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Holosun AEMS Review | A Field-Tested Hunting Review

Over the past year, I’ve tested the Holosun AEMS (Advanced Enclosed Micro Sight) across multiple hunting seasons to assess its real-world performance. This review goes beyond technical specifications, offering an authentic evaluation based on my personal experience while highlighting the key strengths and weaknesses of the AEMS.

This post contains Amazon and other affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my link, at no extra cost to you. Of course, you are not obligated to use my links, but it does help fund these posts in hopes of bringing more value to you!

This Reviews Credibility

No Affiliation with Holosun

I am not affiliated with Holosun in any way, I bought this reflex sight with my own money because it looked like the best reflex sight for my hunting purposes and I wanted to test it out.

How The Holosun AEMS Was Tested

Target Range

Before hunting I sighted the AEMS at the range. In this review, I talk about how it performed at the range and any pros and cons while dialing this sight in for hunting season.

Turkey Hunting

The first season I tested the Holosun AEMS was during the spring turkey season. I had the optic mounted on my Benelli Supernova shotgun. Hunting turkeys was a great way to test how the optic performed in hunting situations initially. I much preferred the AEMS over a shotgun bead for turkeys.

Tracking Deer In Snow

The second hunting season I tested the AEMS in was while deer hunting in Maine. More specifically, tracking big woods bucks in the snow—one of the toughest challenges an optic can face. Tracking conditions push gear to the limit, combining intense physical exertion with harsh weather, making it the ultimate test of durability and performance.

I understand that only a small portion of hunters track deer in the vast Northwoods of New England, so even though my experience with the gun has been while tracking, the points I cover in this post will be beneficial no matter what style of deer hunting you do.

Holosun AEMS Mounted on Rifle
Holosun AEMS Mounted on Rifle (Remington 7600 Carbine)

Shooting Range Test

Shooting Range Pros

I shot about 40 rounds with the AEMS at the shooting range, the first 20 were to sight it in and the next 20 were to have a little fun practicing with it. I liked how lightweight it was, combined with the fast acquisition compared to a magnified scope or especially iron sights.

Sighting it in was a breeze. It has windage and elevation dials that you turn, just like a scope. It comes with a two-sided tool that makes it easy to tighten the sight to the Picatinny rail and to adjust the elevation and windage dials. However, I don’t like that they have a specific tool for this, I’d rather Holosun just use a classic screwdriver or an allen wrench for easy adjustments if you forget the tool. Overall, I was impressed and happy with my purchase.

Side view of the Holosun AEMS showing buttons and dials

Shooting Range Cons

The first thing I noticed was that the dot wasn’t super crisp. From using this sight, I found out that I had astigmatism, which was causing this. So, I ended up getting glasses to correct the issue. Now that I’m wearing glasses, the dot is crisper, but not as good as I expected. It is still perfectly fine for the close-quarter shots I plan to shoot in. But it would be nice if it was a little crisper.

While at the shooting range it was clear that the AEMS is not ideal for long-range shooting. But if you’re looking into this sight, that’s probably not an issue for you as red dots are made for close-quarter fast-acquisition shooting. But it’s best to be used within 100 yards, and probably more like 75 yards.

Turkey Hunting Shotgun Test

I bought the AMES for tracking deer on snow but since I had it for turkey season first, but since turkey season was coming up I decided I would get some initial impressions of the optic on my shotgun for turkey season.

Holosun AEMS Reflex Sight Review For Turkey Hunting
Holosun AEMS Reflex Sight Review For Turkey Hunting

Shotgun Pros

I’ve always used the shotgun bead to hunt turkeys, and it’s worked fine. That said, I’ve always wanted to try a red dot for my turkey shotgun because it has benefits. I installed the AEMS on my Benelli SuperNova.

The main benefit I liked was that I could sight-in my shotgun to center my pellet spread. This is also extra beneficial if you want to increase your effective range because you can use an extra-restricted choke tube to constrict your pellet spread.

Having a red dot ensures that you don’t miss close-up shots when you have a tight pattern and that you can accurately shoot those tighter patterns at longer distances to get more pellets on target. If you’re using your shotgun bead, it can be tricky to properly center your pellet spread if it’s very constricted, leading to a miss.

When I turkey hunt with my shotgun beads I have a midrib bead and a front bead, I line both of those beads up when hunting to help with proper alignment when shooting, and it does help. However, with the AEMS, I didn’t have to worry about lining anything up. As long as that red dot was on the turkey, that’s where my pellets were going. This made shooting a little easier by having one less thing to mess up when a gobbler was in range.

Shotgun Pros Summary

  • More accurate at all distances than traditional shotgun bead
  • Don’t need to align a midrib and front bead
  • Center your pellet spread
  • Tighten your pellet spread

Shotgun Cons

The biggest con of the AMES is that it seems to be designed for AR-style rifles, for this reason, it sits very high on my SuperNova receiver and feels unnatural with the mount that comes with the AEMS. Holosun does make a “low mount” which seems hard to find online. Many of the low mounts have had manufacturing issues causing the holes to not align with the holes on the AEMS properly so they have a lot of poor reviews.

To avoid purchasing one of these mounts I messaged Holosun directly to see if they could help find one that would fit my AEMS. Surprisingly, they messaged me back the next day saying they would send me one for free and all I needed to do was send a photo of my AEMS with the serial number, so I did, but they ended up sending me the same mount I already had… After communicating further with Holosun they said they didn’t have a low-mount available in the warehouse and sent me an Amazon link of what to purchase.

I purchased this low-mount and it was exactly what I was looking for. I was able to reduce the height of the sight so it felt more natural to look through the sight.

You might be wondering if the extra bulk and weight are noticeable compared to a regular shotgun bead. It’s not really, the AMES is so light that you won’t even recognize the added 3.9 extra oz of weight. It does add some bulk, but not much. You might find the red dot getting caught in thick brush compared to a bead, but it’s no worse than a rifle with a scope.

Shotgun Cons Summary

  • Stock AMES mount is too tall
  • Needed to purchase “Low-Mount”
  • Customer service miscommunication
  • More bulky than a traditional shotgun bead

Deer Hunting Rifle Test

My main purpose for purchasing the AEMS was to use it to track bucks in the snow in the big woods of Maine. These conditions are tough on optics and electronics so I was excited to see how it would perform during all-day hunts in snow and freezing rain for days on end.

Rifle Pros

Flat Sacrificial Lens Covers Made of Glass

There is a lot to like with the AEMS for tracking deer in snow. One of my favorites is the sacrificial flat lens covers that protect the optic’s glass. These lens covers have great clarity and so I never take them off, I don’t really see the need to, this way my lenses are always protected from getting scratched. It also helps the elements slide right off them so your optic stays clear a higher percentage of the time in inclement weather conditions. I found that rain, snow, pine needles, and other debris would often slide off the glass keeping the reticle obstruction-free for the most part.

Holosun AEMS Glass Sacrificial Lenses
Holosun AEMS Glass Sacrificial Lens Covers

Snow or rain would sometimes cover the glass, but I could brush it off with my hand or glove, and it was ready to go again very quickly. From my experience, regular rifle scopes, peep sights, and buckhorn sights all require more maintenance in these tough weather conditions than the AEMS. With these other sights, I’m always breaking off a twig or using paper towels to clean them, but with this sight, it is much less of an annoyance and I felt like I could focus on hunting more than if I was going to be able to see down my sights when a buck jumps out in front of me.

Enclosed Emitter

The reason I was able to brush off the elements from the lens covers without affecting the red dot is because the AEMS utilizes an enclosed emitter. This means the light emitter of the red dot is enclosed within the waterproof housing. For this reason, the red dot does not get affected by the elements. Even if there a little snow or rain on the lens, I could still see the red dot in most cases to make a shot. I recommend an enclosed emitter when hunting in general but especially if you’re going to be in tough weather conditions.

Holosun AEMS Enclosed Emitter Reflex Sight
Holosun AEMS Enclosed Emitter Reflex Sight

Long Battery Life, Solar Panels, Bright Light

First off, the red dot is very bright, even on a sunny day in the bright reflective snow the dot shows clearly when the brightness is turned up. I’ve always been skeptical of battery-operated optics because electronics can fail in harsh hunting scenarios or run out of battery at the worst times. However, the AEMS did put my mind at ease by giving it a battery life of up to 50,000 hours when using a CR2032 battery at mid-range brightness settings. This means it should last about 3-5 years on a single battery depending on brightness level, shake-awake technology, and solar panels.

In my experience, I just manually adjusted the brightness on the AMES based on the weather conditions of that day. I often had it quite bright so that I could see the dot against the white snow, but even then I never had the AEMS at full brightness. For me, it’s easier to just plan on replacing the battery every year than to worry about the fancy shake-awake and solar panels, this way I know the battery won’t die on me.

Holosun AMES Solar Panel
Holosun AMES Solar Panel

Scope Box, Reticle Options, Fast Acquisition

There are 3 reticle options to choose from; red dot, circle, or both. I used all of the reticles but I kept coming back to the red dot. The other reticle options seem to take up too much room in the optic housing for me.

When it comes to quick-shooting, the red dot was advantageous over iron sights in my opinion because you only need to put one thing onto your target vs two things when you’re using iron sights. This makes target acquisition much faster in my opinion which is perfect for tracking deer since shots are almost always quick.

Interestingly, after I bought the AEMS, a new version of the AEMS came out which has a much bigger scope box. It’s called the Ronin AEMS Max. If you’re on the fence with the AMES because of its small size then the Max could be a good option. However, I will say I was first skeptical of the AEMS because I thought it was going to be too small, but I ended up really liking the size. I mounted the AEMS as close to my eye as I could because that gave me a bigger perceived scope box, and that seemed to do the trick for me.

That said, I am interested in getting my hands on the Ronin AEMS Max to compare the two to see what I like better.

Overall Usability and Feel

The Holosun AEMS was easy to sight in, it’s the same as sighting in a rifle scope. There are windage and elevation adjustment screws.

It’s also much smaller and lighter than a rifle scope, but it is a little bigger than iron sights. It only weighs 3.9 oz. The additional weight vs iron sights is well worth the benefits of the red dot in my opinion to have that faster acquisition. It is also much lighter and less bulky than a rifle scope making it great for tracking where I’m carrying my rifle for +/- 7 miles per day. It makes it easier to get through the brush because of the reduced bulk and it’s easier to carry on those long days tracking when you’re walking +/- 7 miles per day, every extra reduction in weight helps when carrying a gun that far.

Rifle Pros Summary

  • Flat Glass Lens Covers
  • Enclosed Emitter
  • Bright Dot, Long Battery Life, Solar Panels
  • Scope Box, Reticle Options, Fast Acquisition
  • Easy to Sight In
  • Size and Weight

Rifle Cons

Although there is a lot to like about the AEMS, there are some considerations to be aware of.

For me, the AEMS is an excellent size if you’re using the red dot reticle. In my opinion, the other two reticles (circle & red dot with circle) are too crowded in the optic for the smaller housing. For me, I don’t see a hunting situation where the red dot isn’t the best option.

I also wasn’t super impressed with the auto-brightness in hunting situations. In my opinion, it could have been a little brighter. It’s not bad, just not as bright as I’d hope when on the auto-brightness setting. This isn’t a deal-breaker, though, as I just manually adjust the brightness, and that works just fine.

Rifle Cons Summary

  • Not a lot of Scope Box room if not using the red dot feature
  • Auto brightness is slightly too dim

Holosun Customer Service

As stated above in the shotgun section, Holosun did respond to my questions via email and were quick to respond. They even sent me a free mount, albeit not the right one. Overall, they were able to help me get what I needed.

The Holosun website also appears outdated, missing some of their newer products (like the Ronin AEMS Max) and does not function well. It’s slow and laggy, making it feel like a spammy website and a little sketchy to buy from. I’m hoping they update their website for better user experience soon.

Final Verdict

I’m very particular about the gear I use when hunting and am a stickler when it comes to gear performance, I guess that’s my nature as a gear reviewer. The Holosun AEMS exceeded my expectations because it does what it promises in tough situations. I plan to keep the AEMS on my rifle for this upcoming deer hunting season, and may purchase a second one to put on my turkey hunting shotgun permanently.

I also really like the idea of the Ronin AEMS Max and would like to get my hands on that to compare it to the AEMS. Having extra field of view with the AEMS Max could make fast-acquisition even better despite more optic surface area to catch debris and added weight.

Lone Wolf Custom Gear .75 As A Hybrid Saddle Platform (Review)

I’ve been saddle hunting for almost a decade, one of my first blog posts ever was on the O.G. Aero Hunter Tree Saddle in 2018. I used that Aero Hunter for two years before writing that post. In my decade of using saddles, I’ve tried many different brands. You can read my reviews of them here: (Aero Hunter, JX3 Hybrid, Tethrd ESS, Drayad Drey, and Cruzr XC). I say this to illustrate that I believe I have the experience to give you a quality review of how the Lone Wolf Custom Gear .75 (LWCG .75 or .75) works as a hybrid saddle platform.

Saddles are great in many aspects which is why I have been exclusively hunting in them for 10 years. However, in my experience, they aren’t perfect. Their comfort for all-day hunts is lacking – hip pinch is a common problem for me. Next, shooting weak side is tough, and hunting from awkward trees can be difficult because you are subject to the pull of gravity since you’re suspended.

I bought the LWCG .75 primarily for a hybrid saddle-hunting platform. I was looking for something to add more comfort for all-day hunts. I also wanted a large platform so I could stand on it and more easily shoot on my weak side. Below I explain my thoughts on the LWCG .75 as a hybrid saddle platform.

This post contains Amazon and other affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my link, at no extra cost to you. Of course, you are not obligated to use my links, but it does help fund these posts in hopes of bringing more value to you!

Pros of The LWCG .75 as a Hybrid Saddle Platform

Can Maneuver Completely Around The Tree

Just like with a ring of steps or another saddle platform, you can still move completely around the tree by using your steps in conjunction with the .75 saddle platform. I attach my Bullman ring of steps using the silent EWO OCB to the bottom of the LWCG .75. The OCB gets surprisingly just as tight as a rachet strap which allows you to put side pressure on the LWCG .75 without it kicking out. This will enable you to shoot in all directions and keep the tree between you and the deer for extra concealment.

Lone Wolf Custom Gear .75 Used In Conjunction with Saddle Gear
Lone Wolf Custom Gear .75 Used In Conjunction with Saddle Gear
Over-Center Buckle (OCB) and Strap
Over-Center Buckle (OCB) and Strap
Where To Place OCB Strap on LWCG .75
Where To Place OCB Strap on LWCG .75

Easier To Shoot Weak Side Shots

Weak side shots are also much easier with the hybrid approach because if a deer comes in on the weak side you can just stand up on the .75 platform and spin around with minimal movement, and thus your weak side shot becomes your strong side shot. If you’re just using a saddle, weak side shots are tricky because they involve a lot of movement, strain, and practice to get the shot off accurately.

Sit, Stand, or Lean

Another huge advantage of using the hybrid approach is that you can stay comfortable longer. This is because you have the option to stand and completely take the weight off your saddle. For example, I do get some leg/hip pinch in my saddle and for all-day sits, I can get fidgety when I get uncomfortable. But with the .75 I could completely remove the hip pinch by standing for a while.

Also, if I wanted to I could turn around, flip the LWCG .75 seat down, and sit in it like a regular hang-on treestand. In this scenario, my saddle would be acting as my safety harness.

Sitting In LWCG .75 Seat while using a saddle
Sitting In LWCG .75 Seat while using a saddle
Leaning in a saddle using the LWCG .75 as a platform
Leaning in a saddle using the LWCG .75 as a platform
Standing on the LWCG .75 with a saddle
Standing on the LWCG .75 with a saddle

You Need A Harness Anyway, Why Not Use A Saddle?

Another point for the hybrid approach is that when you’re using a hang-on stand you need to be harnessed in for safety anyway, so you might as well use a saddle as your harness so that you can take advantage of the benefits of a saddle and a hang-on.

Big Trees

I did find that it was harder to shoot 360º when in larger trees with the .75. In these scenarios it was nice also having a saddle so that I could use it if needed to maneuver around the tree for more shooting options.

No Knee Fatigue

Another big comfort upgrade with the hybrid approach is that you can use the flipped-up .75 seat as your knee cushion instead of grinding your knees into the tree bark. You’ll want to add a cushion to the backside of the seat but when you do your knees will be fatigue-free (unlike the photo below) but you get the idea.

No Knee Fatigue in LWCG .75 hybrid approach
No Knee Fatigue in LWCG .75 hybrid approach

Cons of the LWCG .75 as a Hyrbid Saddle Platform

Takes Time and Noise To Setup Extra Gear

The biggest con for me is the time and noise of setting up the saddle gear. I found once I got the .75 setup in the tree, I was ready to hunt and I didn’t want to spend the extra time and noise it took to also get the saddle setup in the tree, especially in the dark during morning hunts.

Heavier and Bulkier To Pack In

The next biggest con for me was the heavier and bulkier gear to pack in. Since I was using the saddle gear less and less, the extra saddle gear felt unnecessary, especially the bulky ring of steps. I found the advantages of the saddle did not usually outweigh the extra work of carrying it in. As a long-time saddle hunter, I was even surprised at my decision to use the saddle equipment less and less.

Looking The Wrong Way In A Saddle When Sitting

If you get fatigued in your saddle and you want to sit down and use the .75 as a regular hang-on treestand, you will face the exact opposite way of how you set up in the saddle. Most of the time this is an issue because that means it is the least likely place you expect deer to be coming from. I found that using my .75 as a regular hang-on treestand was not that feasible in almost all situations. When I did, I felt like I could easily miss an opportunity at a deer.

Platform Cables Are In The Way

On the .75 there are cables that attach from the platform to the post to keep the stand safe. These cables are a little in the way when you’re trying to maneuver around the ring of steps and get back onto the platform. Although not the best, it wasn’t too bad I was still able to maneuver quite well with practice.

LWCG .75 Cables can get in the way when using as hybrid saddle platform
LWCG .75 Cables can get in the way when using as hybrid saddle platform

Awkward Trees and Fighting Gravity

If you setup in a tree that is leaning then it can be hard to use the .75 with saddle equipment because it can be hard to get back onto the platform depending on how gravity is acting on the leaning tree. It’s also just uncomfortable when one knee is fighting gravity all day in an uneven tree. In these situations, it was just easier to just use the .75 by itself so I didn’t have to worry about fighting gravity like in a saddle.

Small Trees

I’m often hunting swamps where there are normally small awkward trees. In these scenarios, it doesn’t make sense to use a saddle. Saddle movement is more easily noticed in small trees compared to a hang-on. When hunting in these situations I’m also somewhat skylined, the least amount of movement is most valuable to me. Additionally, in small trees, I can shoot 360º just using the .75 so the saddle becomes irrelevant when hunting in smaller trees. In my opinion, the .75 by itself is the superior choice for hunting in areas that have small and even medium-sized trees.

Side Pressure and Kick-out

When running the LWCG .75 as a saddle platform I found that it did not have great side-pressure resistance with just one strap (like it is most popularly used). For example, when you’re trying to go around the tree on your ring of steps the side pressure on the platform will lift and kick-out off the tree.

However, as I mentioned above, a solution for this is using an EWO OCB strap at the bottom of the stand which my Bullman ring of steps are attached to. This OCB strap did a good job of tightening the bottom of the stand, allowing for side pressure. The OCB is silent and tightens just about as well as a ratchet strap.

LWCG .75 side pressure with OCB Buckle
LWCG .75 side pressure with OCB Buckle

Final Thoughts

My purpose in buying the LWCG .75 was to determine if using it in conjunction with my saddle equipment, as a hybrid approach, would provide me with the ultimate hunting setup by having the best of both worlds. What I found even surprised me. Not only did I not prefer the hybrid approach, but I didn’t even prefer my saddle equipment anymore. My conclusion with this experiment was that the LWCG .75 on its own was what I found myself gravitating to for its simplicity in setup, versatility in awkward trees, and comfort for all-day hunts.

If you’re a saddle hunter who is looking for a hybrid method, I recommend trying the .75. The cons of using the .75 as a saddle platform are not much different than any other saddle platform or ring of steps. You may be surprised, like me, to find that you actually might prefer using the .75 by itself like I did.

Lone Wolf Custom Gear .75 Review | 30-Days Field-Tested

This review provides an in-depth evaluation of the Lone Wolf Custom Gear .75 Hang-On Stand (LWCG .75 or .75), based on over 30 days of field testing across an entire hunting season, including approximately 10 all-day hunts. Through testing, I’ve found that the attention to detail of this stand is remarkable. You can tell LWCG has worked hard to find every little nuisance concerning a hang-on treestand and has attempted to solve the problem.

Some of the highlights of this stand include modern modularity features like climbing stick integration, integrative bow holders, backpack-compatible shelf, and built-in attachment points. Not to mention the added comfort from the custom parts you can order combined with the adjustable platform and seat angles. Hanging is also quick and easy due to its lightweight design and the versa button/cam buckle strap combo.

While minor issues such as occasional instability with the cam-over feature and some initial aluminum noise exist, the stand’s overall performance makes it a top contender for mobile hunters prioritizing a balance of comfort, mobility, and versatility. This review also shares valuable tips for setup and highlights the importance of customizing the stand for a perfect fit.

This post contains Amazon and other affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my link, at no extra cost to you. Of course, you are not obligated to use my links, but it does help fund these posts in hopes of bringing more value to you!

Customizing Your Stand With Custom Parts

As the name suggests, Lone Wolf Custom Gear offers one of the most valuable features for treestand hunters: customization. You can tailor your stand to fit your body type and hunting style, ensuring maximum comfort during long hours in the field. Comfort is essential when treestand hunting for whitetails, making it critical to select the right customizations for your needs.

When I first purchased my stand, I was uncertain about what custom options to choose. However, after extensive research – reading reviews and watching countless YouTube videos – I determined the best configuration for my body type and preferences.

As someone who is 6’3″, weighs 155 lbs, and wears size 11 boots, I prioritized keeping my stand as low-profile and mobile as possible without sacrificing comfort. After consideration, I chose the Standard Option for both the seat style and post height. The .75 setup struck the perfect balance between minimalism and usability. After extensive use, I’m very satisfied with my decision—it’s lightweight, functional, and comfortable.

Important Note: If you customize your stand beyond the standard setup, be aware that Lone Wolf Custom Gear climbing sticks may not integrate properly with the treestand. Personally, I don’t carry my climbing sticks integrated with the stand, but I appreciate having that option since I opted for the standard setup. If this feature is important to you, make sure to carefully review compatibility before purchasing.

LWCG .75 vs the 1.0 and .5 Stand Comparisons

Lone Wolf Custom Gear offers several variations of their hang-on treestands, the main ones I looked into for being the most mobile were the .5, .75, and 1.0 models. The 1.0 Stand is essentially a .75 with a slightly wider platform, providing more footroom while maintaining the same length. On the other hand, the .5 Stand features a shorter platform but retains the same width as the .75.

After weighing my options, I chose the .75 Stand because it struck the perfect balance for my needs. The additional footroom compared to the .5 made it significantly more comfortable for longer hunts. At the same time, the .75 retains a slim profile, making it easier to carry without snagging on branches or sticks—something I imagine could be more of an issue with the wider 1.0.

I’m happy with my decision to go with the .75, as I don’t think I could have gone any smaller. Even with the .75, my toes hang slightly off the end of the platform. The .5 would likely have been too cramped for my preferences and hunting style.

Field-Tested Pros of The LWCG .75

Pro #1: Lightweight

The .75 is by far the easiest stand I’ve ever hung in a tree. It’s so lightweight that you can easily use one hand to hold up the treestand while your other hand wraps the strap around the tree. The aluminum, spiderweb-like construction keeps it strong yet feather-light, far outperforming heavy, traditional steel treestands. Based on LWCG website specs, the base stand weighs 7.5 lbs and has 1.13 lbs of accessories, for a total of 8.6 lbs. In reality, it is closer to 8.2 lbs. With my 8.8 lbs backpack, the total weight os 17 lbs.

Lone Wolf Custom Gear .75 Weight
Lone Wolf Custom Gear .75 Weight
Lone Wolf Custom Gear .75 Weight with Badlands Backpack
Lone Wolf Custom Gear .75 Weight with Badlands Backpack

LWCG Website Treestand and Accessory Weights:

  • Base Stand weight – 7.5 lbs
  • Stand cam Strap (included)- 5 ounces
  • Stand cushion (included) – 4 ounces
  • Lower Cam strap (optional) – 5 ounces
  • Backpack straps (included) – 7 ounces
  • Waist support (optional) – 6 ounces

Pro #2: Adjustability and Comfort

In my opinion, one of the best features of the whole LWCG hang-on treestand line is that they can move the platform up/down so that your stand is 90º to the ground so you’re always standing on a flat platform no matter the type of three that you’re in. Additionally, once the stand is hung you can adjust the seat up/down so that you’re sitting at the angle that is most comfortable to you depending on what angle your platform is at.

Adjustable LWCG .75 Seat Angle
Adjustable LWCG .75 Seat Angle
Adjustable LWCG .75 Platform Angle
Adjustable LWCG .75 Platform Angle

The teeth on both the platform and the post work exceptionally well. When setting the stand on crooked trees, applying force locks the stand securely at a 90º angle to gravity, even if some of the teeth aren’t fully in contact with the tree. Despite this, the design ensures a stable and reliable hold, allowing you to hunt confidently in awkward or uneven setups. I’ve used this stand in small, crooked swamp trees and have been impressed with how it keeps the platform parallel to the ground, even when the tree isn’t. This feature provides both comfort and stability, which are essential for long hunts.

Pro #3: Hanging The LWCG .75

The versa buttons that the straps attach to make it easy to get the stand attached with minimal movement and noise. You just attach the loop of the strap to the versa button, then swing it around the tree and attach the other loop to the versa button. Then pull the strap slack through the cam buckle as snug as you can reasonably get it and you’re almost done.

Lone Wolf Custom Gear Versa Button and Cam Buckle Strap Loops
Lone Wolf Custom Gear Versa Button and Cam Buckle Strap Loops

Next you need to cam the stand over to really tighen it to the tree. I always first use my hand to fold the platform up, then push the treestand down as hard as I can, and then cam the platform back over. Sometimes this is good enough and you’re all set. Other times I would have to get onto the stand and cam it down the rest of the way by using my bodyweight. I do this by lifting the platform with my foot, using my knee on the back of the seat to push the post down with my bodyweight, and then camming the platform back down to create a tight, secure lock against the tree. The pros of this is that it’s fast and easy. The cons of this method is that it’s loud and sketchy. I talk more about the cons of this in the cons section of this post below.

Pro #4: Packability and Portability

This stand doubles as a backpack, thanks to its integrated straps and modular design. The seat folds to a 90º angle and locks in place, creating a sturdy shelf for your backpack during transport. I paired mine with the Badlands Rise backpack, which fits perfectly on the shelf. It’s also lightweight enough for morning and evening hunts, but just big enough so that it holds all my essentials for all-day hunts, including my Lone Wolf climbing sticks.

LWCG .75 Backpack Shelf with Backpack Attached
LWCG .75 Backpack Shelf with Backpack Attached
Wearing LWCG .75 backpack with Shoulder straps
Wearing LWCG .75 backpack with Shoulder Straps

Stick Integration

The .75 includes slots for integrating LWCG climbing sticks, but I prefer to carry mine in my backpack. For those who like to integrate their sticks, this feature could be a great convenience.

LWCG Double Step Sticks Integrated into LWCG .75 Stand
LWCG Double Step Sticks Integrated into LWCG .75 Stand

Attachment Points

The stand has multiple attachment points for securing gear. I use the included strap to fasten my backpack to the stand for transport using the attachment points. This way I never forget my treestand strap. I’ve also experimented with paracord and a Nite Ize CamJam, but the strap remains my go-to option.

Cam Buckle Strap Loop Attached to Stand Attachment Point
Cam Buckle Strap Loop Attached to Stand Attachment Point

Pro #5: It Can Also Be Used As A Hybrid Saddle Platform

The .75’s lightweight and compact design makes it a versatile choice for hybrid hunters. You can use it as a traditional hang-on stand or pair it with a saddle for added flexibility.

In my experience, after using the LWCG .75 Stand a few times with my saddle gear, I was surprised to find myself phasing out the saddle equipment entirely. Having used saddle gear exclusively for 10 years, this shift was unexpected, but the .75 won me over. For morning and evening hunts, setting up the saddle gear felt like unnecessary extra effort, time, and noise. Eventually, I even stopped bringing it on all-day hunts.

Pro#6: Bow Holder Attachment

The optional bow holder attachment allows you to keep your bow upright and within arm’s reach, making it easy to grab when a deer appears unexpectedly. I hunted most of the season without this attachment but felt paranoid about missing opportunities, so I ordered one. Unfortunately, it arrived after bow season ended, but I’m confident it will be a great addition next season.

Pro #7 Changing/Adding Clothes

One benefit I rediscovered using the hang-on style treestand is how easy it is to layer clothing, change socks, or add toe-warmers compared to in a saddle. The ropes and straps of a saddle setup make these tasks cumbersome, but the open platform of a hang-on stand makes it simple.

Pro #8: Aluminum Noise

Compared to a saddle, which is primarily fabric, the LWCG .75 does produce more noise. However, I was pleasantly surprised by how minimal it was. The only noticeable instances of noise occurred when I accidentally banged a buckle against the stand, which was more user error than a design flaw.

Despite initially thinking silencing materials would be essential, I didn’t feel the immediate need to add any during the season. That said, I plan to apply some silencing materials in specific areas next year to further reduce potential noise.

One reason noise wasn’t a significant issue is the slim profile of the .75. The stand is narrower than my body profile, allowing me to block most twigs and branches while walking. Additionally, carrying a backpack on the opposite side of the stand further helped shield it from brush, minimizing and deadening unwanted sounds.

Pro #9: Excellent Platform Grip

The grip on the platform of the .75 is great. It has ridges/grooves in the frame so that your boots have good traction so you don’t slip. This is important in rainy, snowy, or icy conditions. Many other stands on the market don’t have this important feature.

LWCG .7 Platform Grip
LWCG .7 Platform Grip

Field-Tested Cons of The LWCG .75

Con #1: Cam-Over Feature

One aspect of the LWCG .75 that I didn’t fully love is the cam-over feature. This involves lifting the platform up with your foot, using your knee to push the post down with your weight, and then camming the platform back down to create a tight, secure lock against the tree. While this method provides a solid hold, it can be loud and feels a bit sketchy, especially on trees that aren’t perfectly straight. I’ve even had the .75 almost slide off the tree during the cam-over process on certain angled trunks.

To mitigate any risks, I always ensure both my lineman’s belt and tree strap are securely attached before attempting the cam-over. That said, I’ve found that in some cases, the entire body cam-over feature isn’t entirely necessary. I can achieve a secure enough bite into the tree simply by camming the platform into place by hand, rather than using my full body weight. This approach feels safer and still provides a reliable setup.

There are also other methods of getting a secure fit, for example, you could use two cam buckle straps instead of just one. Or you could even use a ratchet strap.

Con #2: Seat Cushion Placement

Although I like the seat cushion material, the placement of the cushion isn’t perfect. When you fold the treestand into its shelf position the tree bracket teeth fold into the seat cushion. Over time I expect that the teeth will bite into and start tearing the seat cushion. You can mitigate this a little by installing the seat cushion so it’s further away from the teeth, but then the cushion hangs over the seat, which has worked well for me.

Lone Wolf Custom Gear Seat Shift to Prevent Damage
Lone Wolf Custom Gear Seat Shift to Prevent Damage

I am surprised how well the seat cushion held up though after using it all season with the teeth folded into it. There is no damage to it so it seems like the cushion will last longer than I was initially anticipating.

Lone Wolf Custom Gear Seat Damage
Lone Wolf Custom Gear Seat Damage

LWCG .75 Tips and Tricks

Tip/Trick #1: Seat Cushion Position

Make sure you put the seat cushion on so that the brown part is facing up, so you’re sitting on it. The black part with the logo should be faced into the treestand. If you don’t do this the seat will be very squeaky against certain fabrics.

How To Put The Seat Cushion on LWCG .75
How To Put The Seat Cushion on LWCG .75

Tip/Trick #2: Wasit Belt

For this first season, I toughed it out without using a waist belt because the stand does not come with one. However, I highly recommend it because my shoulders were burning for my longer hikes into my spots, especially during all-day hunts when I have the extra weight of water and food. But I still think it would be worth it for morning and evening hunts.

I haven’t bought mine yet but I’ve been doing some research, the LWCG waist belt is only 50$ which is a good deal compared to some of the other options I’ve found, so I might go with LWCG. However, I also found some more expensive but more comfortable options. I’ll list those (non-affiliated) options below:

All-Day Hunts In The LWCG .75

Comfort

Out of the approximately 30 hunts in this stand, around 10 or so were all-day hunts during the rut. As a historically hardcore saddle hunter, I was so impressed with how comfortable this hang-on stand was. I was able to sit in this stand all day with no problems. Periodically, I would stand up to give my butt a break from sitting so long and let the blood flow come back to my limbs but that was about it. I felt like I was able to be more still in this hang-on than in my saddle since I was more comfortable and I’ve tried and owned the most comfortable saddles on the market.

Cushion Thickness

The seat cushion is the perfect thickness for me so I could go a long time without my butt getting fatigued but if you’re bigger than me you might want to double up on the seat cushions. But I would recommend buying another LWCG seat if you do this because they work so well. It’s some kind of memory foam that is also very water-resistant which is great for comfort and being in poor weather conditions. It also has pre-cut holes in the right spot so you can stack the two cushions easily.

Platform Size

The .75 stand was a little small for all-day hunts. It would have been nicer to have the 1.0 stand for a little more width because I feel like I don’t have a lot of footroom, especially during cold conditions when I wear bigger insulated winter boots. However, it was just big enough for me. I don’t see myself upgrading to the 1.0 though because I like the slimmer profile for carrying the stand in quietly since it fits within my body frame. The trade-off is that I have less footroom but I’m okay with that for the extra mobility.

LWCG .75 Platform Room While in Seated Position
LWCG .75 Platform Room While in Seated Position

Lone Wolf Custom Gear Customer Service

I’ve had to contact LWCG Customer Support a few times while using their equipment. While their response times aren’t the fastest, I’ve found them to be helpful and reasonably quick to get back to you. That said, since hunting season is their busiest time of year, response times may slow down during this period.

As a small business, LWCG likely has to carefully plan production to avoid overstocking, which means some items may sell out during hunting season. Additionally, many of their staff may be out hunting themselves, which could further impact availability and response times.

One great feature LWCG offers is their 14-day free return policy, allowing you to ensure the gear fits your needs and expectations before fully committing.

Lone Wolf Custom Gear Return Period Proof

Pro Tip: If you’re considering purchasing LWCG gear, plan ahead and buy well before hunting season begins. It can take them 7-10 business days to ship items, which means it can be 2 to 3 weeks before your gear arrives at your door. This gives you time to get any questions answered by customer support, test the stand, make returns if necessary, and ensure that the equipment you want is in stock.

Lone Wolf Custom Gear Shipping Times Proof

Final Thoughts – Do I Recommend The LWCG .75?

As a decade-long saddle hunter, I was genuinely surprised by how much I enjoyed the Lone Wolf Custom Gear .75 Stand. Its modern lightweight build, modular design, and ease of use make it an excellent choice for mobile hunters seeking versatility without sacrificing comfort. The stand’s slim profile and thoughtful features, like the optional bow holder and excellent platform grip, enhance its practicality for both short and all-day hunts. While minor drawbacks like the cam-over feature and limited platform size may require some adjustment, these issues are easily outweighed by the stand’s overall performance and adaptability.

Ultimately, the LWCG .75 strikes a near-perfect balance between portability and functionality, making it a standout option for hunters who value mobility and comfort. If you’re willing to invest the time to customize it to your needs and plan your purchase ahead of hunting season, I highly recommend giving it a try—it’s a game-changer for both saddle and hang-on hunters alike.

How To Scout For Big Bucks In April

April is probably my favorite time to scout for whitetails because the snow is close to gone, the weather is still cool, and the bugs aren’t bad, and I’m itching to get out there. This makes April one of the most productive months for scouting because you can get a lot of miles covered comfortably while seeing the deer sign from the previous year.

When To Scout Deer In April

Usually, I don’t start spring scouting for deer until the snow is just about gone. It is much easier to walk and takes less effort to scout when the snow is gone versus when there is a lot of now. Additionally, I like to see the ground under the snow so I can check for sign made during the prior season’s rut timeframe, mostly scrapes.

I don’t particularly care where deer are during April other than it’s interesting to know. This is because where deer are in the winter is rarely the same as where they will be during the summer and fall. The deer will shift from their wintering range as food sources change and cover increases with spring/ summer greenery.

How To Scout Deer In April

First, I find properties that I think are likely to hold bucks using Google Earth Pro or OnX WebMap Desktop application. They are both good options for e-scouting. To learn how I e-scout you can check out my article: Tips For Scouting Deer Using Google Earth. I also have a YouTube video where I describe some of this as well.

Rut Sign

Once I find 10 or so properties I like to go to the site and start scouting them, looking for the previous season’s rut sign, particularly big buck sign like scrapes and tall rubs. It may take going to a lot of properties before finding something exceptional. I would say 1 out of every 10 places I go to I find a great location, and maybe two more decent areas.

If you find a lot of rut sign then chances are it will be a good spot to hunt during the rut the following year. If the sign is made in an open area, you may need to find some thicker cover where the deer feel more comfortable moving during daylight hours. Often rut sign is made at night, so that is something important to be aware of.

tall buck rub

Other Clues

I am still keeping my eye open for any other clues on the landscape. For example, oak trees, apple trees, other treestands, human pressure, big tracks, deer trails…etc. These other clues may help you determine what time of year is best to hunt these spots. A lot of these little clues can help you determine how deer move through an area throughout the seasons.

Bedding Areas

Once I’m in a spot with good sign I will start trying to figure out the bedding areas. This is largely influenced by the landscape. If it’s hilly, bucks are probably bedding on points of ridges. If its wet, bucks are probably bedding in the thick swamps.

I will use imagery to guess where deer might be bedding based on the sign I am seeing and go search those areas to see what I can dig up. If there is high-quality bedding in areas near the rut sign there’s a good chance those bedding areas will be used during the hunting season. I will prepare trees as close to the bedding areas as possible without feeling like I will spook deer out on my way in.

buck bed

You’ve Found Great Rut Sign, Now What?

Prepare Your Trees

I used to bring everything I needed with more to prepare a tree for my tree saddle. Now, to save weight and energy I don’t bring much on my first scouting mission. If after scouting the property I determine a property is worthwhile to hunt I will take a GPS point on where I want to hunt.

If trees need to be prepped, which often they do, I will come back with more gear another day and get the location or locations prepped. I usually keep all of my gear in my vehicle when I’m scouting so sometimes I will go back to the vehicle if I’m not too far away and prep the tree that day.

If allowed I will fully prepare a tree for saddle hunting with screw-in-steps. I do this in the springtime because I want to make all my disturbances during this time when bucks have plenty of time to settle back down on the intrusion.

It also makes getting into the tree so much quieter during the hunting season. I do use mobile hunting equipment, I hunt from a tree saddle and use climbing sticks to get into trees most of the time. However, I do think that when you’re getting up into a tree with all that gear in a bedding area it can harm you.

For example, on morning hunts you have to get up much earlier because it takes time to get set up in a tree and if a deer walks under you while you’re still setting up it can spook the deer. Additionally, in the afternoons when deer are in their beds, they can hear you shuffling up a tree. Although they may not know exactly what you are they may just wait until quitting time before walking by you.

new tribe areo hunter saddle tree prep

What I Bring When Scouting For Deer

1st Scouting Trip

2nd Scouting Trip To Prep Trees

  • Backpack
  • Waist Pack
  • Pole Saw, Removable Blade
  • Trimmers
  • Trail Cameras, SD Cards, and Batteries
  • Screw-In Steps (At Least In Car)
  • Screw-In Hangers
  • Hammer (for breaking dead limbs fast)

Create a Spreadsheet

Enter your best spots into a spreadsheet so you can remember them all. I would also add a column of what wind directions you can take advantage of in certain spots. Additionally, I’d enter what time of year they would be good for and any other notes you might think are important for the site.

Rinse and Repeat

Once I’ve gone through the 10 or so areas that I wanted to scout I will get another list of 10 or so properties and repeat the process. I now have way more properties and areas to hunt than I know what to do with. But every year I found a few properties that are better than my best properties from previous years. Also, some properties aren’t as hot some years depending on changes in environmental facts, like food availability so it’s good to have a variety of properties to fall back on.

Additional Benefits of Scouting Deer In April

Look For Sheds

If you’re a shed hunter April is also a great time to be in the woods because there your odds of finding shed antlers is higher than any other time of the year. Also, the sheds haven’t been on the ground too long so they’ll still be in good shape.

Maine Whitetail Buck Shed Antler Found in April

You’re Also Scouting For Turkeys

I’ve found some of my best turkey hunting spots while scouting for deer in April. This is because when you’re looking for deer you find overlooked turkey honey-holes that you would have never found. At this time of year, fields are turning green and turkeys are using these fields to feed in and display. Mark these spots on your GPS because the turkeys will likely be in these areas during the beginning of the hunting season too. Since you’re scouting for deer and turkey at the same time, this time of year is a very efficient time to scout.

Maine Turkey Hunting

Final Thoughts

Depending on where you’re located the snow may melt slower or faster. The best time to scout is just when the snow has melted. For example, April is usually a good bet in my home state of Maine, especially in southern Maine. In northern Maine, you’re better off waiting until May generally because snow remains in the northern areas longer. But if you’re in Massachusetts or New York your best time to scout may be earlier, like March. So pay attention to snow depths in the areas you plan to scout.

GumLeaf Field Welly Review After One Year of Rigorous Use

This GumLeaf Field Welly review is based on the rigorous use of these boots in the last year while I used them for my job as a wetland surveyor and throughout the hunting season. Because I’m often swimming through thick brush and thorns my job was an excellent way to see what these boots are made of. Comfort, fit, sole quality, durability, longevity, and more topics are covered in this review. 

The Field Welly Boots are not the only type of boot Gumleaf makes. They have more options to choose from on their website. I chose to buy the Field Welly’s because they are the lightest and simplest boots in the GumLeaf lineup. After using them almost daily over the last 365 days, here are my thoughts on these boots.

*I first wrote this article after wearing these boots for a few months and said I would update it once I had worn them for a full year. This post has now been updated to reflect my experience after using these boots for a full year.*

I bought these boots with my own money for this review and am not sponsored by GumLeaf.

This post contains Amazon and other affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my link, at no extra cost to you. Of course, you are not obligated to use my links, but it does help fund these posts in hopes of bringing more value to you!

Why Are GumLeaf Boots Special?

The Gumleaf boots claim to fame is that they’re handcrafted boots made out of 85% real rubber, which is a high amount of rubber compared to other rubber boots on the market.

The benefit of having more rubber content in the boots is that they last longer before they start to crack. Almost all boots on the market use clay and plastic filler in their rubber which makes them crack.

Gumleaf states that these boots if cared for properly, should last 10+ years. It’s been stated that sole will often wear out before the rubber cracks, which is impressive, if true.

However, I’ve only owned these boots for a year so in my experience that remains to be seen, although I am hopeful it’s true. If this is true, then these boots, although expensive, will pay for themselves and cost less in the long run. You’ll make your money back because you’re not buying cheap rubber boots with low rubber content every year or two.

GumLeaf Field Welly Review – 1 Year Later

I did a video review on 8 different rubber boots, and the GumLeaf Field Welly’s were one of the boots. This video was also created after I used the boots for 1-year and summarizes what you’ll find in this article. The video is linked to the GumLeaf part of the video so you’ll jump right to it:

Field Welly Price

These boots are 285$, 2-3x more expensive than most rubber boots on the market that have more plastic/clay filler. However, because of the longer life of these boots, the idea is that they end up being cheaper in the long run. I bought the GumLeaf Field Welly boots because I was tired of my other boots cracking after 2-3 years but mostly because I wanted a tall, lightweight, completely rubber boot that had good traction and a good sole that would last.

GumLeaf Field Wellys Best Rubber Boots For Hunting with High Rubber Content

Check GumLeaf Price

Field Welly Height

I bought the size EU43, which is approximately a size 11 US. These boots are 17.5 inches tall. I believe there is a slight variation depending on your boot size.

How Tall Are The GumLeaf Field Wellys

Field Welly Weight

As I mentioned above, I own the EU43 size, which is approximately a size 11 US. At 17.5 inches tall they weigh 2 lbs 6.7 oz per boot, 1086g, or 2.39 lbs. This is competitively lightweight for a tall full-rubber boot.

How Much Do The GumLeaf Field Wellys Weigh
GumLeaf Field Welly Review: These Boots Weigh 2 lbs 6.7 oz per boot

Comfort

I’ve tested many rubber boots and I can confidently say that the Field Wellys are one of the most comfortable if not the most comfortable rubber boots I’ve ever worn that are full-rubber and this tall. What makes them most comfortable is their outsole which we will dive into later in this post.

GumLeaf Field Wellys Compared to Other Rubber Boots
GumLeaf Field Wellys Reviewed Compared to Other Rubber Boots

Fit

When ordering your boot size it will be in EU instead of US measurements because these boots are made in the EU. The conversion from EU to US is close but isn’t perfect so be sure to get boots that fit perfectly.

The first pair I bought almost fit but I ended up returning them to get a smaller pair to see if they would be better or worse. They ended up being perfect. It is important to get a perfect fit with these boots so the heel isn’t loose in the heel pocket which would cause blistering.

GumLeaf Field Welly Fit
Each EU size will move your big toe 1/3 to ½ an inch forward. It’s best to have your big toe just under that raised toe cap.

Sole Quality

After a year of wearing these boots, my favorite aspect is that they are fitted with a soft and flexible Vibram sole. This gives these boots great traction compared to my long-time favorite rubber boot, the LaCrosee Grange. Additionally, the flexible sole still allows you to feel the environment underfoot which is important for being stealthy when hunting.

GumLeaf Field Welly Sole Flexibility
GumLeaf Field Welly Sole Flexibility

At first, I was worried that the sole of this boot was going to be too tall causing a high center of gravity, which would lead to ankle rolling. I was happy to find out that I liked these soles much more than I thought. My foot sits far enough down where my foot’s center of gravity is not a problem and I do not get the feeling that I will roll my ankle when side-hilling.

GumLeaf Field Welly Vibram Outsole
GumLeaf Field Welly Review: Vibram Outsole

Durability

When you put your hands on these boots for the first time you can tell right away they are made out of a higher content of rubber. The rubber is more supple and soft compared to cheaper boots with higher plastic/clay content.

Over the last year conducting wetlands work for my job, I’ve been able to test these boots through the dense prickly bushes and shrubs.

I found that these boots overall did pretty well, but not perfect. Thorns are a weakness for the softer more supple rubber. Thorns do make their way into the rubber and even drag through the rubber, creating non-leaking cuts.

I also ended up with a hole in the back of my boot about halfway up that I will need to patch.

GumLeaf Field Welly Thorns Cut Rubber
Non-Leaking Thorn Damage

There are some scuff marks from branches and bushes around the toe and ankle of the boot but I would expect this and is not concerning at this point. So it’s just the thorns that give these boots problems.

GumLeaf Field Welly Durability
Field Welly Scuff Marks from Field Testing

Overall, these boots are fairly durable, more durable than neoprene for sure. I would have been more impressed if the thorns had not cut into the boots.

In my experience, low-content rubber boots are more slippery and harder to puncture because they are more plastic and thus more durable. Thorns also don’t drag through the plastic rubber as easily, they’ll just slide off or break off instead.

Longevity

The rubber is still holding up well and has not cracked, I expect the rubber to last a lot longer based on the claims. However, I’m not sure it will matter if the boots keep getting cut up because I will need to replace them anyway. At the rate of being cut, I can see them lasting 1 or 2 more years. I guess it depends on how much AquaSeal I’m willing to use before I want to replace them. I’m hoping to keep updating this post through the life of these boots so people know how long they will last.

Keep in mind that I am using these boots every day for work and I am walking 5-10 miles per day through some of the toughest bushes and thorns. I will say When I know I’ll be working in bad thorn country I have opted to wear my Grange’s to maintain the longevity of the Field Welly’s and reduce the patching.

That said, most people will not be abusing their boots to the same degree. If I get 2 years out of them I would expect someone who uses them just on weekends and who will generally be avoiding nasty thorn bushes will last them longer. Just be careful of barbed wire!

Care & Suggestions

After getting the cuts on my boots I wanted to take measures to prevent the cuts from getting worse and leaking so I reached out to the owner at GumLeaf for suggestions. He recommended using AqualSeal FD so I bought some. Instead of just covering the cuts, I covered the entire toe of the boot.

GumLeaf Field Welly AquaSeal Application
AquaSeal FD Application

For me, the toe area takes a lot of abuse so I figured I’d give it extra protection. After the application, I was impressed with how it came out. I would even recommend putting some on a brand-new pair for protection. It looks a little ugly but that doesn’t bother me.

I may even put some around the ankle where wear tends to also occur. After a full year, the AquaSeal is holding up pretty well, it is starting to chip a little bit around the edges but nothing to be concerned about. I may do another application before this wetland field season.

Granger’s Rubber Boot Care

It is also suggested by GumLeaf to treat the high-content rubber boots with rubber boot oil called Granger’s Rubber Boot Care a few times per year to maintain the health of the rubber. This prevents the rubber from drying out and cracking in the long run. I have been doing this periodically and so far the rubber looks good. 

Review Conclusion

As of right now, the Gumleaf Field Wellys are my favorite rubber boots. For me, a tall lightweight rubber boot with good traction and good sole comfort is what I am looking for. The extra comfort and traction I get from these boots compared to the LaCrosse Grange’s that I normally wear is worth the decrease in durability and increase in price.

I’ve tried a lot of rubber boots as you’ll see in my blog post Best Rubber Hunting Boots or the YouTube video above. Nothing quite checks all of the boxes like the Field Wellys do.

I hope that with my addition of the AqualSeal FD, these boots will last me a minimum of 5 years. My reason for this is that my second favorite pair of rubber boots are the Lacrosse Grange boots. They last me 2 years on average for 100-120$. So, after 5 years the Field Wellys will have paid for themselves.

Even if they don’t last me as long and I end up paying a bit more I’m not going to be too disappointed. I’m willing to pay to replace these boots every two years just to have the comfort and traction of the Vibram sole.

10% Off Coupon Code

I’ve liked these boots so much that I reached out to GumLeaf USA to see if I could get a discount for my viewers. If you enter coupon code “JTOTen” at checkout you’ll receive 10% off these boots.

Thanks for reading, hopefully, you found this GumLeaf Field Welly Review helpful.

Questions & Community

If you have more questions about GumLeaf boots or questions in general you can ask them on Facebook. You may also find answers to your questions on my YouTube Channel.

9 Top-Rated Rubber Hunting Boots: Field-Tested & Reviewed

I live in rubber boots as a professional wetland scientist and outdoorsman living in the wet landscapes of Maine, thus having the best rubber boots is important. For this reason, I have put a lot of time into thinking about and trying different rubber boots. Over the years I’ve learned what makes rubber boots good and what makes rubber boots, well…not so good.

I also have first-hand experience seeing how different brands of rubber boots (myself and co-workers’) have held up with rugged use over the years. Collectively, between the rubber boots I’ve tried for work and hunting (Lacrosse Footwear, Le Chameau, GumLeaf, Muck Boots, Bogs) and observing coworkers’ boot performance (Cabela’s, Dryshod, XtraTuf), I’ve been able to identify the rubber boots perform the best over time and the reasons why they perform the best.

In this post, I share my top tips and suggestions when buying rubber boots, I’ve also included a spreadsheet at the end of the article with the height and weight of all the boots (that I personally weighed and measured).

Rubber vs Neoprene Boots, Which Are Better?

From my experience, rubber boots are superior to neoprene boots for most hunting applications.

Rubber Benefits

  • Less Bulky
  • Weight to Durability Ratio 
  • Better Durability vs Thorns & Dense Shrubs
  • Less Patching Required

Neoprene Benefits

  • Warmer (Better Calf Insulation)
  • Comfort (sometimes)
  • Lightweight

Best High Rubber Content Boots

Most rubber boots on the market today are made out of a mixture of rubber and clay filler. The clay filler that is added to these boots is what makes all of these boots crack over time. Some boots crack faster than others depending on the % of rubber it has.

A higher rubber content means that boots do not crack as easily and will last much longer than the average rubber boot. These high rubber content boots are mostly made in Europe and are shipped to the U.S. These are some of the best rubber boots you can buy.

High rubber content rubber boots are likely the best way to save the most money on rubber boots in the long run because should last at least 2x-3x longer because shouldn’t crack.

Gumleaf Field Wellys

The GumLeaf Field Wellys are handcrafted boots in Europe and are made of 85% real rubber which prevents cracking. I’ve used these boots for over a year now and the rubber is holding up well against cracking. However, the softer and more supple rubber is less durable than boots with higher clay/plastic content. They are still more durable than neoprene though.

That said, they are one of the most comfortable full-rubber boots that I’ve worn, their Vibram sole is very cushioning for long days on your feet. For me, the extra comfort and traction are worth the reduction in durability.

They are also surprisingly lightweight for a rubber 17.5-inch tall boot, weighing in at 1086g or 2.39 lbs per boot.

GumLeafUSA.com – 285$

You can check out my one-year-later review of these boots here: GumLeaf Field Welly Review

GumLeaf Field Welly Boot Review

Le Chameau Chasseur

These rubber boots are another high rubber content boot that is handcrafted in Europe. It takes 9 months of training before a professional boot maker can craft these boots. Only the best rubber and materials are used in these boots so that they will last. For me, the biggest downside was the weight. They are 18-inches tall and weigh in at 1462g or 3.22 lbs per boot. It was hard to justify the weight and price even though they were higher-quality materials. That said, a lot of people like them.

LeChameau.com – 500$

Le Chameau Rubber Hunting Boots with Leather

Best Rubber Only Hunting Boots (No-Neoprene)

The boots below have none or very little neoprene in them for those who like boots that are almost entirely made of rubber. I especially like these all-rubber boots for upland bird hunting because they are more durable than neoprene and can better withstand thorns.

Lacrosse Grange Boots

It’s tough to beat the Lacrosse Grange boots because no other companies have been able to develop an 18-inch tall boot this thin while allowing the boot to still be very durable. They’re also so lightweight (1048g or 2.31 lbs per boot) that you barely even notice them. Another huge benefit of this boot is that they have an ankle-tight fit so that your heel does not slip up and down in the heel pocket (which causes blisters in other boots).

Additionally, they are very low-profile, so it’s much harder to roll your ankle in these rubber boots than in those with taller traction. Because the traction is slim you can feel the ground underneath your foot when hunting. This allows you to walk much quieter in the woods because you can feel the sticks underneath your feet.

I hunt everything with these boots from deer, turkey, and waterfowl, to upland birds. They are versatile boots for a budget-friendly price.

LaCrosseFootwear.com – 100$

Best Rubber Hunting Boots
My go-to Rubber Hunting Boot. The Lacrosse Grange rubber boots are the best for lots of walking and being mobile.

Lacrosse Alphaburly Pro

The Alphaburly Pros are Lacrosse’s top-tier rubber hunting boots and are expensive. They have great traction and offer 3 levels of insulation that you can buy so you can stay warm no matter the weather or temperature. The sole is a bit stiff and tall making it not the most comfortable for some people (I don’t particularly like the feel of them). People with larger legs seem to like this boot more. They’re also relatively heavy boots, even the uninsulated boots are heavy (1290g or 2.84 lbs per boot). These aren’t the boots for me because of their weight and stiffness but I can see why people with larger legs might find them comfortable.

LaCrosseFootwear.com – 220$

Testing The LaCrosse Alphaburley Pro Rubber Boots

LaCrosse Alphaburley Pro Rubber Boots

Xtratuf Altitude Legacy Boot

Xtratuf is known for its boat shoes and boots. Recently, they’ve jumped into boots that are designed for land terrain. Their Altitude Legacy is their first boot model with this purpose in mind. They are a lot like the Grange boots but have better traction and are better suited for hunters with larger legs/calves. Just be aware that these boots are only 15 inches tall and are slightly heavier than the Grange. The rubber is nice and flexible adding to comfort. The rubber is thin and floppy though and not sure if it will be as durable as the Grange boots. The traction is also a little tall which can make stabilization when side-hilling a little trickier.

Xtratuf.com – 170$

Men's Altitude 15 in Legacy Boot, , large

Lacrosse Burly Air Grip Foam Insulated

Another excellent rubber hunting boot is the Lacrosse Burly boot with Air Grips. These boots are foam-insulated and provide a little more warmth at the cost of weight than the Grange boots. These boots weigh in at 1197g or 2.64 lbs per boot.  I bought these boots to replace the Grange and Field Welly’s once temperatures start to dip to the point where those boots aren’t warm enough to use.

They also make great winter hunting boots because the air grips offer good snow traction. These boots have many similar characteristics to the Grange boots such as durability, tight ankle fit, 18 inches tall, low profile, and you can still feel the environment underfoot with the air grips quite well.

LaCrosseFootwear.com – 120$

Lacrosse Burly Air Grips Foam Insulated Rubber Hunting Boots

Baffin Titan Rubber Pac Boots For The Coldest Weather

These Baffin Titan rubber boots are comfort-rated to -148ºF (-100ºC). They’re one of the warmest insulated hunting boots out there. They are perfect for hardcore hunters who hunt stationary for long periods (like in a treestand) in the cold winter weather months. Also, they are waterproof, breathable, scent-free, and have removable liners for extra insulation and warmth. Since they’re waterproof you can be sure your feet stay dry, which is essential for hunting in cold weather. Make sure to size up when you buy these. I am a size 11 and I had to buy size 14 boots for them to fit somewhat well.

They are big, heavy, and clumsy. They weigh in at 1873g or 4.13 lbs per boot making them the heaviest boot in this review, which makes sense because they are ultra insulated. These boots aren’t for walking around very far, they are for walking to your treestand and sitting in cold weather.

Baffin.com – 170$

Baffin Titan Warmest Rubber Boot For Hunting

Baffin Titan Liner
Baffin Titan Removable Liner

Best Neoprene Rubber Hunting Boots

Neoprene just does not last as long as a full rubber boot if you walk in the thick brushy country and through thorn bushes. Neoprene rubber boots are great if you can avoid these areas. They are often lightweight and comfortable if you buy a well-made pair. Here are a few of the best neoprene rubber boots:

Bogs Arcata Boots

Bogs Arcata rubber boots are the most comfortable rubber boots I have ever worn, they feel like socks. Their neoprene and 15-inch design makes them lightweight and have excellent traction for such a low-profile rubber boot. Because they are low-profile you don’t feel like you’re going to roll your ankle. They’re lined with 5mm of neoprene which makes them great for colder weather, they’re comfort rated down to -40ºF. This means you should be able to wear these while walking down to that temp. That said, I don’t know how much I trust this number they feel too thin at the rubber for that rating. Based on my experience they would be fine walking down to temps closer to 0º to -10º.

BogsFootwear.com – 160$

Bogs Arcata Neoprene Rubber Hunting Boots

Muck Boot Fieldblazer

Muck Boots are decent rubber boots and aren’t that expensive. If you prefer neoprene, these Fieldblazers are a pretty good choice although I prefer the Bog Arcata boots over them. The rubber on the Fieldblazers is stiff and thick, making it uncomfortable and not the easiest to feel the environment underfoot. Their traction is also not as good as the Arcata’s and is only slightly better than the LaCrosse Grange boots.

MuckBootCompany.com – 145$

Muck Boots Field Blazer Neoprene Rubber Hunting Boots

Rubber Boots Spec Spreadsheet

Heights and Weights of the rubber boots in this review
The Heights and Weights of the Rubber Boots in this Review

Tips When Buying Rubber Hunting Boots

Are Cheap Rubber Boots Worth The Money?

I have never seen a pair of rubber boots under 100$ last long. They are usually quick to crack because to keep costs low the rubber is mixed with higher clay content. Since they are made with a higher clay content they are also less flexible, making them less comfortable, and making you more prone to blistering.

If you’re going to buy a cheap pair of rubber boots I would only expect them to last 1 year, and they won’t be as comfortable as the more expensive brands. 

Tread Height and Rolling Ankles

It’s like comparing a Lamborghini vs a lifted truck. Which do you think is more susceptible to rolling? The Lamborghini is less likely to roll because it has a lower center of gravity. The same can be said for rubber boots, the lower your footbed is, the more stable your ankles will be.

If you buy rubber boots with tall treads/base you’re going to roll your ankles a lot more. A lower-profile rubber boot is a great way to go, especially for walking. This is why the Lacrosse Granges are excellent boots for walking.

If you’re not going to be walking as much a taller tread, although it may cause ankle rolling, likely will provide more insulation from the ground and you will likely have better traction because the tread can be deeper.

Keep Your Heel in the Heel Pocket to Avoid Blisters

If the rubber of a boot is flexible at the flex point just behind the toes, then it helps to keep your heel down in the heel pocket. If you have a stiff rubber boot it doesn’t flex easily at the flex point just behind the toes, when you roll your foot forward when walking, the stiff rubber at the flex point will spring the heel up and out of the heel pocket.

For this reason, I find the most comfortable rubber boots the boots that have softer more malleable rubber. This helps reduce heel blisters.

Snug Lightweight Boots to Avoid Blisters

Lightweight boots are also important for reducing heel blisters. If you have a bottom very bottom-heavy boot it’s going to pull the boot off your foot every time you roll your foot forward, especially if it’s not a snug fit. With a lightweight rubber boot, there is less weight to pull your heel out of the heel pocket, and with a snug fit, your heels will remain blister-free.

What Does Boot Comfort Rating Mean?

A comfort rating for boots will tell you the effective temperature that a pair of boots are designed to keep you comfortable with light usage.

This is important to know because there is a big difference between being stationary in a treestand and light usage.

For this reason, you will want a pair of hunting boots that are comfort rated much warmer than the temperatures you plan to hunt to ensure your feet stay warm in cold weather.

Repurpose Old Rubber Boots Into Rubber Slippers

When it is time to replace my boots sometimes I will repurpose them by making rubber slippers out of them. They’re great for keeping your feet dry on wet or snowy days.

Repurposing Old Rubber Boots to Make Waterproof Rubber Slippers
Repurposing Old Rubber Boots to Make Waterproof Rubber Slippers

YouTube Video Comparision

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High-Quality Deer Bedding Areas Explained

I define high-quality bedding areas as an area that provides excellent protection in the form of security from hunters and predators, so much so, that mature bucks feel safe and relaxed. However, in this definition, I include proximity and availability to does, food sources, and water. The more readily available these are, the higher the quality of the bedding area.

I’ve written many articles mentioning high-quality deer bedding areas without actually writing an article on the subject itself. That’s where this article comes in. In this article, we’ll be diving into just what high-quality bedding areas are and how you can use them to your advantage as a hunter.

Understanding what makes a deer bedding area high-quality isn’t complicated, but there are some key concepts to understand to put the deer bedding puzzle together. In my experience, I’ve found that five main factors influence where deer like to sleep:

  • Habitat Availability
  • Habitat Type
  • Hunting Pressure
  • Bucks vs Does
  • Time of Year

High-Quality Bedding Areas Components

Deer are looking to get the most bang for their buck (pun intended) when it comes to habitat availability, they don’t want to expend unnecessary energy. High-quality habitat will provide deer with everything they need to survive and more. This includes food, water, and shelter. This is convenient for deer because these three usually go hand-in-hand. Deer will be more likely to bed in or near areas with abundant high-quality habitat.

Deer Bedding and Food Sources

Food can be found in many forms, but having a high stem count, in other words, thick cover with vegetation at deer height provides deer with an abundance of food. Both bucks and does will bed near high-quality food sources, which makes food an important habitat component for determining where deer will bed during the day. They will bed slightly differently though, more on this later.

Deer Bedding and Water Sources

Although food is an important factor when narrowing down where deer bed, you will also want to take water into the equation. An area could have all of the food in the world, but if there is not a decent water source nearby then deer won’t be bedding close by. If an area has food and water then that’s a good start. You may find does and fawns inhabiting areas with just these two ingredients. Bucks are pickier, as we’ll get into later in this post.

Deer Like To Bed Down Within High-Quality Shelter

The third and most important tier that will help you determine where deer bed is shelter. Deer gravitate to thick areas to bed down during the day. This is because thick cover provides deer with the most security from hunters and other predators. It also reduces their stress levels.

They do not come in contact with people as often and feel safe because they are hidden. For this reason, habitats that have dense cover, plenty of nutritional food, and water nearby will likely have deer bedding in them or near them. Having dense cover is especially important for bucks because they prefer to bed in more concealed and isolated areas than does and fawns.

My article 21 Best Plants Deer Hunters Should Know is helpful for hunters to start learning what vegetation makes up high-quality deer habitat.

Photo Showing a Big Buck Bedded Down in a High-Quality Bedding Area
Trail Cam Photo Showing a Big Buck Bedded Down in a High-Quality Bedding Area

Deer Bed Down In These Habitats

Depending on the characteristics of the landscape, deer may lean towards either wetlands or uplands for bedding.

Deer Bed Down In Swamps

Swamps are a classic deer bedding area because the vegetation density in swamps/wetlands is usually much higher. This is also where more nutritionally dense food is found because water can break down and transport the nutrients more effectively. Because the vegetation is thick and offers high nutrition, deer will often seek the security cover of swamps. Deer will often spend most of their day bedded on high points or dry hummocks in swamps and then come out of the swamp at night to find better nearby forage.

Deer sleep in dense high-quality habitat during the day
A classic buck bedding area. Bucks will often bed at the edges of islands or on hummocks in cattail swamps like this.

A buck bed on a hummock in a swamp
A buck bed on a hummock in a swamp

Deer Bed on Mountains and Points of Ridges

In areas where wetlands are less prevalent, deer will bed in upland areas. These upland areas usually consist of mountain knobs/ridges. Deer will bed in these areas but will still make sure to keep the odds in their favor when they’re bedded down. Knobs on mountains or points of ridges will give deer a visual advantage. Also, deer will use the wind and thermals to their advantage more in these settings because they don’t have as much cover as they do in swamps. For this reason, deer will change where they sleep depending on which way the wind is blowing. 

Big Buck Bed in Snow on a Ridge
Big Buck Bed in Snow on a Ridge

Deer Bedding Habitat Can Be Found Using Google Earth Pro

You can often predict with great accuracy where deer will be bedding using Google Earth Pro Imagery. This is done by using aerial imagery, topography, and vegetation color. For more on how to do this, I’ve written an article and made a YouTube Video.

Hunting Pressure Will Change Deer Bedding Behavior

Urban & Suburban Deer Bedding

Hunting pressure has a huge effect on where deer bed. If hunting pressure is high deer will leave and bed in new areas that have less pressure. They’re not going to stick around in a high-stress environment. When hunting pressure is high deer may bed in very thick cover, so thick that 90% of humans would never think about going in there. Other times they may wander into a wildlife preserve where they’ve found they are safe. They may also hide in overlooked areas, like the thick cover right next to a parking lot. If you want to learn more about how deer react to hunting pressure, you’ll like this article I wrote about how to find pressured bucks.

Where Deer Bed In Remote Areas

There is a difference between where deer bed in remote forest settings versus in more developed areas. In the big woods, deer don’t go back to the same general area every day to bed down. They roam more and since they have a lot of habitat at their disposal, they will often bed down anywhere they feel like. They will still keep the odds in their favor when they do bed down because they are used to other predators, like coyotes, but they don’t have their go-to bedding areas like they do a lot of times in more urban environments.

Buck vs Doe Bedding Differences

Another key aspect of bedding areas is understanding where each gender (buck vs doe) will bed based on what supports them best energetically. For example:

Does Bed For Food

Does and fawns have no problem bedding in more open areas as long as there is high-quality food nearby. Does will bed as close to high-quality food as they can without completely exposing themselves. This might be right on the edges of thickets that border crop fields or lush field greenery.

Generally, crop fields are going to produce the lushest and most nutrient-dense foods. Does are often found in these areas, and is the reason why most farms have deer issues with deer.

Does need a lot of food because they’re either pregnant and need a lot of healthy nutrients for their soon-to-be fawns or their fawns are born and they need to provide food. This is why does are often found closer to food, they have adapted to risk some security for the reward of good food.

Does and fawns also have a different defense strategy. Since there will be a doe and a fawn or two, they have more eyes and noses to detect danger. You’ll often see the bed impressions they’ve left close together but all looking in a different direction.

Bucks Bed For Security

Bucks are less worried about food. They prioritize security over food. Of course, they still eat their share but they are only eating for one. Because of this bucks are often found farther back into the “thick stuff” or at least in a more secluded/overlooked area. They don’t want to be disturbed at all during the day. Swamps, points of ridges, or even knobs on top of mountains. Bucks will often be the last to the food sources because they feel safest with the cover of darkness.

A Swamp Buck Bed with Deer Hair In It
I have found bucks naturally gravitate high-quality bedding areas. Here is one example of a confirmed bedding area based on a hunch from aerial imagery.

Time Of Year And Deer Bedding Areas

The time of year also plays a big role in where deer will be bedded. As the season changes, deer change their bedding locations.

Food Sources

Bedding areas change throughout the year because of changes in food sources. As the months progress, some food sources die and others start to produce. To reduce the distance traveled, and to position themselves in areas with better food, deer will shift where they bed.

Winter Bedding Areas

Also, as temperatures drop deer need to start thinking about new places to bed to maximize their energy reserves for winter. For this reason, deer will often move in the colder months to bedding areas with more thermal cover, like evergreen trees.

Deer Wintering Areas

Deer wintering areas are a great example of the shift in deer bedding as the season progresses. In the cold northern parts of North America deer will actually migrate. Once snow-depth starts to make them uneasy, they will head straight for a Deer Wintering Area. These deer-wintering areas will be used year after year if food is abundant enough.

High-Quality Bedding Area Summary

As you can probably tell, the link between food, water, security, and time of year are the key factors that determine where deer sleep. Hopefully, you’ve been able to glean some new information about deer bedding. Below is a bullet summary:

Bucks Bed In:

  • Thick Cover
  • Isolated Areas
  • Deep In Swamps
  • Points of Ridges
  • Knobs on Mountains

Does & Fawns Bed:

  • Near Food Sources
  • Just Inside Thick Cover
  • Edges Of Swamps
  • Edges of Oak Flats & Oak Ridges
  • Near Clear Cuts
  • Edges Of Agriculture

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Maine Shed Hunting Tips – 30 Best Shed Hunting Tips For Mainers

Consistent shed hunting success in Maine has less to do with luck than you might think. These 30 shed hunting tips will enable you to get results by putting the odds in your favor in Maine. It might seem like shed hunting is like searching for needles in a haystack. However, some steps can be taken to increase success and make shed hunting a whole lot more enjoyable.

1. When Do Deer Shed Their Antlers In Maine?

One of the most important Maine shed hunting tips is to make sure you are searching at the right time. You can spend all the time in the world shed hunting, but if you’re searching at the wrong time your success will be reduced. Many factors influence when bucks will drop their antlers and it varies slightly from year to year. Here’s an interesting article about why bucks cast their antlers early by the Quality Deer Management Association: Causes of Early Antler Casting.

In Maine, bucks start dropping antlers around mid-December with most antlers off by mid-March. It makes the most sense to start shed hunting when the majority of antlers are off, and not before. Waiting until most antlers are off will make sure you have the best chances for success. 

Maine Deer Antler Sheds
A few of the nicer sheds I’ve found in Maine.

2. Don’t Push The Deer Too Early Or Too Often

Pushing deer off a property by looking for sheds too early, or by checking trail cameras too often will likely push bucks off a property. Before you shed hunt an area make sure you wait long enough into the season so that the majority of bucks have lost their antlers. You don’t want to be spooking bucks off a property if they’re still carrying antlers, this will make finding sheds more difficult.

Deer in the winter are in pretty consistent patterns. Following established trails is simply more efficient than creating new paths through the snow. It allows deer to move more quickly and with less effort, which is crucial for conserving energy during the harsh winter months when resources are limited. If you pressure the deer too soon they may change their patterns. By not pressuring the deer you have a better chance of finding sheds on the main trail.

3. Use Trail Cameras

Trail cameras are a great way to determine when bucks in an area are losing their antlers. To do this effectively, leave your cameras out after hunting season is over.

Being careful not to spook deer out of the area, check your trail cameras a couple of times between late January and mid-March. Once you start noticing most bucks have lost their antlers you can determine when to start shed hunting. If you’re after a specific buck’s sheds, trail cameras are a great way to determine when that buck has shed his antlers.

Trail cameras are a great way to determine when bucks in your area are losing their antlers.
Trail cameras are a great way to determine when bucks in your area are losing their antlers.

4. Work hard But More Importantly Work Smart

This is one of the best shed hunting tips in my opinion. A lot of time and hard work can be spent shed hunting with little to no success. To have the most success, it is important to shed hunt smart. This means maximizing the amount of time you are in high percentage areas and spending the least amount of time as possible in low percentage areas.

Shed hunting is very much a numbers game. The more time you put yourself in the high percentage areas the better your chances will be of finding sheds. These areas include food sources, late-season bedding, and travel corridors between these two areas. Late-season food sources and bedding areas are explained in greater detail below.

Also, it’s important to know if bucks are wintering in a particular area. Don’t waste your time in areas where bucks are not because the odds of you finding sheds are greatly reduced. Trail cameras are a great way to know if bucks are using an area and thus worthwhile to scout an area.

5. Find The Late-Season Food

Cedar is a great late season food source. Stands of cedar can be great places to find sheds.
Cedar is a great late-season food source in Maine. Stands of cedar can be great places to find sheds.

Focus on where deer are spending the most time. One area deer spend a disproportionate amount of time in is feeding areas. The late season is energetically expensive for whitetails, especially in Maine because of the harsh winters. This means deer will be feeding very heavily during this time of year. Finding food sources that are being used during the late season will greatly increase your odds of finding sheds.

You might find some great sign right behind people’s houses. This is because deer will eat planted bushes behind people’s houses and sometimes people feed deer behind their houses too which are hotspots and using have heavily traveled trails from their bedding areas.

6. Find The Late-Season Bedding

Shed hunting in bedding areas is a great way to find sheds. The dense vegetation in the distance provided good bedding cover.
Bedding areas are a great way to find sheds. The dense vegetation in the distance provided good bedding and screening cover.

Late-season bedding areas are another great place to find sheds. In an attempt to reduce energy expenditure at this time bucks are looking to keep as warm as possible. Bedding areas that provide good thermal cover are great places for bucks to bed during the frigid winter months. By focusing your efforts in late-season bedding areas your odds of finding a shed will be much higher than aimlessly walking through the woods hoping to stumble upon a shed with no plan.

7. Travel Corridors

Highly traveled corridors are also great places for shed hunting. You can see old and new tracks on the travel corridor.
Highly traveled corridors are also great places to find sheds. You can see old and new tracks in this travel corridor.

Areas between bedding and feeding areas also provide the potential to hold sheds. Once you have determined the bedding and feeding areas search the area in-between where deer are traveling. There is a good chance a buck could have knocked an antler off in his travels between the two destination areas. Fence lines, streams, or any area where bucks have to jump within travel corridors offer great opportunities for finding sheds. The force of jumping increases the likelihood that an antler may be knocked off.

8. Slow Down In Prime Areas

When you get into high-quality areas (bedding, feeding, travel corridors) make sure you take your time and slow down. It is really easy to miss sheds. These areas provide your best chance of finding them, so go slow and double-check every stick to make sure it is not a piece of an antler.

Speeding up in areas that aren’t high odds and slowing down in prime areas is a good way to maximize efficiency. 

9. Virtual Scouting/E-Scouting

Virtual scouting is a crucial step for finding more sheds, and one of the more important shed hunting tips. Using aerial imagery you can often determine bedding areas, feeding areas, and travel corridors. You can do this without even getting off the couch!

Of course, e-scouting will only get you so far but it is a good preliminary step to put the odds in your favor when shed hunting on new properties.

By making a list of areas that look good to you based on the tools you can use on Google Earth you keep yourself in higher quality areas. Virtual scouting will save you a lot of time and energy. Google Earth and Google Maps are my favorite tools for virtual scouting. To learn more about scouting deer using these platforms check out my post: 15 Best Tips for Scouting Deer Using Google Earth.

10. Go To Multiple Properties

After you have thoroughly scouted the high percentage areas of a property don’t waste your time scouting the low percentage areas afterward. Once you have scouted the high-quality areas of a property, leave and scout a new property. This will maximize the time you spend in high percentage areas, which will overall increase shed hunting success.

11. Track Your Path Using A GPS

I like to use a GPS App on my phone to track my path. Being able to see where you have gone will allow you to ensure that you are not looking into areas you have already covered and will show you areas you may have missed. A phone GPS will make you more efficient at searching properties.

12. GPS Mark Locations Of Sheds

Deer, in general, are habitual creatures and tend to use the same areas at the same time each year. For this reason, places where you’ve found sheds in the past are likely to have sheds in the future. By marking the locations of the sheds you will start to develop a database of areas where you have found sheds. This information can be used to improve future shed hunting excursions.

Big Maine Buck Shed Found During Shed Hunting
Big Maine Buck Shed Found During Shed Hunting

13. Look For A Second Antler

Often when bucks lose one antler the other is not far away. Bucks don’t like the imbalance of having one antler, it makes their head feel awkward. For this reason, they will try to knock the other anter off. Spend time looking in the areas where you found the first shed. There is a good chance you will find a matching set! Using a GPS to mark the first antler and then searching a grid around that first antler could be beneficial.

14. Bring Surveyor Flagging

Surveyor flagging is a very bright-colored ribbon. This ribbon can be used to flag trees over sheds that you have found. The reason to flag sheds is because, as mentioned above, many times bucks lose their second antler not far from their first. For this reason, it can be helpful to place bright-colored flagging over the area where you found the first shed.

I like to bring surveyor flagging with me when I'm shed hunting. This way I can mark the locations of sheds that I've found and can refer back to the area if needed.
I like to bring surveyor flagging with me when I’m shed hunting. This way I can mark the locations of sheds that I’ve found and can refer back to the area if needed.

When searching for the second shed it is easy to forget the exact location where you found the first. Flagging will make it so you can easily go back and refer exactly where you found the first shed. Being able to refer back to where you found the first shed will allow you to make another game plan for searching the area for the second shed.

15. Stop Scouting, Start Shed Hunting

Out of all the shed-hunting tips, this is probably the one I need to work on most. When shed hunting it is best to forget about scouting. This is still really difficult for me to do. I’ve trained myself to look at tracks and rubs when I’m in the woods during hunting and scouting season.

If your sole reason for shed hunting is to find sheds, scouting will be counterproductive. Shed hunting requires your full attention. By keeping your eyes and mind focused on sheds you will have the most success.

16. Think Small Win Big

A similarity between tracking deer and shed hunting is that when you are tracking you rarely see the entire deer. More often than not it’s an ear twitch or a tail wag that gives the deer away. The same can be said for shed hunting. Instead of looking for an entire shed, look for parts of sheds. Often the entire shed won’t be visible, it could be buried under mud or snow with just the tines sticking up.

17. Shed Hunting With A Dog

Dogs are very effective for finding sheds. Because dogs use scent as their primary tool for finding sheds they can cover ground faster and more effectively. They also can find sheds in the ‘thick stuff’ which is useful for finding those sheds back in the dense bedding areas. If you’re curious about how to use dogs for shed hunting check out; The Basics of Shed Dog Training and The Best Shed Hunting Dog Breeds.

Even if your dog isn’t trained to find sheds, taking your dog along with you is a great way to have more fun when shed hunting.

18. South Side Of Ridges

The south sides of the ridges get the most sunlight. For this reason, bucks like to bask in the rays during the cold months to warm up. Bucks also like to bed under small evergreen trees for thermal protection on these south-facing ridges for additional warmth and protection. Make sure to check under these evergreen trees on the south sides of the ridges, you might be in for a welcome surprise. Additionally, south-facing ridges are the first to melt. Less snow means sheds will be less buried offering better opportunity.

19. Bring Binoculars

Binoculars are a useful tool for scanning fields and for confirming a visual on a potential shed in the distance. This saves you from walking up to every bleached stick or white rock. Binoculars are also nice just to have to observe deer if you bump any, and for observing wildlife in general.

20. Bring Safety Glasses & Sunglasses

The glare from snow during sunny late winter or spring days can make finding sheds difficult and can give you a headache. Safety sunglasses reduce glare, making shed hunting easier and more enjoyable. I prefer polarized sunglasses to help cut down on the glare.

Additionally, bucks often drop their sheds in thick bedding areas such as swamps. Safety glasses/sunglasses will allow you to plow through thick brush without taking a stick to the eye. You can get them pretty cheap on Amazon. You can get a pair of polarized glasses for around 15-25$.

21. Make A Day Out Of Shed Hunting

Bringing everything you need to make a day out of shed hunting is a great way to improve your odds of finding sheds. Bringing food, water, or anything else you might enjoy will ensure you are as comfortable as possible. Hunger is very distracting and often causes you to head home early. Having snacks out in the woods will satisfy your hunger and allow you to spend more time in the woods. The more time you can spend in the woods, the better your chances are of finding sheds.

22. Mental Focus

Having the right state of mind plays a big role in shed hunting success. The minute you stop concentrating on what you’re looking for is the moment a shed slips by unnoticed!

23. Discouragement Prevention

It’s easy to get discouraged after long days without finding any sheds. Shed hunting isn’t easy. It takes a lot of walking in the right places to find them. Some great ways to keep from getting discouraged is to bring friends or bring a dog. Having company makes shed hunting more enjoyable. Also, you can add a competition component to it, which turns shed hunting into a game that boosts spirits and helps to prevent discouragement.

24. Make Sure Bucks Are In The Area

Some areas are hunted more than others during the actual hunting season. Bucks in heavily hunted areas just aren’t as numerous as they are in lower hunted areas. Also, a lower percentage of bucks can make it to an older age class. A lower age class means sheds will be smaller than unpressured areas where bucks can grow to maturity.

Lower buck densities combined with smaller sheds make finding sheds in heavily hunted areas more difficult. Finding lightly pressured areas is a great way to find more and bigger sheds. Areas that do not allow hunting or have limited hunting seasons could be a good bet for finding more sheds.

Shed hunting in highly hunted areas has a lower probability than shed hunting in areas that have lower hunting pressure.
Maine Shed Hunting Tips: Heavily hunted areas will result in a lower probability of finding sheds than areas that have low hunting pressure.

25. Set Realistic Expectations Depending On Where You Live

Everyone wants to find those giant sheds. But you have to be realistic depending on where you live. Not every area will be able to produce Iowa-sized racks. Make sure you set your expectations based on what your area holds for bucks to avoid disappointment. By setting realistic expectations you will be able to accurately visualize what size sheds to search for when shed hunting.

26. Dress Accordingly

Having the proper attire when shed hunting helps to keep you in the woods longer. Shed hunting requires a lot of walking, and walking at variable paces. For this reason, you want to wear clothing that will keep you warm when you’re walking slowly in high opportune areas.

That being said, you don’t want to dress so warm that when you have to pick up the pace you overheat and sweat. Getting overheated and sweating will drain your energy and make you want to head back to the truck. Additionally, if you start sweating you’ll become cold when you have to slow down in the high opportune areas.

I am a big advocate for wool clothes for shed hunting. Wool clothes keep you warm when wet, they are water-resistant, fast-drying, warm, and quiet. You may want to bring extra gloves if it’s rainy or there is snow melting off trees. Having an extra pair of gloves is nice after wearing wet gloves for a while.

27. Bring A Backpack

Bringing a backpack is very helpful. You’ll want a backpack to put your lunch in and any other useful things you might want to bring. Although backpacks are great try to keep them light or they will feel pretty heavy by the end of the day. Some things to throw in your backpack could be a compass, GPS, extra gloves, survey flagging, sunglasses, lunch, and of course for putting sheds in!

28. Shed Hunt On Rainy Days

Don’t let poor weather hold you back! When antlers get a sheen of water on them they tend to shine and glisten. For this reason, light rainy days or the day after a rainy day is a great time to be out looking for sheds. Additionally, overcast rainy days block a lot of sun which reduces glare making for good shed hunting. Additionally, after rain, the snow around sheds has melted, making them even more obvious.

29. Practice

It can be helpful to bring old sheds with you and place them at random locations at the beginning of a shed hunt to train your eyes.
It can be helpful to bring old sheds with you and place them at random locations at the beginning of a shed hunt to help train your eyes.

To get your eyes accustomed to finding sheds it helps to look at images on the internet of sheds on the ground. It is also a good idea to bring some older sheds with you and place them in random locations at the beginning of the shed hunt. Then walk about and observe the sheds to train yourself on what to look for. Although this sounds a little odd, it does help.

30. Shed Hunt In Deer Wintering Areas

In the northern regions deer congregate together in deer yards. These deer yards are found in areas that provide good shelter from the snow. These areas consist of dense softwood stands that block a lot of snowfall. Because of the sheltering effect from the softwoods stands the snow depth is much less.

These areas are great places to check for sheds because deer are congregated in these deer wintering areas. It is not recommended to continually disturb deer that are in these deer wintering areas in the middle of winter. Bumping deer in these areas at this time causes them to expend needed energy and creates stress. Energy is valuable to deer at this time because they need all they can get to fight the elements and evade predators. When conditions improve in early Spring is a great time to start looking for sheds in deer wintering areas.

Conclusion

Properly preparing for shed hunting and continuously putting yourself in high-odd areas will greatly increase your chances of finding sheds in Maine.

These 30 Maine shed hunting tips combined with hard work will have you collecting more sheds than ever before. For additional/interesting information on sheds and shed hunting tips check out these articles:

The QDMA: 6 Things You Can Learn From Shed Antlers (And 1 You Can’t)

The Portland Press Herald: The Search For Sheds Has Become a Popular Pastime

Outdoor Life: Bone Guide: How to Estimate the Price of Shed Antlers

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How To Scout Big Bucks In July | Scouting Summertime Whitetails

In this post, I explain how to scout deer in July. Hunting preparations in July can mean the difference between success and failure this fall. It’s important to understand whitetail movement throughout the year to be ahead of the game.

Whitetails transition between summer and fall habitat. Knowing how to scout in July with the fall transition in mind makes all the difference.

How To Scout Bucks In July

Trail Cameras

At this time of year, you can finally start to identify individual bucks, so I put my trail cameras out in July at the latest. I have a dozen or so trail cameras and add to my collection every year. These trail cameras will be placed both in newly scouted areas and in previously determined hotspots from years past.

how to scout deer in July using trail cameras

Often, I start putting trail cameras out at the beginning of June. Trail cameras are one of the best ways to scout during July. This gives me adequate time to get all of my trail cameras out by the 4th of July.

The cameras that are set out before July are only to identify any camera malfunctions that may be occurring. In my experience, this has worked very well for me. Trail cameras that have been out for about a month will be checked around the 4th of July.

This will ensure cameras are running properly and that there are no obstructions for the rest of the all-important month of July when real data collection begins.

I have also been experimenting with checking trail cameras less and less because I do feel like it can have very negative consequences. Often I will leave regular trail cameras out for the entire season. Or even better, I’ve also started using cell cameras to keep my disturbance virtually non-existent.

The downsides are that most cell cameras don’t have a big enough battery to last from June through December and they cost money every month. I place cell cameras in September so they will last through the hunting season. This isn’t ideal since it’s so close to the hunting season but I try to pick my days to set them when the weather is dry and windy or rainy.

Newly Scouted Areas

In newly scouted areas where I have no previous data, my main goal is to determine the caliber of buck/bucks that made the previous year’s sign. If I start getting pictures of a target buck I will leave the camera in this location, checking the camera at most once a month. I will then start to put the pieces together to determine where I think this target buck is spending most of his time. Then I will pick the tree I will hunt out of.

Previously Scouted Areas

In areas I’ve historically seen, or captured big bucks on trail camera I will attempt to re-capture them to see if they made it through the season and are using the same core area as the previous year. If they are still using the same core area this will likely be a good place to hunt in the fall. Additionally, I will be able to see if new bucks have moved into the area.

High-Quality Bedding Areas

It is important to note that the cameras I am placing are almost always near high-quality bedding areas. High-quality bedding areas often hold particular bucks in their core area until the rut. Pictures of these bucks in July means they will likely still be in the area come October.

Big bucks not near high-quality bedding areas are less likely to stay once the hunting season begins. A previous post How To Place Trail Cameras For Mature Bucks goes into more detail on high-quality bedding areas and will help you succeed in trail camera placement.

The movement will likely change as hunting season approaches. Pictures in July will often reveal many daylight pictures of bucks when compared to the hunting season. Daylight pictures are never a bad thing, but I am not so much interested in the time of day bucks are showing up on camera. Instead, I am looking for the frequency. This tells me how close I am to a buck’s core bedding area.

Boots On The Ground Scouting

Although scouting in July is getting late in the game and you risk the potential of permanently bumping deer out of an area, I still think boots-on-the-ground scouting in July is worth it.

That said, it is harder because the buck sign from last year is harder to see, so you have to pay closer attention. You can still find excellent spots in July. Additionally, in some areas, bucks haven’t moved from their summer areas to their fall areas so you’re not disturbing much in that instance.

I focus my efforts on finding big buck rut sign in the shape of big rubs and scrapes and their proximity to a high-quality bedding area. I usually refrain from going into bedding areas to keep stress levels at a minimum in July. Once I find the sign I’m looking for I will hang a trail camera.

I may or may not hunt that spot in the upcoming hunting season. My trail camera will tell me if it will be worthwhile the following year. If the property has excellent deer sign and I want to prepare a tree, I do it that day. Accomplishing everything in one day eliminates repeated invasions which keep stress levels to a minimum.

Scout For Bucks In July By Glassing Fields

Bucks are taking in as much nutrients as possible to put on weight and antler growth in July. Glassing fields during this time has proven to be a pretty successful tactic for me in recent years and is one of the best ways to scout deer in July.

Bucks are much more relaxed from the lack of hunting pressure and the increase of cover from summer foliage. I try to capitalize on bucks having their guard down. On roads that don’t get a lot of traffic dawn and dusk seem to be the most successful times for glassing. I like this scouting tactic because it requires little effort and can produce a big reward.

Scout deer in July by glassing fields with high-quality food sources.
Scout deer in July by glassing fields with high-quality food sources.

Scout For Bucks By Shining Fields

I prefer shining fields at night over glassing fields at dawn and dusk. Both can work well but in my experience, the biggest bucks seem to like having the cover of darkness. Mature bucks know from experience that when they show themselves during daylight people/hunters driving by stop to check them out.

Being the weary creatures they are, mature bucks will only tolerate so much of that stress. I have found bigger bucks learn to avoid that stress completely, opting to only enter fields in the dark. I have had a lot better luck seeing big bucks at night than daylight or dusk. Sometimes they are not far from the road and when I pick my flashlight up I am surprised how close I can find myself to a big buck.

how to scout deer in July by shining at night
Scout deer in July by shining at night where legal.

You’ve Located A Big Buck In July, Now What?

When I see a big buck in a field whether glassing or shining I will mark the location in my phone on a GPS App. When I get home I will analyze the surrounding landscape and see if I can identify any key features that may point me in his direction. To learn how I do this check out: 15 Best Tips For Scouting Deer Using Google Earth.

To keep stress levels at a minimum I will do a quick but precise scouting mission to see if I can figure out where bucks in the area are spending most of their time. For example, if I see a lot of old rubs and scrapes from year’s prior I will find a tree to hunt out of for the hunting seasons and place a trail camera. Depending on how close to the season it is, I will wait a month at least before returning to check the camera.

July Is For Practice & Preparation

Routine

When I was younger I only gave myself a week or two to prepare for the upcoming season. Being out of practice going into the hunting season cost me a few deer. When I got tired of failing I adopted a routine that works for me. My routine leaves me feeling confident with my equipment for the hunting season and confidence is key.

I start my routine once there is enough daylight after I get home from work to shoot my bow outside, which is usually after daylight savings time around the first week of March.

My routine consists of shooting at least a dozen arrows or so every day after work to keep my focus and strength up for the hunting season. Most times I end up shooting more.

Gear Preparations In July

This is the time of year to start thinking about gear. When I think back at the previous hunting season I ask myself; what worked? What didn’t work? Do you wish you had anything? What broke and needs fixing?…etc.

Asking these kinds of questions and making the improvements sooner rather than later allows me to make the upcoming season less stressful. For me personally, when things don’t go as planned I tend to get stressed out (like metal clanking metal together when climbing up a tree in a bedding area). I like to enjoy myself on the stand, after all, it is supposed to be fun! Making sure I have the right equipment and gear adjustments completed early has helped me to create a less stressful and seamless hunting experience.

Conclusion

You can still do a lot of scouting in July to put the odds in your favor for the hunting season in the fall. Boots on the ground scouting is a great options, but does have some cons being so close to the hunting season. My preference is to let my trail cameras, binoculars, and flashlights do the heavy lifting where possible.

While these are doing the heavy lifting I focus my efforts on getting in shape and preparing for the upcoming hunting season. I hope this post has helped you be more effective in scouting deer in July.

Many of the concepts for scouting deer in July apply to the other summer months as well. Check out the next post in this series: How to Scout Deer in August.

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How To Place Trail Cameras For Mature Bucks

Trail cameras are expensive, and if you’re like me you are trying to get the most out of each trail camera you own. Proper placement is necessary to do this, especially for mature bucks. There are two types of trail camera placement in my opinion, inventory placement and bedding area placement. I go into detail on both.

Inventory Trail Camera Placement For Mature Bucks

The first method is inventory placement of trail cameras. Inventory placement is the placement of trail cameras over food sources, bait, deer trails, rubs, scrapes, or a combination of these, basically any location that is not bedding. Inventory placement can work well to inform you if a mature buck is in the general area. Finding a mature buck to hunt is in my opinion the hardest part. Getting a few trail camera pictures of him means he’s most likely living nearby (outside the rut).

I’ve noticed when hunters start getting pictures of a mature buck they get excited and become content with their camera placement, ultimately leaving their trail cameras in the same spot in hopes that they will get more pictures of the particular buck. Usually, hunters will get a few more pictures of this buck until the season changes and the buck moves core areas.

Placing Trail Cameras and Buck Seasonal Shifts

The biggest problem I had when placing trail cameras in inventory locations was bucks disappearing from their core areas as hunting season approached. This frustrated me because I took extreme precautions to avoid spooking deer when checking trail cameras, so I was fairly confident that was not the issue. I found it especially difficult to hunt a particular buck.

What I noticed was I would get pictures of hitlist bucks fairly consistently until about the first weeks of September when they started to shed their velvet, then they would vanish. The funny thing was they would be right back in the same spot at the exact same time the following year, only to vanish again before the hunting season. Only a small percentage of bucks I got pictures of would stay in their core area into the hunting season.

Above you will see photos taken of big bucks in the summer. In both years the trail camera was placed over a well-used deer trail. Although camera’s exact placement changed these pictures were all taken in the same spot. These pictures show the same two bucks during the summer of 2016 and 2017.

Bucks in this area show up at the same time every year in the summer but then vanish in August every year (The date and time on the photos is not correct, I was able to figure out the exact date and time and have inserted the correct date and time as text below each photo.) “Buck 1” shows up within 3 days of the previous year. “Buck 2” shows up within the same hour as he did the previous year. This year I will have to move my cameras and figure out where these bucks are bedding.

Place Trail Cameras Where Bucks Will Be During Hunting Season

Unfortunately, inventory trail camera placement will likely not be where a mature buck feels comfortable during daylight hours during the hunting season. More often than not when hunting season rolls around bucks aren’t using food sources, bait, deer trails, rubs, and scrapes during daylight hours, especially if you’re hunting an area with hunting pressure. As hunting pressure increases daylight movement tends to decrease. Of course, there are exceptions to every rule but in general, I have seen less success when I leave cameras over inventory areas throughout the hunting season.

If you have located a mature buck using inventory trail camera placement that is fantastic, finding a mature buck is the hardest part, but now you need to take it to the next step. Where is this buck likely spending his time in daylight during the hunting season? Bedding areas.

Trail Cameras and High-Quality Bedding Areas

I felt that if I could just figure out why a small percentage of bucks remained in the same area for longer periods I could put myself in similar situations and start capitalizing on particular bucks. After a few seasons of brainstorming, increasing my arsenal of trail cameras, and testing hypotheses I started to notice a pattern; my cameras, even though they were over inventory placement they, by chance, were on the border of bedding areas. Cameras at the edge of high-quality bedding areas were more likely to keep bucks in their core areas longer into the season.

This is how I first discovered high-quality bedding areas. I define high-quality bedding areas as an area that provides excellent protection in the form of security from hunters and predators, so much so, that mature bucks feel safe and relaxed. However, in this definition, I include proximity and availability to does, food sources, and water. The more readily available these are, the higher the quality of the bedding area.

From trail camera observations I found that the higher the quality of the bedding area the more likely I would be to get pictures of a particular buck into the hunting season.

Big Buck In High-Quality Habitat September
Big Buck In High-Quality Habitat September

Big Buck In High-Quality Habitat In October
Big Buck In High-Quality Habitat In October

Big Buck In High-Quality Habitat Early November
Big Buck In High-Quality Habitat Early November

Big Buck In High-Quality Habitat Mid November
Big Buck In High-Quality Habitat Mid-November

Bucks Spend The Most Time In Bedding Areas

The more I thought about this the more it made sense. High-quality bedding areas are where mature bucks feel safe which is where they will be spending most of their time during most times of the year. Additionally, even if deer seasonal patterns change due to food availability, loss of foliage, testosterone levels increasing… etc, mature bucks will likely want to remain in the same high-quality bedding area because it is where they feel secure.

The highest quality bedding area on a property can likely hold multiple bucks depending on its size. These bucks will want to take advantage of its safety and compete for the safest areas in that bedding area. Mature bucks will push satellite bucks out to maintain the highest quality bedding areas for themselves. Camera placement near high-quality bedding like this increases the odds of catching dominant bucks and respectable satellite bucks on camera during daylight into the hunting season.

From trail camera placement trial and error I have found that buck bedding that provides food, water, and does nearby gives bucks less of a reason to leave in September and into the hunting season. Do I still have bucks disappear on me in September? Absolutely. Each situation and buck is different but the rate at which they disappear has reduced.

It is important to note that I rarely intrude on a buck’s bedding area when placing trail cameras, as this will likely result in the buck leaving his core area or becoming nocturnal before the season starts. Instead, I put my trail cameras as close to the bedding as possible but where I am confident that the buck will not be alerted in any way by sight or sound. I assume some of my scent may be left behind but I take precautions mentioned below to minimize this as much as possible.

The one exception is if I place a camera deep within a bedding area in the spring, during spring scouting, and leave it there throughout the entire hunting season. I will only check this camera after the hunting season has ended. The information on this camera will help me plan for future hunts because I will be able to see what days and times bucks are moving through the bedding area.

High quality bedding location: I had this buck (above) on camera from the beginning of June through the middle of August. Unfortunately, I forgot to turn my camera on for the last check of the season. However, on October 13th, 2017 I had a deer walk by at 20 yards, 5 minutes after quitting time. I couldn’t see him, but when I got out of my tree I smelt what was unmistakably the smell of tarsal gland. I’d bet a lot of money it was him. The location of this camera was just on the outside of a thick winterberry and alder swamp, this buck made many appearances.

When To Place Trail Cameras For Mature Bucks

Most of my scouting takes place just after snowmelt in spring. When I find a buck bedding area from scouting I will come back and place a trail camera at the edge of the bedding in May. To learn how I scout for buck bedding check out my article Finding Pressured BucksI like to put my cameras out in May.

I check my trail cameras about once every two months preferably during windy or rainy weather conditions. This way I leave almost no evidence that I was in the area and the bucks have a minimal chance of catching onto me. I always wear rubber boots and use scent-free wipes to clean my cameras when I’m done setting them up. I also am quick to download pictures and get out of the area to reduce scent contamination.

If I am not getting any mature bucks on camera after two months I will adjust accordingly. Sometimes I’ll move the camera and other times I will leave a camera out over the hunting season to see what it turns up if I have a good feeling about an area. Sometimes there’s not much activity in an area until the hunting season starts. Other times I will move the camera to another bedding location I feel has potential.

I will continue to check my trail cameras until one month out from the season opener, sometimes later if there is really bad weather that lets me sneak in undetected. This gives the area time to cool down before hunting season.

There is a balance between checking cameras close to the season and having high-quality information telling you that a mature buck is moving in daylight close to the start of the season. During this check, I wear full scent-lok clothing that has been carefully stored to minimize scent.

Trail Cameras And The Rut

I have found that during the peak rut most bucks have left their core areas in search of does, making it much harder to capitalize on a particular buck. For this reason, I won’t check my trail cameras again for the rest of the hunting season. I let trail cameras collect valuable data that I can use and apply to future hunts.

Being that the buck I am after is most likely gone during this time there is no reason to check cameras. Instead, during this time of year I rely on last year’s trail camera dates and times. Deer are habitual creatures and often visit areas at the same time and dates each year.

I will use the dates of rutting buck pictures from the previous year and use them to determine when to hunt during the present year. This way I do not contaminate my hunting locations with my scent from checking trail cameras. I don’t want to be checking my cameras during the season because as the season progresses and hunting pressure increases bucks will become much more sensitive to human presence. Checking trail cameras during the season is a great way to ruin a spot.

Conclusion

If you are a hunter who is having trouble capitalizing on trail camera pictures of bucks then I recommend you try the method above on how to place trail cameras. Although placing trail cameras near bedding areas can be risky, I have found it to be worth the risk with the proper precautions. I hope you can take away from what I have learned and apply it to your trail camera strategy to capitalize on mature bucks.

Buck Bedding Area Trail Camera Placement
A classic buck high-quality bedding area. Bucks will often bed at the edges of islands or on hummocks in cattail swamps like this. They feel secure in these areas, most hunters don’t want to walk through this thick stuff and it is difficult for the ones that do to sneak up on them. A trail camera set up at the edge of a bedding area like this has the potential to capture a big buck.

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