitat
White ash trees prefer dry soils and will be found in dryer areas than black and green ash. White ash and green ash can be found close in proximity, however, white ash will be in the dryer soils and green ash will generally inhabit the wetter areas.
Height
This tree can grow to heights of about 120 ft and support a massive trunk to ~80 inches in diameter in optimal growing conditions.
Bark
The bark of the adult white ash is rough and has deep ridges and furrows that form a prominent diamond pattern. The bark looks similar to green ash but the ridges are even more prominent especially when mature as shown in the photo below.
White Ash Tree Bark
Leaves
White ash leaves are opposite and pinnately compound and are 8 to 12 inches long with 5 to 9 (usually 7) leaflets that are oval to elliptical. Leaflets are 2½ to 5 inches long and 1 to 2 inches wide. Leaflets attached by longer petioles. The base of each leaflet is well-defined. The leaflets have a distinct, ¼ to 1/3 inch slender stalk that often has finely toothed edges, tapering to a pointed tip. The top of the leaves are dark green and smooth, the bottoms are pale green with short hairs along the midvein and at the base of lateral veins.
The white ash also has a U-Shaped leaf scar notch which is different than the D-shape notch of the green ash, and the slightly notched black ash which is more O-Shaped.
Fraxinus americana (White Ash) Leaves. Photo From Here
Twigs and Buds
White ash twigs are stout with a gray-olive-green color and are hairless.
Flowers
Inconspicuous, meaning they’re not obvious. White ash has separate male and female plants of which their color is light green to purple, both sexes lacking petals. Female flowers occur in loose panicles, males occur in tighter clusters. The flowers appear after the leaves unfold.
Fruit
The fruits are winged samaras like all ash trees and develop in late May to June and mature in the fall. The samaras are one-winged, dry, flattened samara with a full, rounded, seed cavity, maturing in fall and dispersing over winter.
Native Distribution
In the distribution map below you can see that white ash is a widely distributed species and is one of the more common ash species found in the United States.
White Ash (Fraxinus americana) Distribution Range Map
Species Resembling Ash Trees (That Are Not Ash Trees)
By looking at the scientific names of these species you can tell right away that they are not actually true ash species. For example, Fraxinus is not shown in their scientific name, meaning they are not classified as true ash species, despite some of the names having ‘ash’ in them.
American Mountain Ash Tree (Sorbus americana)
Not to be confused with Texas ash (which is an ash tree) and is also called mountain ash.
European Mountain Ash (sorbus aucuparia)
Boxelder Tree (Acer negundo)
Shagbark Hickory Tree (Carya ovata)
Elm Tree (Ulmus species)
Black Walnut Tree (Juglans nigra)
Prickly Ash Tree (Zanthoxylum americanum)
Conclusion
Hopefully, you found this Maine ash tree identification guide helpful. If you have questions or comments leave them in the comments below and I will do my best to address them.
For more information on identifying ash trees, check out my other posts:
Ash tree leaves are unique and can be used to identify ash trees from other trees. In this post, you’ll learn what they look like so that you’ll be able to differentiate ashes from other trees.
Before you can identify which type of ash tree you are looking at, you first need to be able to identify ash from other common trees. For example, you need to distinguish ash trees from maples, oaks, birches…etc. So, how do you do this?
The answer is; all ash trees have the same or very similar over-arching characteristics. These characteristics include: branches, bud arrangement, leaves, bark, and seeds. These are the main features that can be used to identify ash trees. One of the best ways to identify an ash tree from other trees is by their leaves.
Ash Trees Have Opposite Leaves, Branches, and Buds
All ash trees (Fraxinus) have opposite leaves and branching (which is a good identifying feature because not many trees have this). Opposite branching/buds are when the branches, buds, and leaves are directly across from one another on the tree trunk or stem, as opposed to alternate branching which is staggered branches up the trunk or stem.
Alternate vs Opposite Leaf Arrangement. Photo From Here
Ash Trees Have Pinnately Compound Leaves
Another good identifying feature for ash trees (Fraxinus) is that they have pinnatelycompound leaves. This means one compound leaf is made up of many leaflets (mini-leaves) that form a larger leaf. There is a range of 5-11 leaflets that make up a leaf of an ash tree generally. This is a good identifying feature because boxelder (Acer negundo) is the only other tree that has compound leaves. So, if you see a tree with compound leaves there is a good chance it is an ash tree.
Pinnately Compound Leaves vs simple leaves. Photo From Here.
Parts Of Ash Tree Leaves
The photo below is a simple diagram of the parts of an ash tree leaf. This will be helpful to know when talking about ash tree leaves.
17 Species of Ash Tree Leaves | Examples With Pictures
1. Black Ash Leaves (Fraxinus nigra)
White, Black, and Green Ash Leaf Scar Comparison. Photo From HereBlack ash tree leaves. Photo From Here
The black ash tree typically has between 7-11 leaflets that make up a leaf. The leaf scar is only slightly notched which is more O-Shaped than the white or green ash.
2. Green Ash Leaves (Fraxinus pennsylvanica)
Green ash will have 5-9 leaflets that make up an entire leaf. It will most commonly have 7 leaflets. The leaves are 10 to 12 inches in length with individual leaflets 2 to 6 inches long. The leaflets are long-pointed at the tip with a tapering base. The top of the leaf scar is straight and is D-shaped, unlike white ash which has a deep U-Shape.
Fraxinus pennsylvanica (Green Ash) Leaves. Photo From Here
White, Black, and Green Ash Leaf Scar Comparison. Photo From Here
3. White Ash Leaves (Fraxinus americana)
White ash leaves are opposite and pinnately compound and are 8 to 12 inches long with 5 to 9 (usually 7) leaflets that are oval to elliptical. Leaflets are 2½ to 5 inches long and 1 to 2 inches wide. Leaflets attached by longer petioles. The base of each leaflet is well-defined. The leaflets have a distinct, ¼ to 1/3 inch slender stalk that often has finely toothed edges, tapering to a pointed tip. The top of the leaves are dark green and smooth, the bottoms are pale green with short hairs along the midvein and at the base of lateral veins.
The white ash also has a U-Shaped leaf scar notch which is different than the D-shape notch of the green ash, and the slightly notched black ash which is more O-Shaped.
Fraxinus americana (White Ash) Leaves. Photo From HereWhite, Black, and Green Ash Leaf Scar Comparison. Photo From Here
4. Blue Ash Leaves (Fraxinus quadrangulata)
The leaves are 8 to 12 inches long with 7 to 11 leaflets, 3 to 5 inches long, oval or lance-shaped, and with toothed margins.
The leaves of Pumpkin ash are a glossy green and can get up to 40 cm (15.7 in) long and are odd-pinnate with 5-9 leaflets that are hairy on the bottoms. The single leaves are oval but pointed at the tip. The leaf margin is serrated.
The pinnately compound leaves have 5 to 9 leaflets and are 7 to 12 inches long. Leaflets are 2 to 4 inches long and 2 inches across with a usually serrated margin but sometimes entire. The upperside is dark green and the underside is paler and smooth. The overall feel is thick and smooth.
Top and bottom of Carolina Ash Tree (Fraxinus caroliniana) leaves. Notice the lighter bottoms. Photo From Here.
7. European Ash Leaves (Fraxinus excelsior L.)
European ash leaves are opposite, 20–35 cm (7.9–13.8 in) long, pinnately compound, with 7–13 leaflets with coarsely serrated margins, elliptic to narrowly elliptic, 3–12 cm (1.2–4.7 in) long, and 0.8–3 cm (0.31–1.18 in) broad and sessile on the leaf rachis. There are no stipules.
These features distinguish ash from European mountain ash (Sorbus aucuparia) in which the leaves are alternate with paired stipules. The leaves are often among the last to open in spring, and the first to fall in autumn if an early frost strikes; they often fall dull green or develop a bright yellow autumn color.
8. Oregon Ash Leaves (Fraxinus latifolia)
Oregon Ash has pinnately compound leaves like all ashes. The leaves are 4 3⁄4–13 in long, with 5–9 leaflets attached oppositely in pairs on the rachis with one additional leaflet at the tip (common for ash trees). Each leaflet is oval-shaped and is about, 2 1⁄4 – 4 3⁄4 inches long and 1 1⁄8 –1 5⁄8 inches broad which is bigger than most other ashes. The leaves are noticeably lighter green than other species found in the same areas. The leaves will turn bright yellow and fall off early in autumn.
Oregon Ash Tree (Fraxinus latifolia) Leaves and fruit. Photo From Here.
9. Gregg’s Ash leaves (Fraxinus greggii)
Gregg’s ash has distinctive nearly evergreen leaves that are 1-3 in. They are long and are pinnately compound (like all ashes), lightly toothed, dark-green, and leathery which are found in threes, but up to seven small leaflets. The small size of these leaves is a unique characteristic of this ash tree making it a good identifier of this species.
Gregg’s Ash Tree (Fraxinus greggii): Evergreen Leaves. Photo From Here.
10. Arizona Ash Leaves (Fraxinus velutina)
The leaves are 4 to 10-inches long, pinnately compound with 3, 5, or 7 leaflets 1.5-3 inches or longer with serrated edges. The leaflets can be slightly different shapes and often have velvety hairs beneath which is the reason for one of the many common names “Velvet ash”. However, velvety hairs may not always be present. The foliage will turn yellow in the autumn.
Arizona ash (Fraxinus velutina) leaf. Commonly is tomentose (has small velvety hairs). Photo From Here.
11. Evergreen Ash Leaves (Fraxinus uhdei)
Evergreen ash tree leaflets are similar to other ash trees in that they are pinnately compound, odd in number, and are dark green. The leaves differ from other ash trees because they are partly evergreen as the same suggests. Although, some leaves will still fall off.
Mountain ash leaves are opposite with pinnately compound leaflets like all ashes and are 5″ to 8″ long. The leaves hold 5 to 7 oval to round leaflets. leaflets are long-stalked and 1″ to 3″ long. The leaf color is dark green on top and lighter green on the bottom.
Texas ash has “C-shaped” leaf scars where the bud sits within the cup of the “C”, very similar to white ash.
Mountain ash (Texas albicans) C-Shaped Leaf Scar. Photo From Here.
13. California Ash Leaves (Fraxinus dipetala)
Like all ashes, the leaves are pinnately compound. The leaves are between 2 – 7.5 inches long, light to dark green, with three to seven (rarely nine) leaflets that are usually between 0.4 – 2.75 inches long. The leaves are also thick and serrated along the margins.
The leaves are in opposite pairs or whorls of three, pinnate, and 6–10 inches long. Each leaf consists of 3 – 13 leaflets which are distinctively slender as the name suggests. The leaflets are about 1.2–3 inches long and 1–1.5 cm broad. The margins of the leaves are toothed (i.e. serrated). The leaves will turn a yellowish color in autumn.
Leaves opposite and pinnately compound, but uniquely often have whorls of 3 or 4 at ends of branches. There are usually 5-9 narrow leaflets with each consisting of about 4-6.5 cm long. They are dark green during the growing season and a vibrant red-purple color in the fall.
Raywood ash tree (Fraxinus angustifolia ‘Raywood’) red leaves and foliage. Photo From Here.
16. Manna Ash Leaves (Fraxinus ornus)
The leaves are in opposite pairs and pinnately compound. They are, 8–12 inches long and can have 5 to 9 leaflets which are oval shaped and 0.2–0.4 inches long and 0.8–2 in wide. The veins on the underside are usually hairy at the base. The margins of the leaflets are finely serrated with a wavy margin. The petioles are short but distinct, they are around 0.20–0.60 inches long. In the fall the leaves can range from yellowish to purplish. The leaf buds are grey, pinkish-brown, brown, with short grey hairs unlike those of the European Ash which are black.
17. Manchurian Ash Leaves (Fraxinus mandshurica)
Like all ashes, the leaves are pinnately compound and are about 10-15 inches long. The leaflets can number anywhere from 7-13 and are 5-20 cm long, and 2-5 cm wide and are obviously toothed and nearly stalkless. The leaves turn a beautiful yellow-chrome color in the fall.
Manchurian Ash Trees (Fraxinus mandshurica) leaves. Photo From Here.
How To Identify Ash Tree Species From Other Ash Trees
Once you’ve identified that a particular tree is an ash tree with the information above, the next step is to identify which species of ash tree it is. Using ash tree leaves to identify an ash tree to a particular species is more tricky because most ash trees have very similar leaves. For this reason, other characteristics should be used to further identify ash trees to an individual species.
Each species of ash has unique defining characteristics that separate them from other ash trees. Some characteristics are subtle and some are not so subtle. The list of characteristics used to identify ash trees to species is described below.
Characteristics For Identifying Ash Tree Species
Below I’ve listed some helpful characteristics that can be used to help identify ash trees to the species level:
You’ll want to know these saddle hunting pros and cons if you’re thinking about switching from conventional treestands to saddle hunting to determine if saddle hunting is right for you.
If you’re new to tree saddle hunting and are looking for tree saddle suggestions, you may find my tree saddle reviews helpful:
This post contains Amazon and other affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my link, at no extra cost to you. Of course, you are not obligated to use my links, but it does help fund these posts in hopes of bringing more value to you!
Table of Contents
Saddle Hunting 101 | What Is Tree Saddle Hunting?
A tree saddle is basically a safety harness on steroids and it is worn while hunting and used instead of a conventional treestand like a climber or ladder stand. It features more padding and high adjustability to allow hunters of most shapes and sizes to sit comfortably for long hours while hunting.
Tree Saddle Hunting For Beginners | Parts of a Tree Saddle – Tree Saddle Diagram
Tree saddles are typically made with high-strength fabric and rope with carabiners which make up a tree rope that goes around your tree of choice, a bridge rope that attaches to this tree rope, a lineman’s belt, and of course the saddle itself (see picture below).
In a tree saddle, you are tied to a tree and you are semi-suspended facing toward the tree. To maneuver around the tree you must have some sort of platform which is usually not included with the purchase of tree saddles currently on the market.
Saddle Hunting Pros
1. Imperfect Tree Set-ups
Tree saddles allow you to get around trees that are full of branches without ever having to completely detach from the tree. This allows me to climb ugly trees that are full of branches during run and gun setups. This ensures you can be in the right spot, rather than having to settle for another tree further from where the action is. You can also hunt trees that are leaning. With a higher selection of trees available you can put yourself into better positions, making hunts more successful.
Tree Saddle Hunting | Climbing With Multiple Linesman’s Belts
2. Tree Size Adjustability
Tree saddles also you to climb trees of any size that will support your weight. I have found this to be important in swamps where vegetation is stunted. Being able to hunt smaller trees gives you the ability to hunt where other hunters cannot. You can also hunt trees as large as the linesman and tree rope will reach. I shot my 2017 buck in a white pine that was around 30” in diameter. If you need to hunt larger trees you can purchase your own ropes to meet your needs, but the standard ropes that come with the tree saddles are usually plenty.
3. Cost-Effective
Once you buy a tree saddle you will not have to buy another treestand, making it very cost-effective. It replaces the reason for buying multiple permanent stands like ladder or hang-on stands. Doing this will be costly over time. This is how I think about cost-effectiveness: One tree saddle = an infinite number of treestands. Five hang-on or ladder stands = five treestands.
4. Multiple Stands
I have personally noticed and most successful big buck killers agree that hunting the same treestand repeatedly will quickly burn out spots and that the first couple sits are the most effective. This makes permanent ladder and hang-on stands easy to over-hunt and for big bucks to pattern you. For this reason it is best to hunt permanent stands when conditions are perfect for that particular treestand. This will increase success of particular treestands by keeping them fresh until the timing is right. Hunting only when conditions are perfect, however, greatly reduces the time you are able to hunt.
If you’re like me you’re going to hunt every chance you get one way or another, so being restricted like this was not going to cut it for me. I needed a better option. To increase my success I needed to be able to spread out my hunting pressure within multiple high-odd locations and hunt them when conditions were right in order to keep my stands fresh.
With tree saddles, I am able to hunt any location because the saddle comes home with me after every hunt. It is simple and easy to set-up so I can avoid hunting the same trees over and over keeping them fresh, making each hunt essentially the “first sit”, keeping big bucks from patterning me.
5. Increased Maneuverability
My Ameristep Tree Step platform placed around the diameter of the tree enables me to shoot a full 360º around the tree as well as directly underneath. Big bucks often don’t come in where you expect. Other treestands don’t offer this type of maneuverability, being able to maneuver like this puts the hunter in control so he or she can take shots when they are presented. You can also change your vertical height slightly if you need to shoot just above or below a branch. This is done by fully extending my legs from my platform as it raises my elevation a few inches. Scrunching up close to the tree lowers my elevation.
Tree Saddle Hunting Offers Increased Maneuverability By Using Platforms
6. Stealthier
There is very little metal on tree saddles because everything else is rope and fabric. The carabiners are the largest pieces of metal. Some small strap adjusters are made of metal as well. Out of the box saddles are pretty quiet, much quieter than conventional treestands that are made entirely of metal. To make my saddles silent I usually add some tape to all of the metal pieces and that works well. I feel much more confident in my approach when setting up in bedding areas with a tree saddle rather than a metal stand.
When tree saddle hunting you can keep the tree between you and the animals you’re hunting so they can’t see you.
7. Better Portability
Tree saddles don’t weigh much, usually around 5 lbs or so, making them incredibly lightweight. Additionally, it is fabric so it can easily be rolled up into a small bag and placed into a backpack. It can also be worn to the treestand which is what I prefer, I drape the ropes over my shoulders when walking to my stand making transportation simple and noise-free.
This is how much my Aero Hunter Tree Saddle weighs in-bag, with a homemade back-band, and applied silencing applications.
8. Better Concealment
Another great benefit of saddles is they enable you to use the tree you’re in to block the view of approaching animals. If animals are coming from a certain direction I can move to the opposite side of the tree to stay hidden. Since you are facing the tree you can straddle yourself right up tight against the tree. Another perk is that since you do not have to cut limbs down to get to where you want to hunt on a tree you can leave some natural cover to blend in better.
9. Added Comfort
Tree saddles are comfortable compared to metal stands. Even when in awkward leaning trees the saddles remain fairly comfortable. Adjustable straps located on the back and leg portions of the saddle allow for customized pressure point relief. After a few hours I do start to squirm a little from the pressure of the saddle fabric, it can pinch circulation so I am regularly readjusting after being on stand for a few hours.
Here you can see buckles and prusik knots which can be adjusted to fit individuals nicely. The saddle forms well with my body for comfortable long sits on stand.
Some saddles come with back bands for reclining. The back band is fantastic for long sits in the tree as your back does tend to get tired over time without one. I have sat in the stand for around 12 hours a couple of times and I do start to ache, but I am able to extend my legs, stretch, maneuver, and change position to lessen the burden. Sitting anywhere for 12 hours would make anyone squirm. I have not been able to sit nearly this long in other conventional treestands.
JX3 Hybrid Tree Saddle Offers Reclining Comfort
10. Theft Prevention
Theft can be a problem on public lands, and even on private land! The peace of mind of bringing the tree saddle home at the end of the day is huge for me. There’s nothing worse than getting excited about going hunting only to find your stand missing. With the tree saddles, this is not a problem. Additionally, not having a bulky ladder or hang-on stand permanently placed on a tree prevents treestand locations from being discovered by other hunters.
11. Increased Safety
In my opinion, the tree saddles are just as safe, if not safer than traditional treestands.
When used properly you are harnessed to the tree throughout the entire climb. When ascending the tree you are harnessed in with the lineman’s belt. Once you get to the height at which you will be hunting you’ll need to also use the lineman’s belt to place the tree rope. The lineman’s belt allows for a quick, painless and safe installation of the tree rope. Once the tree rope is secure to the tree you can attach yourself to it via carbineer. Once attached, the lineman’s belt can be removed. To descend the tree reverse the process. It is quite simple.
If you encounter tree limbs that your lineman’s belt cannot get around you can set up the tree saddle as you would to hunt, as I just mentioned, then remove your lineman’s belt and re-attach the belt above the limb and carry on your way up the tree, thus being attached to the tree 100% of the time. A second lineman’s belt could also be added to climb branched trees even quicker.
I’ve often found myself getting lazy and not wearing, or forgetting to bring a safety harness when using a conventional ladder and hang on stands. Tree saddles leave you no option. To climb the tree fast and effectively you must be harnessed in at all times.
Saddle Hunting Cons
Before switching to tree saddle hunting, beginners should consider some aspects:
1. Video
I have never done any videotaping while hunting, but it is something I am considering. I am not sure how difficult videotaping would be, but I imagine the footage would be shaky while semi-suspended from the tree.
2. Weight
A person’s size may also affect their ability to stay in a tree saddle for long periods of time. I am a skinny dude 6’4 and 155lbs and it works great for me. Larger hunters may find it causes more strain at pressure points.
3. Practice
It takes a little bit of practice to use tree saddles effectively. For beginners, tree saddle hunting may seem awkward at first. It does take practice. For me, it felt a little awkward at first with the bridge rope getting in the way of pulling my bow back. Switching sides of the tree to shoot can be difficult too because you have to get a bow, with a knocked arrow, around the bridge.
Target practicing in different scenarios while in your tree saddle will help you figure out how to make shots count in the most awkward of situations. I highly recommend practicing like this.
4. Knee Pads
Personally, I don’t use knee pads when hunting with tree saddles, but many people do. The reason being is; as your knees press against the trunk of the tree for long periods they get sore, especially if the bark is ridged. Also, over time, I could see the bark wearing holes in the cloth of your pants at the knees. Knee pads would be a good solution for this. I alternate between straddling the tree trunk and using my knees to keep my knees from getting too sore.
5. Smell
Out of the box, the fabric and rope may have a chemical-like, factory-processed type smell. It is not a bad smell, but to a whitetail, it is strong and not natural. It took a while to get the smell out, I think it was from the dye of the saddle. I tried soaking everything in warm water and baking soda, I also let it soak in scent-killer laundry detergent which helps a little, but not much.
What I observed was the excess coloring of the fabric would come off in the water a little bit after every wash. This was evidenced by the dark tint of the water post-wash. I believe the smell is related to the coloring used because after each wash the smell reduced ever so slightly every time. Each time I washed the saddle less color would come off.
It took about a year for the scent to reduce to a point where I could not notice it. After washing a dozen times or so, letting it dry/air out outside for weeks, and practicing and hunting with it in the elements the scent has finally dissipated enough so that I don’t notice it anymore. I still wash and soak the system in scent-killer laundry detergent before each season, and sometimes during the season.
This experience will vary depending on which saddle you choose.
How to Climb & Setup In a Tree Saddle
Mobile Climbing Sticks
There are many ways to climb a tree using a tree saddle. One of the most common ways for saddle hunters is using a set of climbing sticks. They are lightweight, mobile, very easy to use, and only take a few minutes to get high up into a tree. In addition, there is a lot of custom saddle hunting gear out there that lets you customize your sticks to maximize their effectiveness.
Ameristep Screw-In Tree Steps
I also really like Ameristep screw-in steps (below). However, they can’t be used on public land or without permission on private land (in most states anyway). But I have a few trees in areas that are productive year-after-year as well as permission. On these properties, I prepare my trees ahead of hunting season using these screw-in steps. This way I don’t need to carry my Lone Wolf Sticks into the tree-stand during hunting season. This makes setting up even faster, quieter, and easier. On average it usually takes about 12 steps to make one treestand plus 4 more for the platform ring for a total of 16 steps.
Ameristep Screw-In Steps
Tree Saddle Hunting Platforms
Saddles are used in combination with platforms. Platforms are objects that are placed around the diameter of the tree at the height you want to stand. The purpose for the platforms is to give your feet something to rest and maneuver on while you’re in your saddle.
There are two types of platforms – ring of steps platforms and single-piece platforms. There are many versions of these platforms on the market. I suggest looking at all the options and deciding which might be best suited for your hunting style.
What Are The Best Tree Saddles?
In recent years there has been an increase in the number of tree saddles on the market. I haven’t been able to try all of them but I have tried many of the best. I’ve even done a handful of hands-on reviews: New Tribe Aero Hunter, JX3 Hybrid, Tethrd ESS, Cruzr XC, and Dryad Drey.
How Much Do Tree Saddles Cost?
Tree saddles are not inexpensive, but they make up for their money fast because you don’t need to keep buying them like other stands. Tree saddles range approximately from 200$-400$ with everything included. Platform prices range because there are so many of them out there. The Ameristep Tree Steps that I use are around 2-3$ apiece, and I rarely use more than 5 per tree. So for 15$, you can have more than an ideal platform.
Conclusion
In my experience, tree saddle hunting is the safest, most lightweight, and versatile option on the market as far as treestands are concerned. This makes tree saddle hunting an excellent option for all hunters. If you’re looking to take your hunting success to the next level saddle hunting is a great option to consider.
Ash tree species are easy to identify once you know what to look for. Learn how to identify ash trees and differentiate ash species by using this field guide. In this post you’ll learn how to:
Differentiate ash trees from other tree species (maples, oaks, beech…etc)
How to tell ash tree species apart (white ash, green ash, black ash…etc)
Learn trees that are commonly mistaken for ash trees but that are actually not ash trees (like American mountain ash trees despite the name).
Let’s jump in…
Table of Contents
How Many Species of Ash Trees Are There?
Within the ash tree genus (Fraxinus), there are about 45-65 species of trees (according to Wikipedia). I’m not going to cover ALL of these, I am going to cover the 17 most common ash trees that you are most likely to encounter or have questions about to save you time.
How To Identify An Ash Tree
Ash Tree Classification
First off, it helps to have a brief understanding of the taxonomic classification hierarchy of the ash species. You might not know it but you’re probably already quite familiar with this classification system.
For example, the botanical/scientific/ Latin names of plants are the genus and species levels of the classification system. Typically plants are identified using family, genus, and then species-level classifications. The higher classifications are unnecessary for basic identification purposes because the classifications become too broad (see photo below).
Ash Tree Taxonomic Classification
If the above information confused you at all, don’t worry! All you need to remember is that Fraxinus is an umbrella term that encompasses all ash tree species (white ash, green ash, black ash…etc).
How To Identify An Ash Tree From Other Common Trees
Before you can identify which type of ash tree you are looking at, you first need to be able to identify ash from other common trees. For example, you need to distinguish ash trees from maples, oaks, birches…etc. So, how do you do this?
The answer is all ash trees have the same or very similar over-arching characteristics. Characteristics such as branches, bud arrangement, leaves, bark, and seeds are main features that can be used to identify ash trees. These are discussed in the following paragraphs.
Ash Tree Branches & Buds
All ash trees (Fraxinus) have opposite branching (which is a good identifying feature because not many trees have this). Opposite branching/buds are when the branches and buds are directly across from one another from the tree trunk as opposed to alternate branching which is staggered branches up the trunk.
Alternate vs Opposite Leaf Arrangement. Photo From Here
Another good identifying feature for ash trees (Fraxinus) is that they have compound leaves. One compound leaf is made up of many leaflets (mini-leaves) that form a larger leaf. There is a range of 5-11 leaflets that make up a leaf of an ash tree. This is a good identifying feature because boxelder (Acer negundo) is the only other tree that has compound leaves. So, if you see a tree with compound leaves there is a good chance it is an ash tree.
Pinnately Compound Leaves vs simple leaves. Photo From Here.
Ash Tree Bark
The bark of ash trees is a great way to distinguish ash trees from other species of trees. Although not every ash shares the same bark characteristics, many of them do. It is also important to note that mature trees and young trees will have different looking bark. So keep this in mind when identifying ash trees. In many instances, mature ash trees will have diamond-shaped bark ridges or fissures. The younger trees have not developed the armor of older trees and will have thin smooth bark in most instances.
Ash Tree Bark – Many ash trees have bark that is furrowed/grooved and diamond-shaped. This is an example of a green ash tree.
Ash Tree Fruits
Ash tree fruits are seeds in the form of samaras. Seeds are only visible at certain times of the year and will fall off in late fall & early winter but are a great way to identify an ash tree. The seeds are found in clusters of oar-shaped pods called samaras. You may know these as “helicopters’.
How To Identify Ash Tree Species From Other Ash Trees
Once you’ve identified that a particular tree is an ash tree with the information above, the next step is to identify which species of ash tree it is. Each species of ash has unique defining characteristics that separate them from other ash trees. Some characteristics are subtle and some are not so subtle. The characteristics used to identify ash trees are described below.
Characteristics For Identifying Ash Tree Species
Below I’ve listed some helpful characteristics that can be used to help identify ash trees to the species level:
Habitat
Height
Bark
Leaves
Buds
Twigs
Flowers
Fruit/Seeds
Roots
Native Distribution
Identifying 17 Common Ash Tree Species
I have made a list of the 17 most common ash trees below. This will make it much easier and faster to identify a particular ash tree to the species level.
Ash trees have different distributions/regions they can be found in. For this reason, some of the ash trees listed may not be found in the area that you’re currently residing in. I have separated the ash trees by where they are distributed which will narrow down your search. This will make identifying ash trees much easier, let’s jump in:
Ash Trees Of The Eastern United States
1. How To Identify Black Ash Trees (Fraxinus nigra)
Other Common Names
Black ash is also called brown ash, basket ash, and hoop ash
Key Identifying Characteristics
A key identifying feature of the black ash is the punky/spongy/flaky bark that other ash trees do not have. Age plays a role in how punky and flaky a black ash tree is. So just because it does not look very punky, don’t rule it out from being black ash, use some of the other identification features below as well.
Habitat
Black ash can easily be identified and distinguished from other ash species in a couple of ways. First, it is a wetland species and will almost always be found in wet areas. Black ash likes wetter soil than most ash trees so you will often find it where soils are saturated. It grows in cold regions in forested swamps.
Black ash tree habitat | Growing in wet soils
Height
Black ash trees will grow to about 60 ft tall but will have a fairly slender trunk. The trunk will rarely get more than 20 inches in diameter.
Bark
As mentioned above, an identifying feature of the black ash is the punky/spongy/flaky bark that other ash trees do not have. Age plays a role in how punky and flaky a black ash tree is. So just because it does not look very punky, don’t rule it out from being black ash, use some of these other identification features as well.
black ash tree bark
Leaves
White, Black, and Green Ash Leaf Scar Comparison. Photo From HereBlack ash tree leaves. Photo From Here
The black ash tree typically has between 7-11 leaflets that make up a leaf. The leaf scar is only slightly notched which is more O-Shaped than the white or green ash.
Roots
The roots of the black ash also have white dots/specks on them which other ash trees do not have. I’ve noticed that not all black ash will have obvious white dots, but if you do see them then you can confirm it’s a black ash tree. If you don’t see them use some of these other identifying features.
black ash tree roots and tree base (notice white dots)
Native Distribution
Black ash occurs in many northeastern U.S. states and in eastern Canada. The northernmost portion of black ash’s range extends from Newfoundland to southeastern Manitoba. Some populations have been observed in North Dakota which is the westernmost distribution. Black ash can be found in all of the Great Lake states the southern limit in northern Virginia.
Black Ash (Fraxinus nigra) Species Distribution Range Map
2. How To Identify Green Ash Trees (Fraxinus pennsylvanica)
Green ash is the most common/widely distributed ash tree species in the United States.
Other Common Names
Green ash is also called red ash, swamp ash, and water ash.
Habitat
Green ash trees like moist soils but not as saturated as black ash trees. Green ash can be found in wetlands, along the edges of wetlands, and in upland areas near wetlands in moist soil.
Height
Green ash will grow to about 60 ft tall and will rarely exceed 24 inches in diameter, which is slightly larger than black ash.
Bark
Green ash bark has ridges and furrows. It is less fissured and furrowed than the white ash, but more fissured than the black ash. The ridges form a diamond-like shape. It is not punky/spongy and does not peel as black ash does.
Green Ash Tree Bark
Leaves
Green ash will have 5-9 leaflets that make up an entire leaf. It will most commonly have 7 leaflets. The leaves are 10 to 12 inches in length with individual leaflets 2 to 6 inches long. The leaflets are long-pointed at the tip with a tapering base. The top of the leaf scar is strait and is D-Shaped, unlike white ash which has a deep U-Shape.
Fraxinus pennsylvanica (Green Ash) Leaves. Photo From Here
White, Black, and Green Ash Leaf Scar Comparison. Photo From Here
Native Distribution
Green Ash Tree (Fraxinus pennsylvanica) Distribution Range Map
3. How To Identify White Ash Trees (Fraxinus americana)
White ash is another species of ash that is commonly found and widely distributed in the United States.
Other Common Names
White ash is also called purple ash, Biltmore ash, Biltmore white ash, cane ash, small-seed white ash.
Key Identifying Feature
The leaflets have a distinct, ¼ to 1/3-inch slender stalk that often has finely toothed edges, tapering to a pointed tip. The white ash also has a U-Shaped leaf scar notch which is different than the D-shape notch of the green ash, and the slightly notched black ash which is more O-Shaped.
White, Black, and Green Ash Leaf Scar Comparison. Photo From Here
Habitat
White ash trees prefer dry soils and will be found in dryer areas than black and green ash. White ash and green ash can be found close in proximity, however white ash will be in the dryer soils and green ash will generally inhabiting the wetter areas.
Height
This tree can grow to heights of about 120 ft and support a massive trunk to ~80 inches in diameter in optimal growing conditions.
Bark
The bark of the adult white ash is rough and has deep ridges and furrows that form a prominent diamond pattern. The bark looks similar to green ash but the ridges are even more prominent especially when mature as shown in the photo below.
White Ash Tree Bark
Leaves
White ash leaves are opposite and pinnately compound and are 8 to 12 inches long with 5 to 9 (usually 7) leaflets that are oval to elliptical. Leaflets are 2½ to 5 inches long and 1 to 2 inches wide. Leaflets attached by longer petioles. The base of each leaflet is well-defined. The leaflets have a distinct, ¼ to 1/3 inch slender stalk that often has finely toothed edges, tapering to a pointed tip. The top of the leaves are dark green and smooth, the bottoms are pale green with short hairs along the midvein and at the base of lateral veins.
The white ash also has a U-Shaped leaf scar notch which is different than the D-shape notch of the green ash, and the slightly notched black ash which is more O-Shaped.
Fraxinus americana (White Ash) Leaves. Photo From Here
Twigs and Buds
White ash twigs are stout with a gray-olive-green color and are hairless.
Flowers
Inconspicuous, meaning they’re not obvious. White ash has separate male and female plants of which their color is light green to purple, both sexes lacking petals. Female flowers occur in loose panicles, males occur in tighter clusters. The flowers appear after the leaves unfold.
Fruit
The fruits are winged samaras like all ash trees and develop in late May to June and mature in the fall. The samaras are one-winged, dry, flattened samara with a full, rounded, seed cavity, maturing in fall and dispersing over winter.
Native Distribution
In the distribution map below you can see that white ash is a widely distributed species and is one of the more common ash species found in the United States.
White Ash (Fraxinus americana) Distribution Range Map
4. How To Identify Blue Ash Trees (Fraxinus quadrangulata)
The blue ash tree got its common name from its inner bark that will turn blue when it is exposed to air. This color was extracted to make dye.
Other Common Names
Fraxinus quadrangulata is exclusively referred to as blue ash.
Key Identifying Feature
A key identifying feature of the blue ash is its distinctive 4-angled corky wings on the stem and twigs which makes the stem appear square.
Blue Ash tree stems and branches are 4-angled. Photo From Here
Habitat
Blue ash prefers to grow in dry upland soils, it is commonly found growing on limestone.
Height
Blue ash is a medium-sized deciduous tree and can reach heights of 75 feet with a trunk 35-inch diameter in ideal growing conditions.
Bark
Blue ash bark is rough and scaly, forming a plate-like structure. This is somewhat similar to black ash bark but not quite as punky in most cases. You’ll be able to tell which ash it is based on the habitat it is growing in (upland vs wetland).
Like all ash, the fruit is a winged samara. The blue ash samara is 1 to 2 inches long and hangs in clusters. Samaras fall from the tree over several weeks in autumn.
Flowers
Blue ash has bisexual flowers that bloom as leaves emerge. The tiny, purple, petal-less flowers hang in loose panicles.
As mentioned above the twigs typically have four corky ridges which is a defining feature of the blue ash. This gives twigs a square look, the name quadrangulata actually means four-angled.
Native Distribution
Blue ash is not as commonly found in the U.S. Its native distribution is confined to the midwest as shown in the distribution map below.
Blue Ash Tree (Fraxinus quadrangulata) Distribution Range Map
5. How To Identify Pumpkin Ash Trees (Fraxinus profunda)
Pumpkin ash could be confused with white ash because they share similar characteristics. However, white ash grows in uplands whereas pumpkin ash grows in wetlands.
Other Common Names
The other common names include red ash or swell-butt ash.
Key Identification Features
The term pumpkin ash comes from the pumpkin-shaped swollen trunk (buttressed) that can often be found at the base of the tree. The swelling of the trunk occurs most commonly in the wettest areas such as in standing water. The branches of pumpkin ash are gray-brown with distinct leaf scars, leaf scars are oval (not deeply notched). The leaves are compound like all ashes, with 7-9 stalked elliptic leaflets. The leaves and rachis are densely hairy. The fruit is a large winged samara (4-7 cm long and 7-10 mm broad) which is the largest of any ash species.
Pumpkin ash fruit is a large winged samara which is the largest of any ash species. Photo From Here.
Habitat
Similar to black ash, pumpkin ash has a natural habitat of consistently wet areas such as swamps, floodplains, river valleys, and other low areas.
Height
Pumpkin ash is a tall tree at maturity and can reach up to 125 ft tall and 6 ft in diameter but is typically 60-80 ft at maturity.
The bark is pretty characteristic of ash tree species but slightly less diamond-shaped perhaps. It’s rough, forming rectangular blocks, the irregular furrows deep and only vaguely diamond-patterned. Bark becomes more fissured with age, young trees do not have much if any fissuring.
Pumpkin Ash Tree (Fraxinus profunda) bark of young tree. Photo From Here.
Pumpkin Ash Tree (Fraxinus profunda) bark of mature tree. Photo From Here.
Twigs & Buds
The twigs are gray-brown, stout, fuzzy, with distinct leaf scars that are oval (not deeply notched). The buds are almost black.
Roots
Pumpkin ash is a deep-rooting tree with far-reaching shallow lateral roots with a formed taproot.
Leaves
The leaves of Pumpkin ash are a glossy green and can get up to 40 cm (15.7 in) long and are odd-pinnate with 5-9 leaflets that are hairy on the bottoms. The single leaves are oval but pointed at the tip. The leaf margin is serrated.
Fruit
Pumpkin Ash has the largest fruit of any Ash species. The paired samaras are about 8 cm (3.2 in) long. On female trees, samaras mature in August-October in drooping clusters.
Native Distribution
Since pumpkin ash likes swampy areas it is predominately found in the Atlantic Coastal Plain from southern Maryland and southeastern Virginia to northern Florida, and west to Louisiana. It does grow in the Mississippi and Ohio River Valleys from southern Illinois and Indiana, south through southeastern Missouri and northeastern Arkansas. Even though pumpkin ash trees can be found in all these areas, it is pretty discontinuous meaning its presence is patchy. The native distribution map is shown below.
6. How To Identify Carolina Ash Trees (Fraxinus caroliniana Mill.)
This ash tree could be confused with black ash (Fraxinus nigra) because they both grow in wetlands, they don’t always grow very large, and their bark is not always deeply furrowed (age-dependent). Although there is minimal overlap in their distribution range it is possible to find both based on the USGS maps provided throughout. Carolina ash has less punky bark than black ash which is a good way to tell the two apart.
Other Common Names
Carolina ash is also referred to as Carolina water ash, water ash, Florida ash, pop ash, poppy ash, and swamp ash.
Key Identification Features
Like the pumpkin ash (above) a good identifying feature of the Carolina ash is the swollen base of the tree trunk. This ash tree will only grow to about 30 feet tall and have a diameter of about 8 inches at maturity, most ashes will grow taller than this. It also does not have deep bark ridges/furrows.
Habitat
Carolina ash is the smallest of the northeastern ash species and grows in swamps, wetlands, and wet woods. It does not tolerate salt spray or brackish waters. In nature it is an understory tree in moist to wet, shady sites with acidic soil.
Height
This ash tree will only grow to about 30 feet tall and have a diameter of about 8 inches at maturity.
Bark
Like many ash trees, the Carolina ash has bark furrowing that develops with age.
Carolina Ash Tree (Fraxinus caroliniana) Bark.Photo From Here.
Leaves
The pinnately compound leaves have 5 to 9 leaflets and are 7 to 12 inches long. Leaflets are 2 to 4 inches long and 2 inches across with a usually serrated margin but sometimes entire. The upperside is dark green and the underside is paler and smooth. The overall feel is thick and smooth.
Top and bottom of Carolina Ash Tree (Fraxinus caroliniana) leaves. Notice the lighter bottoms. Photo From Here.
Twigs and Buds
Twigs are smooth but sometimes fuzzy, gray-brown, with oval leaf scars.
Flowers
Green to purplish flowers are dioecious and appear in spring in clusters before the leaves. Male flowers are in a dense mass while female flowers are a more open cluster or panicle. They bloom in May. Similar to those of other ash species.
Fruit
Flattened broad-wing samaras are 1 1/2 to 2 inches long and 1/2- 3/4 inches wide. The violet wings hang well below the seed portion and there can be 2 to 3 wings. Matures from July to October.
Carolina Ash Tree (Fraxinus caroliniana) leaves and samaras (seeds/fruits). Photo From Here.
Native Distribution
The Carolina ash is found in the southeastern United States to Cuba.
Carolina Ash Distribution Range Map
7. How To Identify European Ash Trees (Fraxinus excelsior L.)
Other Common Names
European ash is also referred to as common ash, or just ‘ash’.
Key Identification Features
The twigs are smooth, greenish-grey, stout, and have large jet-black velvety leaf buds arranged oppositely, making them easily identified even in winter without leaves or fruit. The jet-black buds are a distinguishing feature of the European ash because most other ash species have grey or brown buds.
European Ash Tree (Fraxinus excelsior L.) jet-black buds. Photo From Here.
Habitat
This ash tree does well in areas that have been disturbed.
Height
This ash tree is a medium-sized tree that commonly reaches heights of 40-60 ft with a trunk diameter of 6 feet at peak maturity, although some may be larger in ideal growing conditions.
Bark
European ash bark is smooth and pale grey on young trees, becoming thick and vertically fissured on old trees.
Leaves
European ash leaves are opposite, 20–35 cm (7.9–13.8 in) long, pinnately compound, with 7–13 leaflets with coarsely serrated margins, elliptic to narrowly elliptic, 3–12 cm (1.2–4.7 in) long, and 0.8–3 cm (0.31–1.18 in) broad and sessile on the leaf rachis. There are no stipules.
These features distinguish ash from European mountain ash (Sorbus aucuparia) in which the leaves are alternate with paired stipules. The leaves are often among the last to open in spring, and the first to fall in autumn if an early frost strikes; they often fall dull green or develop a bright yellow autumn color.
Twigs & Buds
The twigs are smooth, greenish-grey, stout, and have large jet-black velvety leaf buds arranged oppositely, making them easily identified even in winter without leaves or fruit. The jet-black buds are a distinguishing feature of the European ash because most other ash species have grey or brown buds.
Flowers
The flowers are borne in short panicles, open before the leaves, and have no perianth. The female flowers are somewhat longer than the male flowers, dark purple, without petals, and are wind-pollinated. Both male and female flowers can occur on the same tree, but it is more common to find all male and all female trees. A tree that is all male one year can produce female flowers the next, and similarly a female tree can become male.
Fruit
The fruit is a samara 2.5–4.5 cm (0.98–1.77 in) long and 5–8 mm (0.20–0.31 in) broad, often hanging in bunches through the winter; and are often called ‘ash keys’. If the fruit is gathered and planted when it is still green and not fully ripe, it will germinate straight away, however, once the fruit is brown and fully ripe, it will not germinate until 18 months after sowing (i.e. not until two winters have passed).
Distribution
The European ash tree is, as the name would suggest, native to Europe. It can be found from northern Spain to Russia, and from southern Fennoscandia to northern Greece. It is also considered native in southwestern Asia from northern Turkey east to the Caucasus and Alborz mountains.
The northernmost location is in the Trondheimsfjord region of Norway. The species is commonly cultivated and has established in New Zealand, United States, and Canada including; Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Quebec, Massachusetts, Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Maryland, Ontario, Ohio, Kentucky, and British Columbia.
European Ash (Fraxinus excelsior) Native Distribution. Photo From Here.European Ash (Fraxinus excelsior L.) Introduced Distribution
Ash Trees Of The Western & Southwestern United States
8. How To Identify Oregon Ash Trees (Fraxinus latifolia)
Other Common Names
Does not appear any other common names exist.
Key Identification Features
The bark is distinctive with dark gray-brown, and it will eventually develop a woven pattern of deep fissures and ridges, though younger trees in this species will have smoother bark. This tree can be further identified by its opposite buds and branching of stout twigs with wooly hairs. This is an especially helpful tool in the winter when no leaves remain on the tree. The leaflets are also wider than most other ashes. The botanical name “latifolia” actually means ‘wide leaves’.
Oregon Ash Tree (Fraxinus latifolia) Stout Twigs and Stems. Photo From Here.
Habitat
The Oregon ash tree grows mostly in wetlands and wet habitats such as sloughs, swales, wet meadows, swamps, streams, and bottomlands.
Height
Fraxinus latifolia is a relatively average-sized deciduous tree that can grow to heights of 65 ft to 80 ft in height, with a trunk diameter of 16–30 inches. This ash tree has a life span of approximately 100−150-years. It is possible that Oregon ash can grow much larger and live longer in the right growing conditions. It will also become stunted in dryer habitats which is something to consider when attempting to identify this species.
Bark
The bark is distinctive with dark gray-brown, and with age will develop a woven pattern of deep fissures and ridges. Like many trees, the younger ashes of this species will have smoother bark.
Leaves
Oregon Ash has pinnately compound leaves like all ashes. The leaves are 4 3⁄4–13 in long, with 5–9 leaflets attached oppositely in pairs on the rachis with one additional leaflet at the tip (common for ash trees). Each leaflet is oval-shaped and is about, 2 1⁄4 – 4 3⁄4 inches long and 1 1⁄8 –1 5⁄8 inches broad which is bigger than most other ashes. The leaves are noticeably lighter green than other species found in the same areas. The leaves will turn bright yellow and fall off early in autumn.
Oregon Ash Tree (Fraxinus latifolia) Leaves and fruit. Photo From Here.
Buds
Like all ash trees, this ash has an opposite branching arrangement and opposing buds.
Twigs
Oregon ash has stout twigs with wooly hairs which is one of the better identification tools, especially in winter when there are no leaves on the trees.
Flowers
In mid to late spring, the tree produces small flowers that are not very noticeable. This ash tree has light green flowers that start growing during the months of March-May.
Fruit
The fruit (cluster of samaras) is produced by a female tree. The samaras are about 1 1⁄8 – 2 inches long and include wings similar to maple trees. It is shaped like a canoe oar, with the small seed located at one end. Interestingly, this ash only starts producing seeds once it reaches about 30 years of age. They will ripen and turn brown around the beginning of fall, (August-September) and then fall off the tree. The wings help the fruit disperse through the wind.
Roots
Oregon ash will develop relatively shallow roots compared to other ash species, but their root systems will be very dense that have an incredible reach in order to absorb up all the nutrients needed to sustain their life.
Native Distribution
Fraxinus latifolia is found on the west side of the Cascade Range from southwestern British Columbia south through western Washington, western Oregon, and northwestern California; and in central California in the Sierra Nevada.
Oregon Ash (Fraxinus latifolia) Native Distribution Range Map
9. How To Identify Gregg’s Ash Trees (Fraxinus greggii)
Gregg’s Ash Tree (Fraxinus greggii) – Plant Form. Photo From Here.
Other Common Names
Gregg’s Ash is also called; Gregg Ash, Littleleaf Ash, Dogleg Ash, Escobilla, Barreta China
Key Identification Features
This ash tree has many unique characteristics, making it fairly easy to identify. These characteristics are described below:
Gregg’s ash tree is unique in that it has nearly evergreen leaves. These leaves are small (less than 2 inches long) pinnate, dark green, and leathery. Unlike most ash trees the bark is smooth and thin.
Another key identifying feature is that it is usually a shrub, and less commonly found as a tree. If found as a tree it is small in height (about 20 feet).
Smooth, thin, gray bark; slender branches; and pinnate, dark-green, leathery leaves characterize the plant.
Habitat
This ash is found on rocky limestone slopes, bluffs, and canyons and more prevalently in dry creek beds and washes in sandy or loamy soils. Gregg’s ash is a drought-tolerant species
Height
This ash is uniquely a small tree or shrub. As a tree, it not often exceed 20 feet in height.
Bark
The bark of this ash tree is smooth and light gray which is a great way to identify this ash from most other ashes. Most ashes do not have smooth bark, instead, they are furrowed to some extent. Manna ash would be an example of another ash tree with smooth bark.
Gregg’s Ash Tree (Fraxinus greggii): Smooth Bark and Trunk. Photo From Here.
Leaves
Gregg’s ash has distinctive nearly evergreen leaves that are 1-3 in. They are long and are pinnately compound (like all ashes), lightly toothed, dark-green, and leathery which are found in threes, but up to seven small leaflets. The small size of these leaves is a unique characteristic of this ash tree making it a good identifier of this species.
Gregg’s Ash Tree (Fraxinus greggii): Evergreen Leaves. Photo From Here.
Twigs
Another unique characteristic of Gregg’s Ash is that it has slender branches/twigs. This can be observed in the first photo of this section.
Flowers
The flowers are inconspicuous, meaning they are not obvious. They are very tiny and clustered with male parts appearing before females. This is to avoid self-pollination. Flowers have purple (male) anthers and yellow (female) aging to brown stigma and ovaries in green sepals. Gregg’s ash flowers do not have petals.
Fruit
Like all ashes, this ash also has samara (small winged seeds).
Native Distribution
Gregg’s ash can be found in Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona within the United States, and south to Jalisco and Veracruz in Mexico
Gregg’s Ash (Fraxinus greggii) Distribution Range Map
10. How To Identify Arizona Ash Trees (Fraxinus velutina)
Arizona ash (Fraxinus velutina) – Tree Form. Photo From Here
Other Common Names
Arizona Ash has many common names. Additional common names of Arizona ash (Fraxinus velutina) include:
Velvet ash
Modesto Ash (a cultivar of Arizona ash)
Desert ash
Smooth ash
Leatherleaf ash
Fresno ash
Toumey Ash
Standley Ash
Key Identifying Features
The Arizona ash is also called “velvet ash” for having a velvety underside to its leaflets. However, these hairs are not present in every circumstance.
The Arizona ash tree is native to North America to Mexico. The Arizona ash is similar to the green ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica) closely related to the Oregon ash (Fraxinus latifolia). A distinction of this ash is very difficult because of the similarities. This ash tree does not grow very tall, only to about 35 feet in height. Green ash and Oregon ash will grow taller generally.
A good way to identify this species from these other ash species is to look at the distribution range maps. There is some overlap between these species, but not complete overlap.
Habitat
Arizona ash trees grow best at the edges of wetlands where soils are not completely saturated but get adequate amounts of water. This ash tree is also a widely planted ornamental species.
Height
It is a small deciduous tree growing to 35 feet tall, with a trunk up to 12-inches in diameter.
Bark
Like many ash trees, the bark is rough gray-brown and deeply fissured in the shape of diamonds with scaly ridges.
Branches & Twigs
The shoots are velvety/downy.
Arizona ash (Fraxinus velutina) velvety/downy twigs/stems. Photo From Here
Roots
Shallow-rooting plant
Leaves
The leaves are 4 to 10-inches long, pinnately compound with 3, 5, or 7 leaflets 1.5-3 inches or longer with serrated edges. The leaflets can be slightly different shapes and often have velvety hairs beneath which is the reason for one of the many common names “Velvet ash”. However, velvety hairs may not always be present. The foliage will turn yellow in the autumn.
Arizona ash (Fraxinus velutina) leaf. Commonly is tomentose (has small velvety hairs). Photo From Here.
Flowers
The flowers are produced in small clusters in early spring; it is dioecious, with male and female flowers on separate trees. The flowers inconspicuous and will bloom in spring in clusters which is common for ash trees. Male and female flowers will be found residing on separate trees.
Fruit
The fruit is in the form of seeds, that hang in dense clusters. The fruit is a samara 0.6-1.2 inches long, with an apical wing 4-8 millimeter broad.
Native Distribution
The distribution range map of Arizona ash trees is shown below. This ash is native to southwestern North America, in the United States from southern California east to Texas, and in Mexico from northern Baja California east to Coahuila and Nuevo Len.
Arizona Ash Tree (Fraxinus velutina Torr.) Distribution Range map
11. How To Identify Evergreen Ash Trees (Fraxinus udhei)
Evergreen ash tree (Fraxinus uhdei) Plant Form. Photo From Here.
Other Common Names
Shamel Ash
Evergreen Ash
Key Identification Feature
This ash tree is native to Mexico and was introduced to the United States. Its distribution in the U.S. is primarily only found in southern California.
Although this tree is called ‘evergreen’ ash it is not completely evergreen. These trees will retain some leaves-year long, but it is also partly deciduous so it will drop some of its leaves as well. This is a good identifying feature in the winter.
The bark of this ash tree is light gray and fissured. It does not have the diamond-shaped fissures that many ash trees have. Instead, it has more square-looking fissures.
Habitat
Evergreen Ash is generally grown in parks, commercial areas, and can be seen adorning large landscapes. It is an extremely drought tolerant tree and will need very little water once it has been established.
This species of ash is not too picky where it can grow. It can grow in pH levels that are highly acidic to highly alkaline soils that are clayey, loamy, or sandy in texture and that is moist to dry. It does well in areas with full sun or partial shade and also has some seaside tolerance.
USDA Hardiness Zones 8 – 10.
Height
The evergreen ash is a large and fast-growing tree. It commonly grows to 80 feet in height, growing 36 or more inches per year, and can live up to 150 years of age in good growing conditions.
Bark
The bark of this ash tree is light gray and fissured. It does not have the diamond-shaped fissures that many ash trees have. Instead, it has more plate-like square fissures.
Evergreen ash tree (Fraxinus uhdei) bark – M. Ritter, W. Mark, J. Reimer and C. Stubler. Photo From Here.
Leaves
Evergreen ash tree leaflets are similar to other ash trees in that they are pinnately compound, odd in number, and are dark green. The leaves differ from other ash trees because they are partly evergreen as the same suggests. Although, some leaves will still fall off.
Evergreen ash tree (Fraxinus uhdei) leaves – M. Ritter, W. Mark, J. Reimer and C. Stubler. Photo From Here.
Flowers
Like most ash trees the flowers are inconspicuous and flower in spring.
Fruit
The fruit is a yellow or green samara that is about 0.5 – 1.5 inches, and fruits in the Summer or Fall.
Native Distribution
This ash tree is native to Mexico and was introduced to the United States. Its distribution in the U.S. is primarily only found in southern California.
12. How To Identify Mountain Ash Trees (Fraxinus texensis / Fraxinus Albicans)
Do not confuse this Mountain ash (Fraxinus texensis / Fraxinus Albicans) with American Mountain Ash (Sorbus americana) which is not technically an ash tree (see Species Resembling Ash Trees Section Below).
Other Common Names
Texas ash
Key Identification Feature
Mountain ash is a recent relative of white ash (Fraxinus americana), and looks very similar. Some botanists believe that mountain ash is a subspecies of white ash (Fraxinus americana). For this reason, the botanical name was changed from Fraxinus texensis to Fraxinus albicans for more precise nomenclature accuracy.
Since mountain ash is closely related to white ash it is notoriously hard to differentiate, especially when leaves are off. Texas ash has “C-shaped” leaf scars where the bud sits within the cup of the “C”. This is very similar to white ash. In general, mountain ash has fewer and smaller leaflets and smaller fruit because it has adapted to a warmer, less humid climate.
Mountain ash is only located in a very small area of the United States.
Habitat
Mountain ash trees will grow on rocky limestone hillsides, bluffs, and ridges.
Height
This ash tree is medium-sized, it can grow to around 45 feet tall with a trunk diameter of 2 feet.
Bark
The bark of mountain ash trees is gray, with brown or black spots, diamond-furrowed, with the furrowing developing with tree age.
Leaves
Mountain ash leaves are opposite with pinnately compound leaflets like all ashes and are 5″ to 8″ long. The leaves hold 5 to 7 oval to round leaflets. leaflets are long-stalked and 1″ to 3″ long. Leaf color is dark green on top and lighter green on the bottom.
Texas ash has “C-shaped” leaf scars where the bud sits within the cup of the “C”, very similar to white ash.
Mountain ash leaves are opposite with pinnately compound leaflets like all ashes and are 5″ to 8″ long. The leaves hold 5 to 7 oval to round leaflets. leaflets are long-stalked and 1″ to 3″ long. Leaf color is dark green on top and lighter green on the bottom.
Texas ash has “C-shaped” leaf scars where the bud sits within the cup of the “C”, very similar to white ash.
Mountain ash (Texas albicans) C-Shaped Leaf Scar. Photo From Here.Mountain ash (Fraxinus texensis) Leaves. Photo From Here.
Flowers
Male and female flowers are found on separate trees in order to prevent self-fertilization. When new leaves emerge, female flowers will be found in loose clusters. Male flowers are found in dark-purplish clusters near the end of twigs.
Fruit
The fruit is a skinny, pointed seed that is enclosed by a flattened wing (samara), and is about 1″ long and up to 0.25″ wide. These seeds are in loose clusters connected by short stalks.
Native Distribution
The native distribution of mountain ash is confined primarily to Texas, except for a northern extension into the Arbuckle Mountains of Oklahoma.
13. How To Identify California Ash Trees (Fraxinus dipetala)
California ash Tree (Fraxinus dipetala) – Tree Form. Photo From Here.
Other Common Names
Other names for California ash is two-petal ash and foothill ash.
Key Identification Feature
The California ash tree has many unique characteristics, making it easy to identify. This ash tree is not dioecious like most ashes, instead, it is bisexual (each flower of each tree has both male and female structures). The flowers are showy on this ash, which is uncommon for ash trees which usually have inconspicuous flowers. Also, this tree is multi-trunked and does not usually grow more than 25 feet tall. Finally, the twigs are cylindric to 4-angled, similar to those of blue ash.
Habitat
This ash is drought resistant and is found residing in canyons, slopes, chaparral, and oak/pine woodlands. They are also commonly planted as a garden tree.
Height
California ash is a deciduous shrub or small tree growing to around 25 feet tall.
Bark
The bark of this tree is grayish-brown and is furrowed with long ridges. The furrowing develops with tree age.
Fruit
The fruit is a long, flat samara 0.8 – 1.25 inches long and 5 – 9 millimeter broad. When the fruit is developing it is green and hangs in bunches. In the summer or fall, the samara color will be yellow or green.
Leaves
Like all ashes, the leaves are pinnately compound. The leaves are between 2 – 7.5 inches long, light to dark green, with three to seven (rarely nine) leaflets that are usually between 0.4 – 2.75 inches long. The leaves are also thick and serrated along the margins.
Trunk
California ash is often a multi-trunked tree which is a fairly unique characteristic among ash species.
California ash tree (Fraxinus dipetala) – Multi-trunked. Photo From Here.
Twigs
The twigs are cylindric to 4-angled which is another fairly unique characteristic among ashes.
California ash tree (Fraxinus dipetala) – 4-angled stems. Photo From Here.
Flowers
California ash has white flowers and are showy, which is uncommon for ash trees which usually have inconspicuous flowers. The showy flower-clusters bloom in late spring, making it a good choice as a flowering accent tree in a garden.
California ash tree (Fraxinus dipetala) – Showy flowers. Photo From Here.
Native Distribution
This species of ash is native to southwestern North America in the United States and can be found in Arizona, California, Oregon, southern Nevada, and Utah, and in Mexico in northern Baja California. It grows at altitudes of 328 – 4,265 feet.
Ash Trees Outside Of The United States
14. How To Identify Narrow Leaf Ash Trees (Fraxinus angustifolia subsp. angustifolia.)
Narrow-Leaved Ash (Fraxinus angustifolia) Plant Form. Photo From Here.
Other Common Names
Narrow-leaf ash is also referred to as desert ash, golden stem ash, and phoenix ash.
Key Identification Feature
As the name suggests, the narrow leaflets of narrow-leaf ash are a distinctive characteristic.
The flowers are inconspicuous and appear in late winter or early spring. Flowers are in dense clusters and can be male or bisexual. Bisexual ashes are uncommon making this a helpful identifying feature.
The bark of the narrow ash tree is squarish and knobby instead of a diamond fissured pattern.
The buds are brown and hairless (i.e. glabrous), which readily distinguishes them from the related European ash (Fraxinus excelsior) which has black buds even in winter.
Habitat
This ash tree does well in urban settings and in acidic soil with lots of sun. Because it is drought tolerant it also grows in dry rocky places in maquis shrublands or in pine/mixed forest.
Height
It is a medium to a large deciduous tree growing to 65–100 feet tall with a trunk up to 5 feet in diameter.
Bark
The bark is smooth and pale grey on young trees, with knobby square-fissuring on older trees.
The buds are brown and hairless (i.e. glabrous), which readily distinguishes them from the related European ash (Fraxinus excelsior) which has black buds even in winter.
Narrow leaf ash (Fraxinus angustifolia subsp. angustifolia) brown hairless Buds. Photo From Here.
Leaves
The leaves are in opposite pairs or whorls of three, pinnate, and 6–10 inches long. Each leaf consists of 3 – 13 leaflets which are distinctively slender as the name suggests. The leaflets are about 1.2–3 inches long and 1–1.5 cm broad. The margins of the leaves are toothed (i.e. serrated). The leaves will turn a yellowish color in autumn.
Younger stems of this ash tree are greenish-brown or yellowish, hairless, and have small white spots.
Flowers
narrowleaf ash (Fraxinus angustifolia) Flowers. Photo From Here.
The flowers are inconspicuous and appear in late winter or early spring. Flowers are in dense clusters and can be male or bisexual. Bisexual ashes are uncommon making this a good identifying feature.
Fruit
The winged fruit (samaras) contain a single seed. This fruit (3-5 cm long) is oval-shaped and often slightly twisted.
Native Distribution
The narrow-leaf ash can be found in Southwest Asia, southern and central Europe, and northwest Africa.
Narrow leaved ash (Fraxinus angustifolia) distribution range map. Photo From Here.
15. How to Identify Raywood Ash Trees (Fraxinus angustifolia subsp. oxycarpa)
Raywood ash tree (Fraxinus angustifolia ‘Raywood’) plant form. Photo From Here.
Raywood ash (Fraxinus oxycarpa subsp. oxycarpa) is a common cultivar of narrow-leaf ash (Fraxinus angustifolia subsp. angustifolia.) (above). Some botanists and plant specialists list raywood as a subspecies, hence the long name (F. angustifolia subsp. oxycarpa). However, there is not a consensus on this. Some don’t consider the differences (hairlessness and leaflet number) enough to justify a subspecific identity. For this reason, some will identify this species as F. angustifolia ‘Raywood’ instead.
Other Common Names
Raywood ash is also called Claret Ash.
Key Identification Feature
The leaf color is vibrant red and purple during the fall which is the reason it is a widely cultivated species.
The leaflets will have white hairs on the lower half of the midribs.
This tree does not produce seeds/fruits. This means raywood ash is a mostly sterile cultivated species. These trees will leave less mess in the fall because seeds won’t be dispersed due to it being sterile.
The bark is more smooth than other species of ash.
Habitat
This tree is not native to the U.S., it is cultivated species often used for landscaping. Raywood ash should be planted in areas that offer a lot of sun, and well-drained soil. Raywood is also drought tolerant. This ash tree will be able to grow in somewhat wetter habitats, just not as well.
Height
This ash tree can reach 25 – 45 feet in height given ideal growing conditions such as well-drained soils and full sun.
Bark
The bark is not fissured like many ash trees, it is generally more smooth.
Raywood ash tree (Fraxinus angustifolia ‘Raywood’) bark. Photo From Here
Leaves
Leaves opposite and pinnately compound, but uniquely often have whorls of 3 or 4 at ends of branches. There are usually 5-9 narrow leaflets with each consisting of about 4-6.5 cm long. They are dark green during the growing season and a vibrant red-purple color in the fall.
Raywood ash tree (Fraxinus angustifolia ‘Raywood’) red leaves and foliage. Photo From Here.
Buds
The buds of raywood ash are similar to narrow-leaf ash in that they are a brown color. This helps distinguish them from the related European ash (Fraxinus excelsior) which has black buds even in winter.
Raywood ash tree (Fraxinus angustifolia ‘Raywood’) brown and hairless buds. Photo From Here.
Flowers
Like most ashes, the flowers dioecious and inconspicuous and flower in spring.
Raywood ash tree (Fraxinus angustifolia ‘Raywood’) opening male flower buds in early spring. Photo From Here.
Fruit
This tree does not produce seeds/fruits. This means raywood ash is a mostly sterile cultivated species. These trees will leave less mess in the fall because seeds won’t be dispersed.
Roots
Surface roots may be a problem with this species of ash for landscape purposes. They are shallow rooting.
Native Distribution
Raywood ash trees are not native to North America, they are native to the Mediterranian. That being said, they are commonly planted in North America for its showy red-purple fall foliage.
Raywood ash tree (Fraxinus angustifolia ‘Raywood’) distribution range map. Photo From Here.
16. How To Identify Manna Ash Trees (Fraxinus ornus)
Other Common Names
Manna ash is also called flowering ash, or South European flowering ash.
Key Identification Feature(s)
As one of the common names suggest (flowering ash), the manna ash tree produces showy white flowers. Showy flowers are not a common occurrence for most ash trees making it a good identifying feature.
The leaf buds are grey, pinkish-brown, brown, with short grey hairs unlike those of the European Ash which are black.
The bark is dark grey, remaining smooth even on old trees which is not common for most ash trees, making it a good identifying feature.
Habitat
This ash tree grows in mixed woods, thickets, and rocky places, most commonly on limestone.
Height
Fraxinus ornus is a medium-sized deciduous tree growing to 50–80 feet tall with a trunk up to 40 inches in diameter.
Bark
The bark is dark grey, remaining smooth even on old trees which is not common for most ash trees, making it a good identifying feature.
Manna ash tree (Fraxinus ornus) smooth bark. Photo From Here.
Leaves
The leaves are in opposite pairs and pinnately compound. They are, 8–12 inches long and can have 5 to 9 leaflets which are oval shaped and 0.2–0.4 inches long and 0.8–2 in wide. The veins on the underside are usually hairy at the base. The margins of the leaflets are finely serrated with a wavy margin. The petioles are short but distinct, they are around 0.20–0.60 inches long. In the fall the leaves can range from yellowish to purplish. The leaf buds are grey, pinkish-brown, brown, with short grey hairs unlike those of the European Ash which are black.
Buds
The buds are pale pinkish-brown to grey-brown, with a dense covering of short grey hairs.
Manna ash tree (Fraxinus ornus) buds. Photo From Here.
Flowers
As one of the common names suggest (flowering ash), the manna ash tree produces showy white flowers. Showy flowers are not a common occurrence for most ash trees.
California ash (described above), native to the western United States, is another example of a species that produces showy white flowers.
Manna ash tree (Fraxinus ornus) showy flowers. Photo From Here.
Fruit
The fruit is a green slender samara that changes to brown as it ripens. The samaras are about 0.59–0.98 inches long, 0.08 inches broad, and 0.2–0.2 inches broad.
Native Distribution
Manna ash is a native of central Europe, It was introduced to Britain around 1700 and is usually grafted on to a rootstock of European Ash (Fraxinus excelsior L.).
Manna ash tree (Fraxinus ornus) distribution range map. Photo From Here.
17. How To Identify Manchurian Ash Trees (Fraxinus mandshurica)
Manchurian ash is closely related to Fraxinus nigra (Black Ash) from eastern North America. Some professionals treat this ash as a subspecies of black ash. For example, Fraxinus nigra subsp. mandschurica (Rupr.) S.S.Sun, or Fraxinus nigra var. mandschurica (Rupr.) Lingelsheim.
Other Common Names
Other common names for this species is mancana Manchurian ash, or mancana ash.
Key Identification Feature
The first-year twigs of the Manchurian ash are a golden color.
Habitat
This ash tree does well in many different types of conditions. It can grow in clay or sandy soils that are either wet or dry, with various pH levels, in shade to sun, various temperatures and weather conditions, but prefers some water with well-drained soils with full sun for best growth. Because of these characteristics, it can withstand fair amounts of pollution, making it an excellent plant for urban city settings and for landscaping. Although this ash can grow in a variety of conditions, it grows best with full sun with moist well-drained soils. In these conditions, it will grow 2-3 feet per year. It does better in slightly drier conditions than black ash, more characteristic of green ash.
Height
It is a medium-sized to large deciduous usually growing to 40-50 feet but can reach around 100 feet tall, with a trunk around 20 inches in diameter.
Bark
The bark of this species is gray and smooth when young, it later develops shallow fissures characteristic of many ashes.
Leaves
Like all ashes, the leaves are pinnately compound and are about 10-15 inches long. The leaflets can number anywhere from 7-13 and are 5-20 cm long, and 2-5 cm wide and are obviously toothed and nearly stalkless. The leaves turn a beautiful yellow-chrome color in the fall.
Manchurian Ash Trees (Fraxinus mandshurica) leaves. Photo From Here.
Buds
The buds of the Manchurian ash are black, ovate, pointed and about 1/4 inches long.
Twigs
An identifying characteristic of this ash tree is first-year twigs are a golden color.
Flowers
Like most ashes, the flowers are produced in spring and are inconspicuous making them poor identifying features. The flowers of this species do not have petals.
Fruit
Like all ashes, the fruit is a samara comprising a single seed 1–2 cm long with a wing that is 2.5–4 cm long and 5–7 mm broad.
Roots
The roots of this ash are shallow, fibrous, and spreading. This is something to consider in landscaping.
Native Distribution
The Manchurian ash native distribution range includes northeastern Asia in northern China, Korea, Japan, and southeastern Russia. This tree is occasionally cultivated as an ornamental tree in parts of Canada and the United States but in such low numbers, it is not recorded in the USDA maps.
Manchurian Ash Trees (Fraxinus mandshurica) Distribution Range Map
Species Resembling Ash Trees (That Are Not Actually Ash Trees)
By looking at the scientific names of these species you can tell right away that they are not actually true ash species. For example, Fraxinus is not shown in their scientific name, meaning they are not classified as true ash species, despite some of the names having ‘ash’ in them. This is why it is important to understand the classification system stated at the beginning of this post.
American Mountain Ash Tree (Sorbus americana)
Not to be confused with Texas ash (which is an ash tree) and is also called mountain ash.
European Mountain Ash (sorbus aucuparia)
Boxelder Tree (Acer negundo)
Shagbark Hickory Tree (Carya ovata)
Elm Tree (Ulmus species)
Black Walnut Tree (Juglans nigra)
Prickly Ash Tree (Zanthoxylum americanum)
Why Are Ash Trees Important? Threats to Ash Trees
Emerald Ash Borer
Ash trees are endangered because of the emerald ash borer (EAB). EAB is an insect that eats through the cambium layer in the ash which eventually kills the tree because the cambium layer is how trees obtain nutrients. EAB is an invasive insect that is devastating the ash tree populations. This is not good because ash trees not only provide native wildlife with food, shelter, and habitat they provide wood products for people.